Antioxidants with proven efficacy and elastin-conserving vitamin C-A new approach to free radical defense.

BACKGROUND: This paper describes the background research and validation related to the formulation of a novel antioxidant product. Two defined outcomes were sought. Firstly, a combined efficacy of antioxidant ingredients in quenching free oxygen radicals. Secondly, the investigation into whether a vitamin C derivative sodium salt was elastin conserving in contrast to current vitamin C/l-ascorbic acid variations that have been reported to negatively affect elastin constitution and regeneration.

MATERIALS AND METHODS: A leading l-ascorbic acid antioxidant available on the market was compared with the experimental new product in two studies. In the first experiment, the products were compared to assess their antioxidant properties. The evaluated products TOPICAL ANTIOXIDANT 1 and TOPICAL ANTIOXIDANT 2 were applied to human skin cultures (25-30 mg/cm2 ) for a total of 72 h of treatment and exposed to oxidative stress. The generation of free radicals was semi-quantitatively assessed by measuring the fluorescence intensity of the deacetylation and oxidation of the probe dichlorofluorescein diacetate (DCFH-DA). In the second experiment, an ex vivo skin model (derived from patients undergoing facelift procedures) was used to assess elastin preservation. Three skin explants were topically subjected to the two formulations daily for 7 days. The skin was then prepared and fixed for immunofluorescent assessment after staining with CD44 and tropoelastin antibodies. Images were then analyzed using ImageJ.

RESULTS: A full description of the different components selected for the new formulation is presented. In the first study, the experimental formulation performed with absolute equivalence to the comparator in its radical quenching capacity; both showed extremely effective antioxidant function. In the second study, the comparator negatively affected the existing elastin with areas of breakdown and diminished staining. In contrast, the new formulation showed good conservation of healthy elastin in all sections demonstrating elastin preservation.

CONCLUSION: A new antioxidant formulation was carefully designed with multiple actives that show an equivalent antioxidant capacity to a leading product on the market. More importantly, the vitamin C component shows direct elastin conservation and improvement as opposed to the comparator, which had negative effects on elastin preservation. This is in keeping with little-known literature reports on vitamin C and its negative effects on elastin and validates the use of a sodium salt derivative, which appears to have protective effects on elastin. These findings support the overall regenerative extracellular matrix changes seen with TriHex® technology in other products.