In vitro water resistance testing using SPF simulation based on spectroscopic analysis of rinsed sunscreens.

OBJECTIVE: Water resistance retention (WRR) is the third performance attribute of sunscreens. Today, the standardized method for testing WRR is performed in vivo. For screening purposes, an in vitro method is highly preferable. Up to now, however, available methods have failed in accurately predicting in vivo WRR. In this study, we examine a novel in vitro approach aimed at enhancing in vivo prediction of WRR.

METHODS: We investigated two approaches, including a traditional procedure referred to as the 'plate method', which involves measuring in vitro sun-protection factor (SPF) before and after water immersion, and a new approach termed the 'solution method'. The latter employed a computational method to calculate the SPF using UV transmittance measurements of a sunscreen solution, obtained by rinsing the substrate without water immersion and with water immersion. It also had a model function for describing film irregularity. The aim was to avoid the effect of substrate-to-product affinity on the film distribution, which impacts the measured absolute value of the in vitro SPF occurring in the conventional approach. For both methodologies, we assessed two substrates for the sunscreen application based on different polymers, the widely used polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) and the ethylene methacrylate acid copolymer (EMA).

RESULTS: The agreement between in vivo and in vitro WRR values obtained from each of the four test conditions was analysed using different sunscreens. No correlation was found between in vivo and in vitro WRR using the plate method, independently of the plate type. In contrast, the solution method, using EMA plates, revealed a significant correlation between in vivo and in vitro results, with an especially high correlation for in vivo non-water-resistant sunscreens. The results of two operators were comparable. The solution method was unsuitable for PMMA plates.

CONCLUSION: Despite the small discrepancy remaining between WRR values obtained from the in vitro solution method and in vivo method, which itself shows variability in results, this work provided a new insight into the in vitro testing of water resistance of sunscreens.