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International Journal of Cosmetic Science

M Cho, D-H Lee, E J Doh, Y Kim, J H Chung, H C Kim, S Kim
Erythema is the most common presenting sign of skin conditions [1,2]. Erythema reflects the degree of inflammation associated with various diseases, such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and lupus erythematosus; it is also cosmetically troublesome in subjects with flushing, rosacea, and photoaging [3,4]. In addition, there are vascular disorders that present with erythema, such as nevus flammeus, telangiectasia, and post-acne erythema [5]. Various therapeutic devices, medicines, and cosmetics have been developed to improve these dermatological conditions [6,7]...
February 8, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Nicola Parisi, Paul J Matts, Rebecca Lever, Jonathan Hadgraft, Majella E Lane
Hexamidine (HEX) has been used as a preservative in topical preparations since the 1950s. A number of studies also indicate that the molecule plays a beneficial role in skin homeostasis. In this review we describe the physicochemical properties of hexamidine diisethionate (HEX D) and the corresponding hydrochloride salt (HEX H). The biocidal and protease inhibition properties of HEX are outlined as well as the effects of HEX on lipid processing enzymes, corneocyte maturity, stratum corneum thickness and Trans epidermal water loss (TEWL)...
January 27, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Peggy Sextius, Richard Betts, Ishak Benkhalifa, Stéphane Commo, Joan Eilstein, Marco Massironi, Ping Wang, Jean-Francois Michelet, Jie Qiu, Xuezhu Tan, Severine Jeulin
OBJECTIVE: To examine the ability of an extract from traditional Chinese medicine, Polygonum multiflorum Radix, to protect melanocyte viability from oxidative stress, a key mechanism in the initiation and progression of hair greying. METHODS: To assess the antioxidant capacity of Polygonum multiflorum Radix extract, primary human foreskin melanocytes were treated with a commercially available Polygonum multiflorum Radix extract added to culture medium and exposed to hydrogen peroxide (H2 O2 ), using intracellular reactive oxygen species concentrations and glutathione/protein ratios as endpoints...
January 20, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Jean Adamus, Li Feng, Stacy Hawkins, Kristopher Kalleberg, Jian-Ming Lee
OBJECTIVE: To explore if climbazole enhances retinoid-associated biological activities in vitro and in vivo. METHODS: Primary human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) were treated from six to 48 hours with either retinoids (retinol, retinyl propionate, retinyl palmitate) alone or in combination with climbazole, then assessed for cellular retinoic acid-binding protein 2 (CRABP2) mRNA expression by RT-qPCR. Next, skin equivalent (SE) cultures were topically treated with a retinol or retinyl propionate, and with or without climbazole, then measured for biological changes in retinoid biomarkers...
January 19, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Yanli Li, Yuanbo Zhu, Rong Liang, Cheng Yang
OBJECTIVE: As a potential of bioactive additives, corn bran arabinoxylan (CAX) was prominent in its probiotic benefits and immuno-enhancing activities. In order to improve the antioxidant ability of CAX, naturally occurring caffeic acid (CA) was covalently attached to CAX by esterification to generate caffeic acid corn bran arabinoxylan esters (CA-CAX) with various degrees of substitution (DS). METHODS: The structure of CA-CAX was analyzed by NMR and the DS was determined by HPLC...
January 17, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
P Capra, G Musitelli, P Perugini
OBJECTIVE: The aim of this work was to use the contact angle measurement in order to predict the behavior of ingredients and finished cosmetic products on skin to improve skin feel and product texture. METHOD: Different classes of cosmetic ingredients and formulations were evaluated. The contact angle measurements were carried out by the sessile drop methodusing an apparatus, designed and set up in laboratory. Glass, Teflon and human skin were the reference substrates...
January 9, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Xianshuang Meng, Qiang Ma, Hua Bai, Ziming Wang, Chao Han, Chuanxian Wang
OBJECTIVE: A comprehensive methodology for the simultaneous determination of 15 multiclass organic UV filters in sunscreen cosmetics was developed using high performance liquid chromatography coupled with electrospray ionization tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-ESI-MS/MS). METHODS: Sunscreen cosmetics of various matrices, such as toning lotion, emulsion, cream, and lipstick, were analyzed. Ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) was utilized as the extraction technique for sample preparation...
December 31, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
P André, F Villain
Mannitol has both hydrating and anti-oxidant properties that make it an ideal excipient for use with hyaluronic acid (HA) fillers. This review examines the role of reactive oxygen species in the aging process and their effects on both endogenous HA and HA products developed for aesthetic use. Evidence is presented to show that the free-radical scavenging properties of mannitol provide it with a two-fold mechanism of action when combined with HA fillers: reducing the inflammation and swelling associated with the injection procedure itself, and preventing the degradation of the injected HA by free radicals...
December 27, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
N R Arezki, A C Williams, A J A Cobb, M B Brown
OBJECTIVES: This work aimed to design, synthesize and characterize replacement natural moisturizing factor (NMF) composed of modified hygroscopic linear amino acids to pre-empt or repair skin barrier dysfunction. METHODS: Following synthesis and characterization, thermo-gravimetric analysis and quantum mechanics molecular modelling quantified and depicted water binding to the new compounds. Deliquescence relative humidity demonstrated the water-scavenging ability of the compounds, whereas snake skin moisturizing studies showed they increased water uptake into snake skin...
February 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Y Shao, T He, G J Fisher, J J Voorhees, T Quan
OBJECTIVE: Retinoic acid has been shown to improve the aged-appearing skin. However, less is known about the anti-ageing effects of retinol (ROL, vitamin A), a precursor of retinoic acid, in aged human skin in vivo. This study aimed to investigate the molecular basis of ROL anti-ageing properties in naturally aged human skin in vivo. METHODS: Sun-protected buttock skin (76 ± 6 years old, n = 12) was topically treated with 0.4% ROL and its vehicle for 7 days. The effects of topical ROL on skin epidermis and dermis were evaluated by immunohistochemistry, in situ hybridization, Northern analysis, real-time RT-PCR and Western analysis...
February 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
E C Jung, H Zhu, Y Zou, A Elmahdy, Y Cao, X Hui, H I Maibach
OBJECTIVE: Percutaneous absorption of l-ascorbic acid (LAA) is limited due to its high hydrophilicity and low stability. Here, we investigated the effect of post-dosing sonophoresis (329 kHz, 20 mW cm(-2) ) and heat (36°C) on transdermal delivery of LAA. METHODS: Ultrasound/heat, heat and control treatments were applied on skin surface for 2 and 5 min after topical application of C14-labelled LAA aqueous solution. After 15 min post-exposure, radioactivity was measured in tape-striped stratum corneum (TS-SC), epidermis, dermis and receptor fluid...
December 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
B Y P Tay, S C Yung, T Y Teoh
OBJECTIVE: Isopropyl p-toluenesulfonate (IPTS) is a potentially genotoxic by-product formed during the esterification of palm oil-based palmitic and palm kernel oil-based myristic acid with isopropanol to produce isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate. There are no methods described for the analysis of IPTS in cosmetic products. In this work, we have established a simple, precise and accurate method to determine the presence and level of IPTS in various finished cosmetic products which contain palm-based esters in their formulations...
December 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
P M Ramos, G Brianezi, A C P Martins, M G da Silva, M E A Marques, H A Miot
OBJECTIVE: The objective of this study is to evaluate apoptosis in hair follicles of patients with female pattern hair loss (FPHL) and its association with follicular microinflammation. METHOD: Cross-sectional study involving 17 women with FPHL and five controls. Scalp skin samples were processed for HE and TUNEL assays. The variables were compared according to the categories of follicles (terminal versus miniaturized) and groups of patients (FPHL vs. controls)...
December 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
S E Stewart, M D Parker, A Amézquita, T L Pitt
Regulatory decisions regarding microbiological safety of cosmetics and personal care products are primarily hazard-based, where the presence of a potential pathogen determines decision-making. This contrasts with the Food industry where it is a commonplace to use a risk-based approach for ensuring microbiological safety. A risk-based approach allows consideration of the degree of exposure to assess unacceptable health risks. As there can be a number of advantages in using a risk-based approach to safety, this study explores the Codex Alimentarius (Codex) four-step Microbiological Risk Assessment (MRA) framework frequently used in the Food industry and examines how it can be applied to the safety assessment of personal care products...
December 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
B S Kim, M Blaghen, H-S Hong, K-M Lee
OBJECTIVE: Melanin is a black or brown phenolic polymer present mainly in skin and hair. Although melanin can be degraded by some microbial species, the melanin degradation capacity of Geotrichum sp. is unknown. The aim of this study was to characterize a melanin biodegradation enzyme from Geotrichum sp. METHODS: In this study, we assessed the melanin degradation activity of Geotrichum sp. in comparison with the major melanin-degrading enzymes, manganese-dependent peroxidase (MnP), manganese-independent peroxidase, lignin peroxidase and laccase...
December 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
E Tamura, J Ishikawa, A Naoe, T Yamamoto
OBJECTIVE: The structure of skin on the lips is different from skin at other areas of the body; the water content of the stratum corneum (SC) and the barrier function there is low. Therefore, the lips can easily become dry and rough. The SC plays an important role in the barrier and water-holding functions of the skin. Above all, ceramides (CERs) are important SC lipids which maintain SC functions. The purpose of this study was to clarify the relationship between the degree of lip roughness and the CER profile...
December 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
S Miksa, D Lutz, C Guy, E Delamour
OBJECTIVE: The SPF (sun protection factor) is the best known reference in the world for expressing UVB protection. The SPF is used for labelling purposes for consumer guidance. The determination of the SPF is often accomplished using an in vivo method that has been standardized. Only one in vivo SPF value from one laboratory is required for claiming an SPF value. The aim of this study was to determine the relevance of the in vivo SPF value in terms of interlaboratory variability for claiming purposes and to determine whether some minimum number of different in vivo SPF values from different laboratories would improve the reliability of the final SPF claimed...
December 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
X Ou, W Pan, X Zhang, P Xiao
OBJECTIVE: Skin imaging plays a key role in many clinical studies. We have used many skin imaging techniques, including the recently developed capacitive contact skin imaging based on fingerprint sensors. The aim of this study was to develop an effective skin image retrieval technique using Gabor wavelet transform, which can be used on different types of skin images, but with a special focus on skin capacitive contact images. METHODS: Content-based image retrieval (CBIR) is a useful technology to retrieve stored images from database by supplying query images...
December 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
S Fukui, T Morikawa, M Hirahara, Y Terada, M Shimizu, K Takeuchi, Y Takagi
OBJECTIVE: Washing the hands using cleansers with antiseptic materials is the most popular method for hand hygiene and helps maintain health by preventing food poisoning and bacterial infections. However, repeated hand washing tends to induce eczema of the hand, such as dryness, cracking and erythema. Moreover, eczema on the hand leads to increased levels in Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus) on the skin surface in contrast to expectations. Thus, mild hand cleansers which induce less eczema even with repeated washings are desired...
December 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
J M Crowther
OBJECTIVE: Methods that assess skin hydration based on changes in its electrical properties are widely used in both cosmetic and medical research. However, the devices themselves often give results which are significantly different to each other. Although some work has previously been carried out to try and understand what these devices are actually reading, it was based on a technique for measuring the devices' responses to filter discs impregnated with different liquids, which could in itself be influencing the measurements...
December 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
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