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International Journal of Cosmetic Science

N Yoshioka, K Kurata, T Takahashi, M Ariizumi, T Mori, H Fujisawa, N Kameyama, Y Okuyama
Body odor is mainly caused by secreted sweat. Although sweat is almost odorless immediately after secretion, decomposition or denaturation of components contained in sweat by bacteria on the skin surface contributes to unpleasant body odor. Body odor is due to various substances and aldehydes are primarily detected in body odor [1-4]. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.
June 13, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
D Fagot, D M Pham, J Laboureau, E Planel, L Guerin, C Nègre, M Donovan, B A Bernard
OBJECTIVE: Oxidative stress and low grade chronic inflammation stand out as key features of physiological skin aging. The aim of this study was to examine in normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) and human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) grown in vitro, the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of crocin, a carotenoid glycoside responsible for the color of saffron. Moreover, considering the newly emerging field of skin glycobiology and the presence of two gentiobiosyl moieties in crocin, the effect of crocin on NHEK glycosylation pathways was for the first time investigated...
June 12, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
C Tacheau, F Weisgerber, D Fagot, P Bastien, M P Verdier, M Liboutet, G Sore, B A Bernard
OBJECTIVE: To study the effects of the very high minerality Vichy thermal spring water (VTSW) on human keratinocytes grown in vitro. METHODS: The effect of VTSW was monitored by full genome transcriptomic technology and immunofluorescence microscopy. RESULTS: In the presence of 50% VTSW, the expression of a number of skin homeostasis related genes is increased, specifically with respect to dermal-epidermal junction, epidermal cohesion and communication, keratinocyte proliferation-differentiation balance, antioxidant mechanisms and DNA repair...
June 7, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Rattikorn Intarakumhaeng, Zhanquan Shi, Apipa Wanasathop, Q Ching Stella, Karl S Wei, P B Styczynski, Chuiying Li, Edward D Smith, S Kevin Li
OBJECTIVES: Petrolatum and soybean oil are common ingredients incorporated in topical skin formulations for skin protection and moisturization. However, the stratum corneum (SC) penetration kinetics of these two cosmetic ingredients has not been systematically studied. Glyceryl monooleate (GlyMOle) has been shown to enhance skin penetration of various compounds. It was hypothesized that GlyMOle could enhance skin penetration of petrolatum and soybean oil. The present study aimed to examine the in vitro skin penetration of petrolatum and soybean oil in the presence or absence of GlyMOle...
June 6, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Agnieszka Gunia-Krzyżak, Karolina Słoczyńska, Justyna Popiół, Paulina Koczurkiewicz, Henryk Marona, Elżbieta Pękala
Cinnamic acid derivatives are widely used in cosmetics and possess various functions. This group of compounds includes both naturally occurring as well as synthetic substances. On the basis of the Cosmetic Ingredient Database (CosIng) and available literature, this review summarizes their functions in cosmetics, including their physicochemical and biological properties as well as reported adverse effects. A perfuming function is typical of many derivatives of cinnamaldehyde, cinnamyl alcohol, dihydrocinnamyl alcohol, and cinnamic acid itself; these substances are commonly used in cosmetics all over the world...
June 5, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Ana C C Esposito Lemos, Gabrielli Brianezi, Nathalia P de Sousa, Luciane D B Miot, Mariângela E A Marques, Hélio A Miot
BACKGROUND: The physiopathology of epidermal hypermelanization in melasma is not completely understood. Several cytokines and growth factors are increased in skin with melasma, nevertheless, nor the pathways involved in the increased αMSH expression have been adequately evaluated, nor a model for sustained focal melanogenesis is available. OBJECTIVE: To explore stimulatory pathways for epidermal pigmentation in facial melasma related to αMSH: those linked to ultraviolet radiation, oxidative stress, inflammation, neural crest pigmentation cell differentiation and antagonism of αMSH...
May 30, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Bernhard Fink, Katharina Liebner, Ann-Kathrin Müller, Thomas Hirn, Graham McKelvey, John Lankhof
OBJECTIVE: Research documents that even subtle changes in visible skin condition affect perceptions of age, health, and attractiveness. There is evidence that hair quality also affects the assessment of physical appearance, as variations in hair diameter, hair density, and hair style have systematic effects on perception. Here, we consider combined effects of hair color and skin color on the perception of female physical appearance. METHODS: In two experiments, we digitally manipulated facial skin color of lightly-pigmented, young women, both between-subjects (Experiment 1) and within-subjects (Experiment 2), and investigated possible interactions with hair color in regard to age, health, and attractiveness perception...
May 17, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Catherine Serre, Valère Busuttil, Jean-Marie Botto
In human skin, melanogenesis is a tightly regulated process. Indeed, several extracellular signals are transduced via dedicated signaling pathways and mostly converge to MITF, a transcription factor integrating upstream signaling and regulating downstream genes involved in the various inherent mechanisms modulating melanogenesis. The synthesis of melanin pigments occurs in melanocytes inside melanosomes where melanogenic enzymes (tyrosinase and related proteins) are addressed with the help of specific protein complexes...
May 12, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Missael Antonio Arroyo Negrete, Kazimierz Wrobel, Francisco Javier Acevedo Aguilar, Eunice Yanez Barrientos, Alma Rosa Corrales Escobosa, Katarzyna Wrobel
OBJECTIVE: The goal of this work was to set up a high throughput procedure for the determination of fatty acid methyl esters (FAMEs) in cosmetic castor oils using flow injection - electrospray ionization - high resolution mass spectrometry, and to demonstrate the need of such analysis for the quality control purposes. METHODS: The sample aliquot was mixed with isooctane:chloroform (1:1) and submitted to transesterification; the obtained FAMEs were appropriately diluted using water:isopropanol:acetonitrile (20:50:30) with addition of sodium formate which served as an internal standard, lock mass calibrant and promoted the formation of sodium adducts during electrospray ionization (ESI)...
May 9, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Michał Abendrot, Urszula Kalinowska-Lis
It is well known that zinc ions are widely used in cosmetic products. Their popularity is associated with the multifunctional profile of Zn2+ , which is classified as an essential chemical element in the human body. This review examines numerous beneficial biological properties of zinc-containing compounds and classifies the compounds used in cosmetic products according to their functionality profile: antioxidant, sunscreen, anti-inflammatory, anti-pigmentation, anti-aging, anti-acne, antimicrobial, anti-odour, cleansing or stabilising activity...
May 7, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Camila F Pollo, Luciane Db Miot, Silmara Meneguin, Hélio A Miot
BACKGROUND: Melasma is a common chronic focal hypermelanosis that affects photexposed areas as face, mainly in women at fertile age. It inflicts a significant impact in quality of life, nevertheless, quality of life scores (e.g. MELASQoL) are not strongly correlated with clinical severity (e.g. MASI) in facial melasma, suggesting that different factors can influence the perception of disease beyond the clinical extension or the intensity of pigmentation. OBJECTIVES: To explore clinical and sociodemographic aspects that influences MELASQoL scores...
May 7, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Nina Kočevar Glavač, Mojca Lunder
OBJECTIVE: To investigate the efficacy of 13 antimicrobial substances (11 substances of natural origin and two conventional preservatives as controls) at two concentrations in an o/w cosmetic emulsion. METHODS: Cosmetic formulations were analysed for total aerobic bacterial count and total combined yeast count according to the European Pharmacopoeia 8.0. Challenge tests were performed according to the ISO 11930 standard. RESULTS: The total aerobic bacterial count, the total combined yeast count and the total aerobic mesophilic microorganisms were below the acceptable limit for all cosmetic formulations...
May 5, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Dragana Stojiljković, Vanja Tadić, Milica Stanković, Sonja Roganović, Ivana Arsić
OBJECTIVE: The aim of this study was in vitro and in vivo characterization of cosmetic cream with 6% of wild apple fruit water extract, containing 3.5% of alpha-hydroxyacids-AHAs and polyphenolic compounds, stabilized by biodegradable alkyl-polyglucoside emulsifiers. METHODS: In vitro characterization of cream included organoleptic and physico-chemical (pH values and electrical conductivity) analysis, antioxidant activity-AA estimation (using DPPH test) during 180 days of storage at 22±2°C and determination of cosmetic active substances content-AHAs (using HPLC analysis)...
May 3, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
C Charron, S De Vaugelade, F Richard, A Largitte, S Pirnay
Nowadays, plastics are ubiquitous in our daily life. Most of materials used in cosmetic packaging are plastics. It is due to their great diversity of form and colour, their low cost and their easy production. The manufacture of plastic packaging requires the use of several additives such as plasticizers. These molecules are able to migrate from the packaging to the product [1] and can change the product composition, his properties and be harmful to the consumer health. This article is protected by copyright...
April 25, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
M Pissavini, C Tricaud, G Wiener, A Lauer, M Contier, L Kolbe, C Trullás Cabanas, F Boyer, V Nollent, E Meredith, E Dietrich, P J Matts
OBJECTIVE: The objective of this work was to investigate the utility of a new in vitro SPF test method in blinded ring-testing, against new ISO acceptance criteria. METHODS: Twenty four blinded, commercial, emulsion-type, primary sunscreen products, covering the full range of labelled SPF in Europe (SPF6 - 50+), were tested by three test institutes using the current ISO24444:2010 In Vivo SPF Test Method and simultaneously by three separate test laboratories using a new candidate in vitro SPF test method, developed under the leadership of Cosmetics Europe (CE)...
April 20, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
D J Jo, J K Seok, S Y Kim, W Park, J H Baek, Y M Kim, Y C Boo
OBJECTIVES: Resveratryl triglycolate (RTG) is a hybrid compound derived by the esterification of resveratrol with glycolic acid. This compound has been previously shown to inhibit cellular melanin synthesis in vitro. This study aimed to examine the in vivo skin-depigmenting efficacy of RTG in human participants. METHODS: In total, 22 women aged between 25 and 49 years with Fitzpatrick skin type III or IV were enrolled. Their forearms were exposed to UV to induce artificial pigmentation...
April 16, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
M Melgosa, N Richard, C Fernández-Maloigne, K Xiao, H de Clermont-Gallerande, S Jost-Boissard, K Okajima
OBJECTIVE: To provide an approach to facial contrast, analysing CIELAB colour differences (ΔEab,10∗) and its components in women's faces from two different ethnic groups, illuminated by modern white light-emitting diodes (LEDs) or traditional illuminants recommended by the International Commission on Illumination (CIE). METHODS: We performed spectrophotometric measurements of spectral reflectance factors on forehead and cheek of 87 young healthy women (50 Caucasians and 37 Orientals), plus five commercial red lipsticks...
April 10, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
G Kang, T N T Tu, S Kim, H Yang, M Jang, D Jo, J Ryu, J Baek, H Jung
OBJECTIVE: Although dissolving microneedle patches have been widely studied in the cosmetics field, no comparisons have been drawn with the topical applications available for routine use. In this study, two wrinkle-improving products, adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches and an adenosine cream, were evaluated for efficacy, with respect to skin wrinkling, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration, and safety in a clinical test on the crow's feet area. METHODS: Clinical efficacy and safety tests were performed for 10 weeks on 22 female subjects with wrinkles around their eyes...
April 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
V Saez, I D L Souza, C R E Mansur
The antioxidative and photoprotective properties of vitamin E have caused it to be included as an active agent in various pharmaceutical and cosmetic products. However, its lipophilicity, chemical instability and poor skin penetration have limited the effectiveness of these formulations. For that reason, many attempts to include it in different drug delivery systems have been made. In recent decades, lipid nanoparticles have received special attention due to their advantages of compatibility with the skin, ability to enhance penetration of drugs in the stratum corneum, protection of the encapsulated substance against degradation induced by the external medium and control of drug release...
April 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
B Fink, P J Matts, C Brauckmann, S Gundlach
OBJECTIVE: Previous studies investigating the effects of skin surface topography and colouration cues on the perception of female faces reported a differential weighting for the perception of skin topography and colour evenness, where topography was a stronger visual cue for the perception of age, whereas skin colour evenness was a stronger visual cue for the perception of health. We extend these findings in a study of the effect of skin surface topography and colour evenness cues on the perceptions of facial age, health and attractiveness in males...
April 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
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