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International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Daria Terescenco, Geraldine Savary, Celine Picard, Florence Clemenceau, Emmanuelle Merat, Michel Grisel
The sensory perception of cosmetic emulsions is complex as it is governed by an important number of parameters like the choice of raw materials, their interactions, the structural organisation of the system, etc. The aim of the present work was to go further in the interpretation of the emollient-surfactant interactions, towards the emulsions applicative properties. For this purpose, two systems containing liquid crystals of the lamellar type were formulated, differing only in the selected emollient METHODS: First, the liquid crystals types were checked using different tools like the optical microscopy under the bright and polarized light, the wide-angle X rays diffraction and, finally, thermogravimetric analysis...
October 10, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Forough Zareanshahraki, Vijay Mannari
OBJECTIVE: Gel nail polishes represent an advanced class of nail polishes, with the ability to cure under ultraviolet (UV) radiation, and consequently demonstrate improved properties and greater durability compared to conventional nail polishes. Most gel nail polishes available today are based on petrochemical resources, making them unsustainable. Bio-based materials are excellent renewable resources, with high potential for meeting final-product performance, cost, and environmental needs...
October 9, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Raoul Vyumvuhore, Rime Michael-Jubeli, Laurie Verzeaux, David Boudier, Maud Le Guillou, Sylvie Bordes, Danielle Libong, Ali Tfayli, Michel Manfait, Brigitte Closs
OBJECTIVE: Although xerosis is a common skin disorder among the population, there is no in vivo global study focusing on xerotic skin. Hence, the objective of this study was to characterize xerotic skin from the surface to the molecular scale with in vivo and non-invasive approaches. METHODS: For this purpose, 15 healthy volunteers with normal skin and 19 healthy volunteers with xerotic skin were selected by a dermatologist thanks to a visual scorage. Firstly, the skin surface was characterized with biometric measurements...
October 4, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Anita J Grosvenor, Santanu Deb-Choudhury, Paul G Middlewood, Ancy Thomas, Erin Lee, James A Vernon, Joy L Woods, Cheryl Taylor, Fraser I Bell, Stefan Clerens
OBJECTIVE: To understand the structural and chemical effects of cosmetic peroxide bleaching on human hair. Methods Human hair was progressively bleached using alkaline peroxide-persulfate treatment. Proteins lost through leaching were examined using amino acid analysis and mass spectrometric sequencing. Fibre damage was assessed using transmission electron microscopy, amino acid analysis, and redox proteomics. RESULTS: Protein loss through leaching increased with bleaching severity...
September 19, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Stéphanie Almeida Scalvino, Audrey Chapelle, Neïla Hajem, Elian Lati, Philippe Gasser, Jean-Christophe Choulot, Laurence Michel, Michel Hocquaux, Estelle Loing, Joan Attia, Joanna Wdzieczak-Bakala
OBJECTIVE: Hair greying (i.e., canities) is a component of chronological aging and occurs regardless of gender or ethnicity. Canities is directly linked to the loss of melanin and increase in oxidative stress in the hair follicle and shaft. To promote hair pigmentation and reduce the hair greying process, an agonist of α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH), a biomimetic peptide (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-20; PTP20) was developed. The aim of this study was to describe the effects of the designed peptide on hair greying...
September 17, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Guoqiang Chen, Chengdong Ji, Luisa Z Collins, Michael Hoptroff, Hans-Gerd Janssen
The anti-dandruff (AD) efficacy of an AD shampoo is highly dependent on the deposition of the AD actives onto the human scalp during the process of shampoo application and the amounts remaining after rinse-off. Zinc pyrithione (ZnPT) is the most common anti-fungal active formulated in commercially available (AD) shampoos.
September 7, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Frederic Flament, David Amar, Charlotte Feltin, Roland Bazin
BACKGROUND: The alterations of some facial characteristics, with age, in men of different ethnic groups is a scarcely studied topic. OBJECTIVE: To illustrate and grade, among men of four different ethnic descents (Asians, African-Americans, Caucasians, Indians), aged 18-80 y, the changes in the severity of some facial signs occurring with age. METHODS: Digital Photographs (full face, profile, 45°) of 1058 subjects were taken under standard conditions of lightning...
September 7, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Ziwei Zhang, Milica Lukic, Snezana Savic, Dominique Jasmin Lunter
OBJECTIVE: the aim of the study was to develop formulations to deliver physiological lipids into skin in an attempt to repair defective barrier function. METHODS: physiological cholesterol and linoleic acid were incorporated in basic cream and non-ionic cream to prepare skin repair formulations. Homogeneity and storage stability of the developed creams were examined by polarized light microscopy. Ex vivo evaluation was conducted using lipid deficient skin samples and confocal Raman microspectroscopy...
September 1, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
E Segot-Chicq, S Salah, M Jullien, N Portal, C Deschodt, D Gagnebien
OBJECTIVE: To understand the drivers of body skin discomfort and to validate a new index to assess its severity. This index should be sensitive enough to capture changes in response to treatment. METHODS: Previous consumer studies suggested seven potential main dimensions behind skin discomfort. Four of them refer to self-declarations (stinging, itching, warming and tightening), whereas three can be assessed by a dermatologist (skin dryness, redness and desquamation)...
August 29, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Alka Madaan, Ritu Verma, Anu T Singh, Manu Jaggi
Hair disorders such as hair loss (alopecia) and androgen dependent, excessive hair growth (hirsutism, hypertrichosis) may impact the social and psychological well-being of an individual. Recent advances in understanding the biology of hair have accelerated the research and development of novel therapeutic and cosmetic hair growth agents. Preclinical models aid in dermocosmetic efficacy testing and claim substantiation of hair growth modulators. The in vitro models to investigate hair growth utilize the hair follicle Dermal Papilla cells (DPCs), specialized mesenchymal cells located at the base of hair follicle that play essential roles in hair follicular morphogenesis and postnatal hair growth cycles...
August 25, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Frederic Flament, Nasrine Bourokba, Stephanie Nouveau, Jing Li, Aude Charbonneau
BACKGROUND: The impact of a chronic outdoor urban pollution on skin aging-related facial signs is a poorly referenced topic. OBJECTIVE: To assess, through visual grading and referential photographic atlas, possible differences in some facial signs between Chinese women, of comparable ages, living in two close cities very differently exposed to urban pollution. METHODS: The faces of 2 cohorts of 204 Chinese women (2 x 102) of same age-groups (25-45 y), living in Baoding (a highly polluted city) and Dalian (a less polluted city), for at least 15 years, have been analyzed...
August 16, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Julien Pierre, Ghislain Francois, Amelie Marie Benize, Virginie Rubert, Julie Coutet, Frederic Flament
OBJECTIVE: To determine the homogeneity in the distribution of two cutaneous functions (hydration and elasticity) along the entire human face. MATERIAL AND METHODS: The half faces (right or left, randomly chosen) of two groups of Caucasian women were measured on 24 different small sites (elasticity) and 41 others (hydration), by instruments of small-sized probes (Cutometer® and Corneometer® , respectively). Hydration of the face was recorded at different times (up to 24 hours), post application of a highly hydrating product...
August 14, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
S New, G Daniels, C L Gummer
OBJECTIVES: It is commonly assumed that, due to the long growth cycle of hair, multi-cycle combing, and strength and fatigue testing using thousands of cycles is relevant for product evaluation and claim substantiation. The objective was to assess the frequency and magnitude of combing forces on individual hairs against a hypothesis that fibres on a consumer's head rarely experience significant loads during routine combing. METHODS: Single fibres were removed from a tress, attached to a load cell and replaced in the tress...
August 4, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Bruno C Sil, David J Moore
Pyridine-3-carboxamide, also known as niacinamide (NIA), is used in many pharmaceutical and personal care formulations for the improvement of skin barrier function, management of acne and amelioration of the symptoms of atopic dermatitis [1-3]. The widespread use of NIA (Table I) in skin care highlights the importance of understanding the percutaneous penetration and skin distribution of this molecule [4]. Previously, we have conducted several studies that have evaluated a wide variety of NIA formulations [4, 5]...
August 4, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Denise Wade Rafferty, Laure Dupin, Joseph Zellia, Ann Giovannitti-Jensen
OBJECTIVE: Sensory perceptions and performance are important to the success of a lipstick formulation, but in-vivo evaluation can be expensive and time-consuming. The goal of this work is to develop and use lab test methods to predict the sensory and performance properties of lipstick. METHODS: Twelve model lipstick formulations were prepared, in which only the emollient varied, resulting in a variety of sensory and performance properties. The lipsticks were tested for sensory perceptions of spreadability, stickiness, opacity and gloss with a 9-person panel...
July 26, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
A Tinoco, J Gonçalves, C Silva, A Loureiro, A C Gomes, A Cavaco-Paulo, A Ribeiro
OBJECTIVE: Human hair is an element with unquestionable relevance in society both for women and men. Therefore, it is of great importance to develop new cosmetic products for hair care capable to restore and improve hair's characteristics. Here, we explore the potential of keratin-based particles in the protection and recovery of hair mechanical properties and thermal stability. METHODS: Keratin-based particles were obtained by high pressure homogenization (HPH) using keratin and silk fibroin...
August 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
S Bielfeldt, G Springmann, M Seise, K-P Wilhelm, T Callaghan
With the advancement of skin research, today's consumer has increased access to an informed understanding of ageing skin and its appendages, together with a plethora of targeted products to meet such needs. In recent years, increased legislative demands for quality evidential claims support have led not only to the development and validation of clinical methods to measure and quantify ageing skin, but also a clearer understanding of the skin ageing process-especially the impact of both its internal and external environments-as well as a tougher stance on clearly unjustifiable claims...
August 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
B L Diffey, C O'Connor, I Marlow, M Bell, M M O'Mahony
OBJECTIVE: To investigate how the UV protection provided by a facial day cream reduces over the course of a day. METHODS: We developed a theoretical model using a Monte Carlo random sampling approach to estimate the variation in local thickness, and hence local effective SPF, at several different sites over the face. The input variables, which are labelled SPF, average application thickness, homogeneity of the product on the skin and the ability of the product to bind to the skin, allow examination of how these different factors affect the delivered photoprotection...
August 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
N Yoshioka, K Kurata, T Takahashi, M Ariizumi, T Mori, H Fujisawa, N Kameyama, Y Okuyama
OBJECTIVE: The major causes of unpleasant human body odour are aldehydes produced by axillary-resident bacteria. There are many methods of body odour prevention; however, they all carry risks of destroying indigenous dermal bacteria that are necessary for the maintenance of the normal physical function of the skin. Furthermore, some methods cannot directly reduce the concentrations of substances that cause body odour. Therefore, a novel method of reducing body odour more safely and effectively is required...
August 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
D Fagot, D M Pham, J Laboureau, E Planel, L Guerin, C Nègre, M Donovan, B A Bernard
OBJECTIVE: Oxidative stress and low-grade chronic inflammation stand out as key features of physiological skin ageing. The aim of this study was to examine in normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) and human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) grown in vitro, the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of crocin, a carotenoid glycoside responsible for the colour of saffron. Moreover, considering the newly emerging field of skin glycobiology and the presence of two gentiobiosyl moieties in crocin, the effect of crocin on NHEK glycosylation pathways was for the first time investigated...
August 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
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