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International Journal of Cosmetic Science

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https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28295411/how-a-working-day-induced-tiredness-may-alter-some-facial-signs-in-differently-aged-caucasian-women
#1
Flament Frederic, Pierre Julien, Delhommeau Karine, Adam Anne-Sophie
OBJECTIVES: To assess the alterations of some facial clinical signs after a working day in French Caucasian women. METHODS: Standardized photographs of full faces of 111 women of two different age-classes were taken before and after a working day. Photos were submitted in blind (morning or evening) to a panel of 10 experts for scoring the severity of 8 different facial signs using specific scales as established by previously published referential skin atlases. A panel of 60 naïve women gave their assessment of the overall look (more or less tired, aged, dull) from paired (morning/evening) photos given in blind...
March 15, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28295406/lipid-based-submicron-capsules-as-a-strategy-to-include-high-concentrations-of-a-hydrophobic-lightening-agent-in-a-hydrogel
#2
Htp Nguyen, M Soucé, X Perse, F Vial, T Perrier, F Yvergnaux, I Chourpa, E Munnier
OBJECTIVE: The present study aims at increasing the concentration of a hydrophobic lightening agent, Omegalight(®) , in a hydrophilic cosmetic product by means of encapsulation in lipid-based submicron capsules. The core of these capsules is entirely made of the commercial lightening agent. METHODS: Lipid-based encapsulation systems (LNC) were prepared by the PIT method. Their physicochemical properties were followed over 6 months by dynamic light scattering and zeta potential measurements, and in parallel the potential degradation of the active ingredient was monitored by HPLC...
March 15, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28295359/the-perplexing-dilemma-of-measuring-sun-protection-factors
#3
Marc Pissavini, Brian Diffey, Olivier Doucet
Truth, like knowledge, is surprisingly difficult to define. Indeed, every definition of truth that philosophers have developed falls prey to the question, "Is it true?". In this essay we consider what is the true SPF of a sunscreen product and whether it can ever be realizable. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.
March 15, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28267214/the-effect-of-additives-on-release-and-in-vitro-skin-retention-of-flavonoids-from-emulsion-and-gel-semisolid-formulations
#4
Renata Dyja, Andrzej Jankowski
OBJECTIVE: To assess the effect of two different additives (propylene glycol (PG) and polyethylene glycol 400 (PEG 400)) on release and in vitro skin retention of quercetin and chrysin from semisolid bases (amphiphilic creams and acidic carbomer gels). METHODS: For obtaining semisolid formulations, flavonoids were pre-dissolved in the liquid (PG or PEG 400) or directly suspended in the semisolid base. Three chrysin formulations ('cream 0', 'PG-cream', 'PEG 400-cream') and five quercetin formulations ('cream 0', 'PG cream', 'PEG 400 cream', 'gel 0', 'PG gel') were prepared...
March 7, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28267210/skin-delivery-of-hydrophilic-molecules-from-liposomes-and-polysaccharide-coated-liposomes
#5
Nabila Belhaj, Elmira Arab-Tehrany, Estelle Loing, Carine Bézivin
Liposomes are commonly used in cosmetic formulations to increase the bioavailability of active ingredients. We have previously shown that polysaccharide coating of liposomes improves their resistance to surfactants and electrolytes. In the current study, we have assessed the impact of coating on the skin penetration enhancer properties of liposomes. The physicochemical properties of coated liposomes (Ionosomes(™) ) were evaluated before and after encapsulation of two different hydrophilic molecules (caffeine and a hexapeptide), and compared to those observed with non-coated liposomes...
March 7, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28178365/development-and-clinical-validation-of-a-novel-photography-based-skin-erythema-evaluation-system-a-comparison-with-the-calculated-consensus-of-dermatologists
#6
M Cho, D-H Lee, E J Doh, Y Kim, J H Chung, H C Kim, S Kim
Erythema is the most common presenting sign of skin conditions [1,2]. Erythema reflects the degree of inflammation associated with various diseases, such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and lupus erythematosus; it is also cosmetically troublesome in subjects with flushing, rosacea, and photoaging [3,4]. In addition, there are vascular disorders that present with erythema, such as nevus flammeus, telangiectasia, and post-acne erythema [5]. Various therapeutic devices, medicines, and cosmetics have been developed to improve these dermatological conditions [6,7]...
February 8, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28129440/hexamidine-salts-applications-in-skin-health-and-personal-care-products
#7
REVIEW
N Parisi, P J Matts, R Lever, J Hadgraft, M E Lane
Hexamidine (HEX) has been used as a preservative in topical preparations since the 1950s. A number of studies also indicate that the molecule plays a beneficial role in skin homoeostasis. In this review, we describe the physicochemical properties of hexamidine diisethionate (HEX D) and the corresponding hydrochloride salt (HEX H). The biocidal and protease inhibition properties of HEX are outlined as well as the effects of HEX on lipid processing enzymes, corneocyte maturity, stratum corneum thickness and transepidermal water loss (TEWL)...
January 27, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28109001/polygonum-multiflorum-radix-extract-protects-human-foreskin-melanocytes-from-oxidative-stress-in-vitro-and-potentiates-hair-follicle-pigmentation-ex-vivo
#8
Peggy Sextius, Richard Betts, Ishak Benkhalifa, Stéphane Commo, Joan Eilstein, Marco Massironi, Ping Wang, Jean-Francois Michelet, Jie Qiu, Xuezhu Tan, Severine Jeulin
OBJECTIVE: To examine the ability of an extract from traditional Chinese medicine, Polygonum multiflorum Radix, to protect melanocyte viability from oxidative stress, a key mechanism in the initiation and progression of hair greying. METHODS: To assess the antioxidant capacity of Polygonum multiflorum Radix extract, primary human foreskin melanocytes were treated with a commercially available Polygonum multiflorum Radix extract added to culture medium and exposed to hydrogen peroxide (H2 O2 ), using intracellular reactive oxygen species concentrations and glutathione/protein ratios as endpoints...
January 20, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28103388/climbazole-boosts-activity-of-retinoids-in-skin
#9
Jean Adamus, Li Feng, Stacy Hawkins, Kristopher Kalleberg, Jian-Ming Lee
OBJECTIVE: To explore if climbazole enhances retinoid-associated biological activities in vitro and in vivo. METHODS: Primary human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) were treated from six to 48 hours with either retinoids (retinol, retinyl propionate, retinyl palmitate) alone or in combination with climbazole, then assessed for cellular retinoic acid-binding protein 2 (CRABP2) mRNA expression by RT-qPCR. Next, skin equivalent (SE) cultures were topically treated with a retinol or retinyl propionate, and with or without climbazole, then measured for biological changes in retinoid biomarkers...
January 19, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28094854/synthesis-and-antioxidant-properties-of-caffeic-acid-corn-bran-arabinoxylan-esters
#10
Yanli Li, Yuanbo Zhu, Rong Liang, Cheng Yang
OBJECTIVE: As a potential of bioactive additives, corn bran arabinoxylan (CAX) was prominent in its probiotic benefits and immuno-enhancing activities. In order to improve the antioxidant ability of CAX, naturally occurring caffeic acid (CA) was covalently attached to CAX by esterification to generate caffeic acid corn bran arabinoxylan esters (CA-CAX) with various degrees of substitution (DS). METHODS: The structure of CA-CAX was analyzed by NMR and the DS was determined by HPLC...
January 17, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28067963/wetting-and-adhesion-evaluation-of-cosmetic-ingredients-and-products-correlation-of-in-vitro-in-vivo-contact-angle-measurements
#11
P Capra, G Musitelli, P Perugini
OBJECTIVE: The aim of this work was to use the contact angle measurement in order to predict the behavior of ingredients and finished cosmetic products on skin to improve skin feel and product texture. METHOD: Different classes of cosmetic ingredients and formulations were evaluated. The contact angle measurements were carried out by the sessile drop methodusing an apparatus, designed and set up in laboratory. Glass, Teflon and human skin were the reference substrates...
January 9, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28039890/simultaneous-separation-and-determination-of-15-organic-uv-filters-in-sunscreen-cosmetics-by-hplc-esi-ms-ms
#12
Xianshuang Meng, Qiang Ma, Hua Bai, Ziming Wang, Chao Han, Chuanxian Wang
OBJECTIVE: A comprehensive methodology for the simultaneous determination of 15 multiclass organic UV filters in sunscreen cosmetics was developed using high performance liquid chromatography coupled with electrospray ionization tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-ESI-MS/MS). METHODS: Sunscreen cosmetics of various matrices, such as toning lotion, emulsion, cream, and lipstick, were analyzed. Ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) was utilized as the extraction technique for sample preparation...
December 31, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28027572/free-radical-scavenging-properties-of-mannitol-and-its-role-as-a-constituent-of-hyaluronic-acid-fillers-a-literature-review
#13
REVIEW
P André, F Villain
Mannitol has both hydrating and antioxidant properties that make it an ideal excipient for use with hyaluronic acid (HA) fillers. This review examines the role of reactive oxygen species in the ageing process and their effects on both endogenous HA and HA products developed for aesthetic use. Evidence is presented to show that the free radical scavenging properties of mannitol provide it with a two-fold mechanism of action when combined with HA fillers: reducing the inflammation and swelling associated with the injection procedure itself, and preventing the degradation of the injected HA by free radicals...
December 27, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/27380298/design-synthesis-and-characterization-of-linear-unnatural-amino-acids-for-skin-moisturization
#14
N R Arezki, A C Williams, A J A Cobb, M B Brown
OBJECTIVES: This work aimed to design, synthesize and characterize replacement natural moisturizing factor (NMF) composed of modified hygroscopic linear amino acids to pre-empt or repair skin barrier dysfunction. METHODS: Following synthesis and characterization, thermo-gravimetric analysis and quantum mechanics molecular modelling quantified and depicted water binding to the new compounds. Deliquescence relative humidity demonstrated the water-scavenging ability of the compounds, whereas snake skin moisturizing studies showed they increased water uptake into snake skin...
February 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/27261203/molecular-basis-of-retinol-anti-ageing-properties-in-naturally-aged-human-skin-in-vivo
#15
Y Shao, T He, G J Fisher, J J Voorhees, T Quan
OBJECTIVE: Retinoic acid has been shown to improve the aged-appearing skin. However, less is known about the anti-ageing effects of retinol (ROL, vitamin A), a precursor of retinoic acid, in aged human skin in vivo. This study aimed to investigate the molecular basis of ROL anti-ageing properties in naturally aged human skin in vivo. METHODS: Sun-protected buttock skin (76 ± 6 years old, n = 12) was topically treated with 0.4% ROL and its vehicle for 7 days. The effects of topical ROL on skin epidermis and dermis were evaluated by immunohistochemistry, in situ hybridization, Northern analysis, real-time RT-PCR and Western analysis...
February 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/27380114/effect-of-ultrasound-and-heat-on-percutaneous-absorption-of-l-ascorbic-acid-human-in-vitro-studies-on-franz-cell-and-petri-dish-systems
#16
E C Jung, H Zhu, Y Zou, A Elmahdy, Y Cao, X Hui, H I Maibach
OBJECTIVE: Percutaneous absorption of l-ascorbic acid (LAA) is limited due to its high hydrophilicity and low stability. Here, we investigated the effect of post-dosing sonophoresis (329 kHz, 20 mW cm(-2) ) and heat (36°C) on transdermal delivery of LAA. METHODS: Ultrasound/heat, heat and control treatments were applied on skin surface for 2 and 5 min after topical application of C14-labelled LAA aqueous solution. After 15 min post-exposure, radioactivity was measured in tape-striped stratum corneum (TS-SC), epidermis, dermis and receptor fluid...
December 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/27169828/determination-and-confirmation-of-isopropyl-p-toluenesulfonate-in-cosmetics-by-hplc-diode-array-detector-method-and-gc-ms
#17
B Y P Tay, S C Yung, T Y Teoh
OBJECTIVE: Isopropyl p-toluenesulfonate (IPTS) is a potentially genotoxic by-product formed during the esterification of palm oil-based palmitic and palm kernel oil-based myristic acid with isopropanol to produce isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate. There are no methods described for the analysis of IPTS in cosmetic products. In this work, we have established a simple, precise and accurate method to determine the presence and level of IPTS in various finished cosmetic products which contain palm-based esters in their formulations...
December 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/27163333/apoptosis-in-follicles-of-individuals-with-female-pattern-hair-loss-is-associated-with-perifollicular-microinflammation
#18
P M Ramos, G Brianezi, A C P Martins, M G da Silva, M E A Marques, H A Miot
OBJECTIVE: The objective of this study is to evaluate apoptosis in hair follicles of patients with female pattern hair loss (FPHL) and its association with follicular microinflammation. METHOD: Cross-sectional study involving 17 women with FPHL and five controls. Scalp skin samples were processed for HE and TUNEL assays. The variables were compared according to the categories of follicles (terminal versus miniaturized) and groups of patients (FPHL vs. controls)...
December 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/27139432/microbiological-risk-assessment-for-personal-care-products
#19
S E Stewart, M D Parker, A Amézquita, T L Pitt
Regulatory decisions regarding microbiological safety of cosmetics and personal care products are primarily hazard-based, where the presence of a potential pathogen determines decision-making. This contrasts with the Food industry where it is a commonplace to use a risk-based approach for ensuring microbiological safety. A risk-based approach allows consideration of the degree of exposure to assess unacceptable health risks. As there can be a number of advantages in using a risk-based approach to safety, this study explores the Codex Alimentarius (Codex) four-step Microbiological Risk Assessment (MRA) framework frequently used in the Food industry and examines how it can be applied to the safety assessment of personal care products...
December 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/27139194/purification-and-characterization-of-a-melanin-biodegradation-enzyme-from-geotrichum-sp
#20
B S Kim, M Blaghen, H-S Hong, K-M Lee
OBJECTIVE: Melanin is a black or brown phenolic polymer present mainly in skin and hair. Although melanin can be degraded by some microbial species, the melanin degradation capacity of Geotrichum sp. is unknown. The aim of this study was to characterize a melanin biodegradation enzyme from Geotrichum sp. METHODS: In this study, we assessed the melanin degradation activity of Geotrichum sp. in comparison with the major melanin-degrading enzymes, manganese-dependent peroxidase (MnP), manganese-independent peroxidase, lignin peroxidase and laccase...
December 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
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