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International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Vittorio Mazzarello, Giuliana Solinas, Pasquale Bandiera, Valeria Pomponi, Gabriella Piu, Marco Ferrari, Andrea Montella
The vermilion zone of the lips (also called red lip or zone of Klein) has peculiar characteristics, different from the surrounding skin, which make it one of the most important parts of the lips. It can be considered a tactile organ, with an essential role in the body's anatomy and functions. Together with the lips, the vermilion zone represents one of the typical characteristics of mammals and its evolutionary appearance seems to be linked to the source of nutrition of these animals (especially breastfeeding), to the articulation of sounds, to their facial expression and to their sexual function...
November 24, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Stefan Hettwer, Stefan Bänziger, Brigit Suter, Barbara Obermayer
OBJECTIVE: Blocking the TRPV1 receptor is an interesting approach for the treatment of sensitive skin. Here we investigated the potential of grifolin derivatives from Albatrellus ovinus to act as TRPV1 receptor blockers and their potential to serve as cosmetic active ingredients. METHODS: Binding characteristics of grifolin derivatives from Albatrellus ovinus were determined in competitive and functional in vitro assays to achieve IC50 values. The TRPV1 receptor was activated in vivo with capsaicin and noxious heat to investigate skin reddening, microcirculation, skin sensations and heat pain thresholds...
November 24, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Karl Lintner, Majella Eileen Lane
Four years and several months ago…, Tony Rawlings handed me over the IJCS which by that time had acquired the right of citation in Medline and was about to receive its first impact factor. With Majella Lane at my side, we strived to continue the dynamic of its development, the further building of a reputation of scientific integrity, of interesting content and attractiveness for authors, especially in keeping the turnaround times between submission and decision as short as possible. This became more and more difficult as the number of annual submissions went from ≈ 160 in 2013 to an estimated 370 in 2016, thus reflecting the increased awareness of our Journal in the international research community...
November 22, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
M Trautmann, V Wendel, D Prinz, B Primmel, G Willging, E Nagorsen, A Suckert, S Gehm, M Brandt, P Ballay, B Godde
OBJECTIVE: We aimed to examine if and how age as well as tactile sensitivity and perception had an impact on how women liked richer and lighter creams. Furthermore, the question arose if age and tactile perception had an influence on the ability to distinguish between the creams and how the ability to distinguish between creams influenced the liking of these creams. METHODS: 299 female participants were invited to rate how much they liked four different cosmetic creams applied to their forearms...
November 16, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Liang Hong, Dan Han, Ming-Xin Li, Pei Zhang, Chen-Guang Liu
OBJECTIVE: To develop a rapid, simple and efficient Ultraviolet-visible (UV-Vis) spectrophotometric method for the quantification of phenylethyl resorcinol (PR), a potent skin-lightening agent, incorporated into new topical nanoemulsions, and to validate this method according to International Commission for Harmonization (ICH) guidelines. METHODS: UV-Vis spectrophotometric method for quantification of PR in new topical nanoemulsions was developed and validated in terms of specificity, linearity, sensitivity, precision, and accuracy...
November 9, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
A B Orun, H Seker, V Uslan, E Goodyer, G Smith
OBJECTIVE: The textural structure of "skin age" related sub-skin components enables us to identify and analyse their unique characteristics, thus making substantial progress towards establishing an accurate skin age model. METHODS: This is achieved by a two stage process. First by the application of textural analysis using laser speckle imaging, which is sensitive to textural effects within the λ=650 nm spectral band region. In the second stage a Bayesian inference method is used to select attributes from which a predictive model is built...
November 3, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
G Peterson, S Rapaka, N Koski, M Kearney, K Ortblad, L Tadlock
: With increasing concerns over the rise of atmospheric particulate pollution globally and its impact on systemic health and skin aging, we have developed a pollution model to mimic particulate matter trapped in sebum and oils creating a robust (difficult to remove) surrogate for dirty, polluted skin. OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the cleansing efficacy/protective effect of a sonic brush vs. manual cleansing against particulate pollution (trapped in grease/oil typical of human sebum)...
October 31, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Aleksandra Dimitrovska Cvetkovska, Stefano Manfredini, Paola Ziosi, Sonia Molesini, Valeria Dissette, Ilenia Magri, Chiara Scapoli, Alberto Carrieri, Elisa Durini, Silvia Vertuani
OBJECTIVE: The in vitro evaluation of SPF is still a problem due to the lack of repeatability and correlation between the in vitro and in vivo data and many authors are currently working to develop an internationally harmonized method.(1) Very recently, the use of several "adjuvant" ingredients such as boosters, antioxidants, immuno-modulators, solvents and film forming ingredients have further complicated the pattern for product developers, that should frequently run in vivo test. The aim of this study is to understand if a simple and cheap in vitro method could be optimized in order to provide both statistically repeatable and predictive SPF measurement...
October 26, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
M Narayanan, P Sekar, M Pasupathi, T Mukhopadhyay
OBJECTIVE: As questions on the safety of some popular preservatives are on the rise, there is a growing interest in developing 'self-preserving' personal care products. Use of multifunctional ingredients/actives with antimicrobial properties has been explored as replacements for conventional preservatives. This study explores the use of combinations of multifunctional actives (MFA) and other cosmetic ingredients in various personal care formulations, to deliver microbiologically safe self-preserving products...
October 20, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
M Sysoltseva, R Winterhalter, A S Wochnik, C Scheu, H Fromme
OBJECTIVE: The objective of this research was to determine the size, shape and aggregation of titanium dioxide (TiO2 ) particles which are used in sun lotion as UV-blocker. METHODS: Overall, six sunscreens from various suppliers and two reference substances were analysed by electron microscopy (EM) techniques in combination with energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (EDS). Because of a high fat content in sun lotion, it was impossible to visualize the TiO2 particles without previous EM sample preparation...
October 18, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Tomoko Nomura, Yasuko Yoshida-Amano, Kenichiro Yoshida, Akihiko Fujii, Masanori Tanahashi, Yoshinori Sugiyama, Kayoko Iwata, Takatoshi Murase
OBJECTIVE: Several studies have shown that a deterioration of skin properties, an impaired cutaneous microcirculation function and an imbalance of autonomic nervous activity are observed in smokers and in patients with diabetes mellitus or Raynaud's phenomenon. These observations suggest that skin properties are associated with cutaneous microcirculatory function and autonomic nervous activity in pathological conditions. However, there is no published evidence to support the concept that these two functions have any relationship with skin properties even in healthy subjects...
October 12, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
A C Weihermann, M Lorencini, C A Brohem, C M de Carvalho
Skin aging is a complex process that may be caused by factors that are intrinsic and extrinsic to the body. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation represents one of the main sources of skin damage over the years and characterizes a process known as photoaging. Among the changes that affect cutaneous tissue with age, the loss of elastic properties caused by changes in elastin production, increased degradation and/or processing produces a substantial impact on tissue esthetics and health. The occurrence of solar elastosis is one of the main markers of cutaneous photoaging and is characterized by disorganized and non-functional deposition of elastic fibers...
October 12, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
J Blaak, D Dähnhardt, S Dähnhardt-Pfeiffer, S Bielfeldt, K-P Wilhelm, R Wohlfart, P Staib
OBJECTIVE: Xerosis is a serious problem among the very old. It is a dermatological challenge caused by significant alterations in stratum corneum (SC) function and structure. Two negative changes in aged skin are (i) the enhanced skin surface pH and (ii) the altered SC lipid content, composition and ordering. METHODS: Therefore, we investigated the way in which an acidic skin care product with different plant oils affects SC function, structure and lipid profile in older subjects with dry skin...
October 12, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Purva Thatai, Bharti Sapra
The human nail is one of the challenging membrane for the scientists to target and to improve the clinical efficacy of ungual formulations. The understanding of nail physiology, impact of hydration on its properties and presence of trace elements in nails as biomarkers has been explored by various researchers in clinical studies. Despite the importance of biophysical techniques for the assessment of structure and physiology of nail, minimum literature analyzes biophysical, biochemical and bioanalytical approaches...
October 6, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Christopher Berkey, Krysta Biniek, Reinhold H Dauskardt
OBJECTIVE: Solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation is ubiquitous in human life and well-known to cause skin damage that can lead to harmful conditions such as erythema. Although sunscreen is a popular form of protection for some of these conditions, it is unclear if sunscreen can maintain the mechanical barrier properties of skin. The objective of this study is to determine if in vitro thin film mechanics techniques adapted for biological tissue are able to characterize the efficacy of commonly used UV inhibitors and commercial sunscreens to protect the biomechanical barrier properties of stratum corneum (SC) from UV exposure...
September 29, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Frederic Flament, Huixia Qiu
OBJECTIVES: These were two-fold: i) to record through standardized pictures, the possible changes in 31 facial signs induced, in a 6-month period, by the periodical shift from winter to summer in a group of 43 Chinese women and ii) to appraise the preventive effects of a strong photo-protective product, daily applied to the faces of an additional group (N=40) of women of same age-range and presenting same severities of facial signs in winter. METHODS: Facial signs (structural and pigmentation-related) were scored in blind by a panel of 12 experts from photographs taken under standard conditions...
September 28, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Seok-Jin Lee, Young Hoon Son, Ki Back Lee, Jin-Haeng Lee, Hyo-Jun Kim, Eui Man Jeong, Sang Chul Park, In-Gyu Kim
OBJECTIVE: 4-n-butylresorcinol is a competitive inhibitor of tyrosinase and has been used as an anti-melanogenic agent. However, its inhibition mechanism in intact cells is not fully understood. To elucidate the cellular mechanism, we compared in vitro and in vivo inhibitory effects of 4-n-butylresorcinol on tyrosinase activity. METHODS: B16F10 melanoma cells were cultured in media containing αMSH in the presence or absence of 4-n-butylresorcinol. Tyrosinase mRNA levels, protein levels, and activity in B16F10 cells were compared by real-time PCR, immunostaining combined with western blot, and colorimetric analysis, respectively...
September 26, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
K Jung, R J C Everson, B Joshi, P A Bulsara, R Upasani, M J Clarke
OBJECTIVES: The present work analyzed the antioxidative activity of phenol-based antioxidants by using an Electron Spin Resonance method to predict the activity and stability of these antioxidants in cosmetic products. METHODS: The Antioxidative Power (AP) method was chosen to measure both the capacity and kinetics of an antioxidative reaction by detecting the DPPH (diphenylpicrylhydrazyl) radical. The antioxidative capacity (wc ) relates to the amount of free radicals that can be reduced, whereas the antioxidative reactivity (tr ) relates to the reaction speed and offers a fingerprinting of the redox state of the antioxidant molecules...
September 19, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Pallav A Bulsara, Peter Varlashkin, Jason Dickens, David J Moore, Anthony Vincent Rawlings, Martyn J Clarke
OBJECTIVE: The focus of this communication is the study of phospholipid structured-emulsions whose phase behavior is modified with monoalkyl fatty amphiphiles. Ideally these systems would mimic key physical and structural attributes observed in human stratum corneum (SC)(7) so that they better alleviate xerotic skin conditions. METHODS: Phosphatidylcholine structured emulsions were prepared and their phase behavior modified with monoalkyl fatty amphiphiles. The effect of molecular volume, acyl chain length and head-group interactions was studied using a combination of physical methods...
September 10, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
J M Dyer, S R Haines, A Thomas, W Wang, R J Walls, S Clerens, D P Harland
OBJECTIVE: Exposure to UV in humans resulting in sunburn triggers a complex series of events that are a mix of immediate and delayed damage mediation and healing. While studies on the effects of UV exposure on DNA damage and repair have been reported, changes in the oxidative modification of skin proteins are poorly understood at the molecular level, despite the important role played by structural proteins in skin tissue, and the effect of the integrity of these proteins on skin appearance and health...
September 10, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
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