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International Journal of Cosmetic Science

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https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28594472/gel-network-shampoo-formulation-and-hair-health-benefits
#1
Jennifer M Marsh, Mark Brown, Tim Felts, Howard Hutton, Mike Vatter, Shane Whitaker, Fred Wireko, Peter Styczynski, Chuiying Li, Ian Henry
OBJECTIVE: The objective of this work was to create a shampoo formula that contains a stable ordered gel network structure that delivers fatty alcohols inside hair. METHODS: X-ray diffraction (SAXS and WAXS), SEM and DSC have been used to confirm formation of the ordered Lβ gel network with fatty alcohol (cetyl and stearyl alcohol) and an anionic surfactant (SLE1S). Micro autoradiography and extraction methods using GC-MS were used to confirm penetration of fatty alcohols into hair and cyclic fatigue testing was used to measure hair strength...
June 8, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28574180/topical-equol-preparation-improves-structural-and-molecular-skin-parameters
#2
U Magnet, Chr Urbanek, D Gaisberger, E Tomeva, E Dum, A Pointner, A G Haslberger
OBJECTIVE: Equol has been shown to improve skin health and regeneration, due to its antioxidative, phytoestrogenic and epigenetic characteristics. The effects of a topical intervention on skin structure, telomere length and epigenetic markers in skin cells were analysed. METHODS: 64 participants were divided in four groups and three of them treated topically with: emulsion with Equol powder (Isoflavandiol-E-55-RS(®) ); emulsion with microencapsulated Equol (Vesisorb(®) Isoflavandiol-E-55-RS(®) ) and an emulsion with lecithin (Vesisorb(®) placebo)...
June 2, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28563677/forearm-skin-aging-characterization-by-instrumental-measurements
#3
Prs Carvalho, J M Sumita, J L M Soares, Sanudo A, Bagatin E
The intrinsic aging and photoaged skin presents biomechanical and morphological differences, which are reflected in the appearance of roughness, superficial and deep wrinkles, atrophy, reduced elasticity, hypo and hyperpigmentation and actinic keratosis OBJECTIVE: To evaluate and compare the characteristics of the flexor (with a predominance of intrinsic aging) and extensor (chronically exposed to sunlight and other environmental factors, with a predominance of photoaging) skin surfaces of the forearms METHODS: Interventional, prospective, diagnostic study, including 23 females, aged over 60 years...
May 31, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28555924/physical-mechanical-characterization-of-cosmetic-formulations-and-correlation-between-instrumental-measurements-and-sensorial-properties
#4
Lívia Salomão Calixto, Patrícia M B G Maia Campos
OBJECTIVE: The correct choice of raw materials in the development of cosmetic formulations is essential for obtaining stable and pleasant skin care products. Therefore, rheological, texture and sensory analyses are important to understand the behavior and stability of the formulations. In this context, the aim of the present study was to develop cosmetic formulations containing or not (vehicle) UV filters and chicory root extract, to evaluate their stability as well as to characterize their physical and texture properties and correlate them with the sensory attributes...
May 28, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28543784/improvement-of-hydration-and-epidermal-barrier-function-in-human-skin-by-a-novel-compound-isosorbide-dicaprylate
#5
Ratan K Chaudhuri, Krzysztof Bojanowski
OBJECTIVE: The study involved the synthesis of a novel derivative of caprylic acid - isosorbide dicaprylate (IDC) - and the evaluation of its potential in improving water homeostasis and epidermal barrier function in human skin. METHODS: The effect of IDC on gene expression was assayed in skin organotypic cultures by DNA microarrays. The results were then confirmed for a few key genes by quantitative PCR, immuno- and cytochemistry. Final validation of skin hydration properties was obtained by four separate clinical studies...
May 24, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28493610/fractionated-aliphatic-alcohols-as-synthetic-precursors-of-ultra-long-chain-monoacylglycerols-for-cosmetic-applications
#6
Bianca Pérez, Bjørn S Hansen, Pallav A Bulsara, Anthony Vincent Rawlings, Martyn J Clarke, Zheng Guo
BACKGROUND: Xerosis is an abnormally dry and flaky skin condition that is associated with a change in the packing behavior of the lipid matrix in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. This skin condition can lead to an increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Since ultralong chain fatty acids have a positive effect on maintaining the packing behavior of the SC lipid matrix, a moisturizer which contains glycerides of ultralong chain fatty acids could act as an semi-occlusive layer on the surface of the skin...
May 11, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28488331/terminalia-ferdinandiana-exell-extracts-inhibit-the-growth-of-body-odour-forming-bacteria
#7
Kane McManus, Aiden Wood, Mitchell Henry Wright, Ben Matthews, Anthony Carlson Greene, Ian Edwin Cock
OBJECTIVE: T. ferdinandiana extracts are potent growth inhibitors of many bacterial pathogens. They may also inhibit the growth of malodour producing bacteria and thus be useful deodorant components, although this is yet to be tested. METHODS: T. ferdinandiana fruit and leaf solvent extracts were investigated by disc diffusion and liquid dilution MIC assays against the most significant bacterial contributors to axillary and plantar malodour formation. Toxicity was determined using the Artemia franciscana nauplii bioassay...
May 10, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28403533/towards-satisfying-performance-of-an-o-w-cosmetic-emulsion-screening-of-reformulation-factors-on-textural-and-rheological-properties-using-general-experimental-design
#8
M Filipovic, M Lukic, S Djordjevic, V Krstonosic, I Pantelic, G Vuleta, S Savic
OBJECTIVE: Consumers' demand for improved products' performance, alongside with the obligation of meeting the safety and efficacy goals, presents a key reason for the reformulation, as well as a challenging task for formulators. Any change of the formulation, whether it is wanted - in order to innovate the product (new actives and raw materials) or necessary - due to, e.g., legislative changes (restriction of ingredients), ingredients market unavailability, new manufacturing equipment, etc...
April 12, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28382675/new-test-method-for-the-evaluation-of-the-preservation-efficacy-of-soaps-at-very-alkaline-ph-made-by-saponification
#9
S Témoin-Fardini, J Servant, S Sellam
OBJECTIVE: The aim of this study was to develop a test method to evaluate the preservation efficacy for a specific product, a very high-alkaline liquid soap (pH around 10) made by a saponification process. Several manufacturers have experienced contamination issues with these high-pH soaps despite passing a classic preservative efficacy challenge test or even a multi-inoculation challenge test. METHODS: Bacteria were isolated from contaminated soaps and were identified using 16S rRNA gene sequencing...
April 6, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28375586/a-dissociation-in-judgements-of-confidence-in-people-with-dandruff-based-on-self-reports-compared-to-reports-from-other-observers
#10
A Godbehere, L McDonald, F Baines, C A M Sutherland, T J Andrews
OBJECTIVE: It is not clear how well evaluations made by other people correspond with self-evaluations of esteem or confidence. To address this question, we compared measurements of confidence in participants with and without dandruff. METHODS: Participants with dandruff were significantly different from healthy control participants on a quality of life measure of scalp dermatitis, but not on self-evaluations of esteem or confidence. To determine whether there were differences in the evaluation of confidence by others, both groups of participants were videoed while they prepared for or gave a presentation in an interview scenario...
April 4, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/27643384/structure-function-relationship-of-phenolic-antioxidants-in-topical-skin-health-products
#11
K Jung, R J C Everson, B Joshi, P A Bulsara, R Upasani, M J Clarke
OBJECTIVES: The present work analysed the antioxidative activity of phenol-based antioxidants using an electron spin resonance method to predict the activity and stability of these antioxidants in cosmetic products. METHODS: The antioxidative power (AP) method was chosen to measure both the capacity and kinetics of an antioxidative reaction by detecting the DPPH (diphenylpicrylhydrazyl) radical. The antioxidative capacity (wc ) relates to the amount of free radicals that can be reduced, whereas the antioxidative reactivity (tr ) relates to the reaction speed and offers a fingerprinting of the redox state of the antioxidant molecules...
April 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28337779/the-chemistry-function-patho-physiology-of-stratum-corneum-barrier-ceramides
#12
REVIEW
David J Moore, Anthony V Rawlings
Research on understanding of the chemistry, function and (patho)physiology of stratum corneum (SC) lipids and especially ceramides has evolved over the last two decades. This has been made successful through the application of separation techniques that have become increasingly more sophisticated and it has become increasingly evident that our understanding of these molecules remains in its infancy. Thirteen classes of ceramides with over 300 and possibly up to 1000 distinct ceramide species have been identified suggesting an exquisitely subtle relationship between the types of ceramides and physical and chemical behavior...
March 24, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28295411/how-a-working-day-induced-tiredness-may-alter-some-facial-signs-in-differently-aged-caucasian-women
#13
Flament Frederic, Pierre Julien, Delhommeau Karine, Adam Anne-Sophie
OBJECTIVES: To assess the alterations of some facial clinical signs after a working day in French Caucasian women. METHODS: Standardized photographs of full faces of 111 women of two different age-classes were taken before and after a working day. Photos were submitted in blind (morning or evening) to a panel of 10 experts for scoring the severity of 8 different facial signs using specific scales as established by previously published referential skin atlases. A panel of 60 naïve women gave their assessment of the overall look (more or less tired, aged, dull) from paired (morning/evening) photos given in blind...
March 15, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28295406/lipid-based-submicron-capsules-as-a-strategy-to-include-high-concentrations-of-a-hydrophobic-lightening-agent-in-a-hydrogel
#14
H T P Nguyen, M Soucé, X Perse, F Vial, T Perrier, F Yvergnaux, I Chourpa, E Munnier
OBJECTIVE: This study aimed at increasing the concentration of a hydrophobic lightening agent, Omegalight(®) , in a hydrophilic cosmetic product by means of encapsulation in lipid-based submicron capsules. The core of these capsules is entirely made of the commercial lightening agent. METHODS: Lipid-based encapsulation systems (LNC) were prepared by the PIT method. Their physicochemical properties were followed over 6 months by dynamic light scattering and zeta potential measurements, and in parallel, the potential degradation of the active ingredient was monitored by HPLC...
March 15, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28295359/the-perplexing-dilemma-of-measuring-sun-protection-factors
#15
Marc Pissavini, Brian Diffey, Olivier Doucet
Truth, like knowledge, is surprisingly difficult to define. Indeed, every definition of truth that philosophers have developed falls prey to the question, "Is it true?". In this essay we consider what is the true SPF of a sunscreen product and whether it can ever be realizable. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.
March 15, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28267214/the-effect-of-additives-on-release-and-in-vitro-skin-retention-of-flavonoids-from-emulsion-and-gel-semisolid-formulations
#16
Renata Dyja, Andrzej Jankowski
OBJECTIVE: To assess the effect of two different additives (propylene glycol (PG) and polyethylene glycol 400 (PEG 400)) on release and in vitro skin retention of quercetin and chrysin from semisolid bases (amphiphilic creams and acidic carbomer gels). METHODS: For obtaining semisolid formulations, flavonoids were pre-dissolved in the liquid (PG or PEG 400) or directly suspended in the semisolid base. Three chrysin formulations ('cream 0', 'PG-cream', 'PEG 400-cream') and five quercetin formulations ('cream 0', 'PG cream', 'PEG 400 cream', 'gel 0', 'PG gel') were prepared...
March 7, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28267210/skin-delivery-of-hydrophilic-molecules-from-liposomes-and-polysaccharide-coated-liposomes
#17
N Belhaj, E Arab-Tehrany, E Loing, C Bézivin
OBJECTIVES: Liposomes are commonly used in cosmetic formulations to increase the bioavailability of active ingredients. We have previously shown that polysaccharide coating of liposomes improves their resistance to surfactants and electrolytes. In the current study, we have assessed the impact of coating on the skin penetration enhancer properties of liposomes. METHODS: The physicochemical properties of coated liposomes (Ionosomes™) were evaluated before and after encapsulation of two different hydrophilic molecules (caffeine and a hexapeptide), and compared to those observed with non-coated liposomes...
March 7, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28178365/development-and-clinical-validation-of-a-novel-photography-based-skin-erythema-evaluation-system-a-comparison-with-the-calculated-consensus-of-dermatologists
#18
M Cho, D-H Lee, E J Doh, Y Kim, J H Chung, H C Kim, S Kim
Erythema is the most common presenting sign of skin conditions [1,2]. Erythema reflects the degree of inflammation associated with various diseases, such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and lupus erythematosus; it is also cosmetically troublesome in subjects with flushing, rosacea, and photoaging [3,4]. In addition, there are vascular disorders that present with erythema, such as nevus flammeus, telangiectasia, and post-acne erythema [5]. Various therapeutic devices, medicines, and cosmetics have been developed to improve these dermatological conditions [6,7]...
February 8, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/27380298/design-synthesis-and-characterization-of-linear-unnatural-amino-acids-for-skin-moisturization
#19
N R Arezki, A C Williams, A J A Cobb, M B Brown
OBJECTIVES: This work aimed to design, synthesize and characterize replacement natural moisturizing factor (NMF) composed of modified hygroscopic linear amino acids to pre-empt or repair skin barrier dysfunction. METHODS: Following synthesis and characterization, thermo-gravimetric analysis and quantum mechanics molecular modelling quantified and depicted water binding to the new compounds. Deliquescence relative humidity demonstrated the water-scavenging ability of the compounds, whereas snake skin moisturizing studies showed they increased water uptake into snake skin...
February 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/27261203/molecular-basis-of-retinol-anti-ageing-properties-in-naturally-aged-human-skin-in-vivo
#20
Y Shao, T He, G J Fisher, J J Voorhees, T Quan
OBJECTIVE: Retinoic acid has been shown to improve the aged-appearing skin. However, less is known about the anti-ageing effects of retinol (ROL, vitamin A), a precursor of retinoic acid, in aged human skin in vivo. This study aimed to investigate the molecular basis of ROL anti-ageing properties in naturally aged human skin in vivo. METHODS: Sun-protected buttock skin (76 ± 6 years old, n = 12) was topically treated with 0.4% ROL and its vehicle for 7 days. The effects of topical ROL on skin epidermis and dermis were evaluated by immunohistochemistry, in situ hybridization, Northern analysis, real-time RT-PCR and Western analysis...
February 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
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