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International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Nadine Yossa, Gabriela Arce, James Smiley, Mei-Chiung Jo Huang, Lanlan Yin, Rebecca Bell, Sandra Tallent, Eric Brown, Thomas Hammack
OBJECTIVE: Pathogenic contamination of cosmetics intended to be applied on or around the eye area, including make-up removers, may lead to severe eye infections. To assess the efficacy of antimicrobial preservatives in these products we investigated the survival and detection of Bacillus cereus F 4227A spiked into make-up removers, alone and in the presence of other relevant microorganisms. METHODS: Four brands of make-up removers, A, B, C and D, were challenged three times (day 0, day 7, and day 14) using B...
October 14, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Guillaume Cassin, Stephane Diridollou, Frederic Flament, Anne-Sophie Adam, Patricia Pierre, Loic Colomb, Jean-Luc Morancais, Huixia Qiu
OBJECTIVE: To explore, in vitro and in vivo, the potential interest of an Aerogel-based formula, in concealing a naturally shiny facial skin. METHODS: In vitro, various formulae and ingredients were applied as a thin film onto contrast plates and studied through measuring the shine induced following pump spraying of a mixture of oleic acid and mineral water as a sebum/sweat mix model. In such a test, an Aerogel ingredient led to very positive results. In vivo, two different formulae with various concentrations of Aerogel were randomly tested on half side of the face vs...
October 10, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Philip W Wertz
ω-Hydroxyacids are fatty acids bearing a hydroxyl group on the terminal carbon. They are found in mammals and higher plants and are often involved in providing a permeability barrier, the primary purpose of which is to reduce water loss. Some ω-hydroxyacid derivatives may be involved in water proofing and signaling. The purpose of this review is to survey the known natural sources of ω-hydroxyacids. ω -Hydroxyacids are produced by two different P450-dependent mechanisms. The longer (30 - 34 carbons) ω-hydroxyacids are produced by chain extension from palmitic acid until the chain extends across the membrane in which the extension is taking place, and then the terminal carbon is hydroxylated...
October 10, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Loïc Colomb, Frederic Flament, Anupama Wagle, Divya Agrawal
BACKGROUND: India is a large country (a subcontinent) of about 3.3 million km(2) that covers large ranges in latitude and longitude. The last Indian census counted about 1.21 billion of inhabitants of many origins, creating a vast human diversity and skin types, the variability of which having been previously established. The present study aimed at deepening this knowledge through a set of biophysical measurements to describe, along the skin ageing process, the specificities of various Indian subjects living in different geographical locations...
September 30, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
A Kuzuhara
OBJECTIVE: The objective of our research was to investigate the reduction mechanism of thioglycerol (TG) on hair keratin fibres. METHODS: The structure of cross-sections at various depths of virgin white human hair resulting from the permanent waving process with TG was directly analyzed at the molecular level using Raman spectroscopy. Also, the penetration of TG for the cross-sectional samples dyed with methylene blue was observed by optical microscopy. RESULTS: The gauche-gauche-gauche (GGG) and gauche-gauche-trans (GGT) conformations of disulfide (-SS-) groups remarkably decreased, while the trans-gauche-trans (TGT) conformation increased by performing the reduction process with TG...
September 18, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Kaori Yanase, Ichiro Hatta
OBJECTIVE: Surfactants are major ingredients of body soaps and cleansers. Among them, harsh ones have been demonstrated to damage the skin. Stratum corneum (SC), the outermost barrier of skin layer, is rich in intercellular lipids. This lipid structure can be disrupted by surfactants, impairing the barrier function of the skin. Thus, we investigated the surfactant-induced disruption of the intercellular lipid structure of human SC at the molecular level using synchrotron X-ray diffraction...
September 18, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Anthony Galliano, Jean Yves Kempf, Maxime Fougere, Mara Applebaum, Leszek J Wolfram, Howard Maibach
OBJECTIVES: The study i) compared sense of touch between a naïve and an expert panels, under visual or blind conditions, using differently treated hair swatches, ii) explored possible common wordings used by both panels and their possible links with some physical properties of hairs. METHODS: Two sets of 15 hair swatches of Caucasian and Chinese origins were differently treated (bleached, permed, brushed, etc) or organized (root-tip vs tip-root). These were evaluated by tactile assessments by two panels (105 naïve consumers and 10 hair experts) under visual or blind conditions, in two geographic locations...
September 16, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Frederic Flament, Brigitte Gautier, Amelie-Marie Benize, Aude Charbonneau, Matthieu Cassier
OBJECTIVES: These were two-fold: i) to record through standardized pictures, the possible changes in 14 facial signs induced, in a 6-month period, by the periodical shift from winter to summer in a group of 42 Caucasian women residing in Paris and ii) to appraise the preventive effects of a strong photo-protective product, daily applied to their face by an additional group (N=40) of women of same age-range and presenting same severities of facial signs in winter. METHODS: Facial signs (structural and pigmentation-related) were graded in blind by a panel of 12 experts from photographs taken under standard conditions...
September 8, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Rainer Voegeli, Jean-Marc Monneuse, Rotraut Schoop, Beverley Summers, Anthony V Rawlings
BACKGROUND: The effect of photodamage on facial stratum corneum (SC) is still poorly understood. OBJECTIVE: To describe the SC proteome from tape strippings of Caucasian SC from photoexposed cheek and photoprotected post auricular (PA) site a global analysis of photodamage on the skin will be developed leading to a better understanding of keratinocyte signalling pathways and identification of new molecular targets for the treatment of photoaged skin. METHODS: Female Caucasian subjects had 9 consecutive tape strippings taken from their cheeks and PA site...
September 2, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Florence Pouradier, Chen Liu, John Wares, Emilie Yokoyama, Catherine Collaudin, Ségolène Panhard, Didier Saint-Léger, Geneviève Loussouarn
OBJECTIVE: The re-greasing process and kinetics of the human scalp, post shampooing, has been previously documented, in vivo, on a few Caucasian subjects. The objective of the presented research is to extend such knowledge over 7 different ethnic groups. METHODS: The post shampooing re-greasing kinetics of the scalp was studied on 1325 subjects (women and men of two distinct age classes) from 7 different ethnic groups in their residential and native country. Sebum amounts were determined onto small shaved scalp areas at various times post shampooing, using the Sebumeter(®) technique...
September 2, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Marina Mendes Fossa Shirata, Patrícia M B G Maia Campos
OBJECTIVE: Considering that many cosmetic products contain UV filters in their composition and that few studies have evaluated the role of UV filters in the physical properties and clinical efficacy of these products, the aim of the present study was to assess the influence of UV filters on the properties and immediate effects of a cosmetic formulation. METHODS: Four cosmetic formulations, vehicle (V), vehicle containing UV filters (F), vehicle containing cassava polysaccharides and alfalfa (A) oligosaccharides and vehicle containing UV filters plus cassava polysaccharides and alfalfa oligosaccharides (multifunctional formulation, M) were developed...
September 2, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Philippe Mondon, Caroline Ringenbach, Emmanuel Doridot, Viviane Genet, Pascaline Criton
OBJECTIVE: Senkyunolide-A (SENKY) can be isolated from Apium graveolens seed oil obtained using supercritical CO2 extraction. SENKY and its parent compounds, the N-butyl phthalides, have been demonstrated to protect cells from CO poisoning, to prevent diabetes mellitus and to decrease cancer cell proliferation. This study was undertaken to evaluate in vitro and in vivo the effect of SENKY on epidermal function improvement, Malassezia effect control, scalp soothing and dandruff reduction via skin protection related pathways...
August 18, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Anthony Galliano, Chengda Ye, Fengjie Su, Chad Wang, Yin Wang, Chen Liu, Anupama Wagle, Myriam Guerin, Frédéric Flament, Andrew Steel
BACKGROUND: The deposit and adherence of particulate matter (PM's) from aerial pollution onto the surface of human hair is a poorly studied phenomenon. OBJECTIVES: i) To reproduce in vitro the deposit of known PM's on standardized hair swatches in a closed box, ii) to compare in vitro data with those obtained under "real life" conditions of severe aerial pollution, iii) to assess the changes of the hair surface properties, potentially caused by the adherence of airborne PM's onto the hair...
July 26, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
J M Crowther
OBJECTIVE: Methods which assess skin moisturization based on changes in its electrical properties are widely used in both cosmetic and medical research industries. However, the devices themselves often give results which are significantly different to each other. Recently two-dimensional imaging moisturization systems have become commercially available, which have the capability to provide a more detailed assessment of what is contributing to measured skin moisturization. Presented here is a new in vitro method for preparing textured model test substrates for use with these devices, and results of their use to provide a clearer insight into the devices operation...
October 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
M Fujii, M Inoue, T Fukami
OBJECTIVE: Quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants (ACSs) and N-[3-alkyl(12,14)oxy-2-hydroxypropyl]-l-arginine hydrochloride (N-AOHPA) were used to emulsify silicone. The potential of the resulting emulsions in hair conditioning products was investigated. METHODS: The emulsions were prepared using a homogenizer and/or high-pressure homogenizer. ACSs and N-AOHPA were used as silicone emulsifiers. The stability of the emulsions was evaluated by measuring particle sizes, creaming fractions, polydispersity indexes and zeta potentials...
October 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Z Jovanovic, T Schornstein, A Sutor, G Neufang, R Hagens
OBJECTIVE: This study aimed to assess sunscreen application habits and relative body coverage after single whole body application. METHODS: Fifty-two healthy volunteers were asked to use the test product once, following their usual sunscreen application routine. Standardized UV photographs, which were evaluated by Image Analysis, were conducted before and immediately after product application to evaluate relative body coverage. In addition to these procedures, the volunteers completed an online self-assessment questionnaire to assess sunscreen usage habits...
October 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
J M Marsh, M A Brown, T J Felts, H D Hutton, M L Vatter, S Whitaker, F C Wireko, P B Styczynski, C Li, I D Henry
OBJECTIVE: The objective of this work was to create a shampoo formula that contains a stable ordered gel network structure that delivers fatty alcohols inside hair. METHODS: X-ray diffraction (SAXS and WAXS), SEM and DSC have been used to confirm formation of the ordered Lβ gel network with fatty alcohol (cetyl and stearyl alcohols) and an anionic surfactant (SLE1S). Micro-autoradiography and extraction methods using GC-MS were used to confirm penetration of fatty alcohols into hair, and cyclic fatigue testing was used to measure hair strength...
October 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
U Magnet, C Urbanek, D Gaisberger, E Tomeva, E Dum, A Pointner, A G Haslberger
OBJECTIVE: Equol has been shown to improve skin health and regeneration, due to its antioxidative, phytoestrogenic and epigenetic characteristics. The effects of a topical intervention on skin structure, telomere length and epigenetic markers in skin cells were analysed. METHODS: Sixty-four participants were divided in four groups and three of them treated topically with the following: emulsion with Equol powder (Isoflavandiol-E-55-RS®); emulsion with microencapsulated Equol (Vesisorb® Isoflavandiol-E-55-RS®) and an emulsion with lecithin (Vesisorb® placebo)...
October 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
P R S Carvalho, J M Sumita, J L M Soares, A Sanudo, E Bagatin
BACKGROUND: The intrinsic ageing and photoaged skin present biomechanical and morphological differences, which are reflected in the appearance of roughness, superficial and deep wrinkles, atrophy, reduced elasticity, hypo- and hyperpigmentation and actinic keratosis. OBJECTIVE: To evaluate and compare the characteristics of the flexor (with a predominance of intrinsic ageing) and extensor (chronically exposed to sunlight and other environmental factors, with a predominance of photoageing) skin surfaces of the forearms...
October 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
L S Calixto, P M B G Maia Campos
OBJECTIVE: The correct choice of raw materials in the development of cosmetic formulations is essential for obtaining stable and pleasant skin care products. Therefore, rheological, texture and sensory analyses are important to understand the behaviour and stability of the formulations. In this context, the aim of this study was to develop cosmetic formulations containing or not (vehicle) UV filters and chicory root extract, to evaluate their stability as well as to characterize their physical and texture properties and correlate them with the sensory attributes...
October 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
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