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International Journal of Cosmetic Science

M Pissavini, C Tricaud, G Wiener, A Lauer, M Contier, L Kolbe, C Trullás Cabanas, F Boyer, V Nollent, E Meredith, E Dietrich, P J Matts
OBJECTIVE: The objective of this work was to investigate the utility of a new in vitro SPF test method in blinded ring-testing, against new ISO acceptance criteria. METHODS: 24 blinded, commercial, emulsion-type, primary sunscreen products, covering the full range of labelled SPF in Europe (SPF6 - 50+), were tested by 3 test institutes using the current ISO24444:2010 In Vivo SPF Test Method and simultaneously by 3 separate test laboratories using a new candidate in vitro SPF test method, developed under the leadership of Cosmetics Europe (CE)...
April 20, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Da Jung Jo, Jin Kyung Seok, So Youn Kim, Woncheol Park, Ji Hwoon Baek, Young Mi Kim, Yong Chool Boo
Resveratryl triglycolate (RTG) is a hybrid compound derived by the esterification of resveratrol with glycolic acid. This compound has been previously shown to inhibit cellular melanin synthesis in vitro. The present study aimed to examine the in vivo skin-depigmenting efficacy of RTG in human participants. In total, 22 women aged between 25 and 49 years with Fitzpatrick skin type III or IV were enrolled. Their forearms were exposed to UV to induce artificial pigmentation. The test product containing 0.4% RTG, or the control product was applied twice daily for up to 8 weeks after the artificial pigmentation...
April 17, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
M Melgosa, N Richard, C Fernández-Maloigne, K Xiao, H de Clermont-Gallerande, S Jost-Boissard, K Okajima
OBJECTIVE: To provide an approach to facial contrast, analysing CIELAB colour differences (ΔE*ab,10 ) and its components in women's faces from two different ethnic groups, illuminated by modern white light-emitting diodes (LEDs) or traditional illuminants recommended by the International Commission on Illumination (CIE). METHODS: We performed spectrophotometric measurements of spectral reflectance factors on forehead and cheek of 87 young healthy women (50 Caucasians and 37 Orientals), plus 5 commercial red lipsticks...
April 10, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
G Kang, T N T Tu, S Kim, H Yang, M Jang, D Jo, J Rye, J Baek, H Jung
OBJECTIVE: Although dissolving microneedle patches have been widely studied in the cosmetics field, no comparisons have been drawn with the topical applications available for routine use. In this study, two wrinkle-improving products, adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches and an adenosine cream, were evaluated for efficacy, with respect to skin wrinkling, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration, and safety in a clinical test on the crow's feet area. METHODS: Clinical efficacy and safety tests were performed for 10 weeks on 22 female subjects with wrinkles around their eyes...
March 25, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Myriam Sohn, Camille Malburet, Galip Caliskan, Andreas Büchse, Julie Grumelard, Marion Chambert, Bernd Herzog
OBJECTIVE: Water resistance retention (WRR) is the third performance attribute of sunscreens. Today, the standardized method for testing WRR is performed in vivo. For screening purposes, an in vitro method is highly preferable. Up to now, however, available methods have failed in accurately predicting in vivo WRR. In this paper, we examine a novel in vitro approach aimed at enhancing in vivo prediction of WRR. METHODS: We investigated two approaches, including a traditional procedure referred to as the "plate method," which involves measuring in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) before and after water immersion, and a new approach termed the "solution method...
March 25, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
A Orchard, S F van Vuuren, A Viljoen, Guy Kamatou
OBJECTIVE: The study investigated the efficacy of commercial essential oil combinations against the two pathogens responsible for acne with the aim to identify synergy and favourable oils to possibly use in a blend. METHODS AND MATERIALS: Antimicrobial activity was assessed using the minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) assay against Staphylococcus epidermidis (ATCC 2223) and Propionibacterium acnes (ATCC 11827), and the fractional inhibitory concentration index (ΣFIC) was calculated...
March 24, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
D Guneri, R Voegeli, S J Gurgul, M R Munday, A V Rawlings
BACKGROUND: The maturity of the corneocyte envelope (CE) provides information about the barrier functionality of the stratum corneum (SC). Corneocytes are enclosed by the CE, a protein-lipid matrix, contributing to mechanical resistance and hydrophobicity of the SC. OBJECTIVES: The aim of the work was to develop a novel and robust approach to characterize CE maturity based on rigidity, hydrophobicity, and surface area. This offers an alternative approach to the Nile red staining and antigenicity of involucrin to characterise the CE...
March 23, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Vivian Saez, Ingrid D L de Souza, Cláudia Regina Elias Mansur
The antioxidative and photoprotective properties of vitamin E have caused it to be included as an active agent in various pharmaceutical and cosmetic products. However, its lipophilicity, chemical instability, and poor skin penetration have limited the effectiveness of these formulations. For that reason, many attempts to include it in different drug delivery systems have been made. In recent decades, lipid nanoparticles have received special attention due to their advantages of compatibility with the skin, ability to enhance penetration of drugs in the stratum corneum, protection of the encapsulated substance against degradation induced by the external medium, and control of drug release...
March 5, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Bernhard Fink, Paul J Matts, Christina Brauckmann, Sina Gundlach
OBJECTIVE: Previous studies investigating the effects of skin surface topography and colouration cues on perception of female faces reported a differential weighting for perception of skin topography and colour evenness, where topography was a stronger visual cue for perception of age, whereas skin colour evenness was a stronger visual cue for perception of health. We extend these findings in a study of the effect of skin surface topography and colour evenness cues on perceptions of facial age, health, and attractiveness in males...
February 22, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Remo Campiche, Petra Sandau, Elke Kurth, Marco Massironi, Dominik Imfeld, Rolf Schuetz
BACKGROUND: Skin aging results from intrinsic but also extrinsic factors of which UV-irradiation is a main cause. It is hence of interest to have means to protect skin from UV -irradiation induced damage. We selected an extract of the freshwater microalga Scenedesmus rubescens and assessed its potential to protect skin from photoaging caused by UV-irradiation. METHODS: Skin cells in-vitro and ex-vivo were analyzed for markers of UV-irradiation induced photodamage such as decreased viability, decreased collagen content, hyperpigmentation, and sunburn cells...
February 13, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
T Tohgasaki, N Ozawa, T Yoshino, S Ishiwatari, S Matsukuma, S Yanagi, H Fukuda
OBJECTIVE: Previous studies have shown that enolase-1 (ENO1) in the stratum corneum (SC) is more highly expressed in patients with atopic dermatitis (AD) than in healthy individuals, suggesting that it is a novel biomarker for evaluating skin condition in patients with AD. However, the mechanism underlying high ENO1 expression in the SC and its pathological relevance in AD are unclear. In this study, the relationship between ENO1 expression and keratinization of epidermis was investigated, and the role of high ENO1 expression in keratinocytes was characterized...
February 11, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Jacques L'Haridon, Patricia Martz, Jean-Charles Cheneble, Jean Florent Campion, Laurent Colombe
OBJECTIVE: This article describes an easy-to-use eco-design methodology developed and applied since 2014 by the L'Oréal Group to improve the sustainable performance of its new products without any compromise on their cosmetic efficacy. METHODS: Cosmetic products, after being used, are often discharged into the sewers and the aquatic compartment. This discharge is considered as dispersive and continuous. A consistent progress in reducing the environmental impact of cosmetic products can be achieved through focusing upon three strategic indicators: biodegradability, grey water footprint adapted for eco-design (GWFE) and a global indicator, complementary to these two endpoints...
February 6, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
L Li, S Yang, T Chen, L Han, G Lian
OBJECTIVE: In the process of hair treatment, various cationic actives contained in hair care products can be absorbed into hair fibre to modulate the physicochemical properties of hair such as colour, strength, style and volume. There have been very limited studies on the binding and partition properties of hair care actives to hair. This study aimed to investigate the pH effects on cationic solute absorption into hair and binding to keratin. METHODS: The keratin binding and hair partition properties of three cationic solutes (theophylline, nortriptyline and amitriptyline) have been measured at different pH using fluorescence spectroscopy and equilibrium absorption experiment...
February 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
H Ou-Yang, K Meyer, T Houser, G Grove
OBJECTIVE: Sweating plays a critical role in maintaining thermal balance and keeping skin cool during exercise. People often wear sunscreens on hot summer days for sun protection. Most recreational sunscreens are designed to be water- and sweat-resistant, so that sweating will not remove or compromise the protection. The objective of this study was to determine whether wearing sweat-resistant sunscreen might impede natural sweating, potentially interfering with thermal regulation and resulting in the elevation of skin temperature...
February 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
C Monpeurt, E Cinotti, J Razafindrakoto, P Rubegni, M Fimiani, J L Perrot, M Hebert
OBJECTIVE: The colour of a nail polish varies according to the nail on which it is applied. The objective of this study was to predict the colour of the nail polish on a given nail and to study how the colour varies depending on the nail polish thickness. METHODS: Six nail polishes were applied in one, two and three layers on the nails of one subject, thus forming eighteen samples. The spectral reflectances of the eighteen nail polishes applied on the nails with different thicknesses were obtained by spectrophotometry...
February 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
E G Brunt, J G Burgess
The marine environment represents an underexploited resource for the discovery of novel products, despite its high level of biological and chemical diversity. With increasing awareness of the harmful effects of chronic ultraviolet exposure, and a universal desire to improve cosmetic appearance, the market for new cosmetic ingredients is growing, and current trends have generated a greater demand for products sourced from the environment. A growing number of novel molecules from marine flora and fauna exhibit potent and effective dermatological activities...
February 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
G Cassin, S Diridollou, F Flament, A S Adam, P Pierre, L Colomb, J L Morancais, H Qiu
OBJECTIVE: To explore, in vitro and in vivo, the potential interest of an Aerogel-based formula, in concealing a naturally shiny facial skin. METHODS: In vitro, various formulae and ingredients were applied as a thin film onto contrast plates and studied through measuring the shine induced following pump spraying of a mixture of oleic acid and mineral water as a sebum/sweat mix model. In such a test, an Aerogel ingredient led to very positive results. In vivo, two different formulae with various concentrations of Aerogel were randomly tested on half side of the face vs...
February 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
P W Wertz
ω-Hydroxyacids are fatty acids bearing a hydroxyl group on the terminal carbon. They are found in mammals and higher plants and are often involved in providing a permeability barrier, the primary purpose of which is to reduce water loss. Some ω-hydroxyacid derivatives may be involved in waterproofing and signalling. The purpose of this review was to survey the known natural sources of ω-hydroxyacids. ω-Hydroxyacids are produced by two different P450-dependent mechanisms. The longer (30-34 carbons) ω-hydroxyacids are produced by chain extension from palmitic acid until the chain extends across the membrane in which the extension is taking place, and then the terminal carbon is hydroxylated...
February 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
L Colomb, F Flament, A Wagle, D Agrawal
BACKGROUND: India is a large country (a subcontinent) of about 3.3 million km2 that covers large ranges in latitude and longitude. The last Indian census counted about 1.21 billion of inhabitants of many origins, creating a vast human diversity and skin types, the variability of which having been previously established. The present study aimed at deepening this knowledge through a set of biophysical measurements to describe, along the skin ageing process, the specificities of various Indian subjects living in different geographical locations...
February 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
A Kuzuhara
OBJECTIVE: The objective of our research was to investigate the reduction mechanism of thioglycerol (TG) on hair keratin fibres. METHODS: The structure of cross-sections at various depths of virgin white human hair resulting from the permanent waving process with TG was directly analysed at the molecular level using Raman spectroscopy. Also, the penetration of TG for the cross-sectional samples dyed with methylene blue was observed by optical microscopy. RESULTS: The gauche-gauche-gauche (GGG) and gauche-gauche-trans (GGT) conformations of disulphide (-SS-) groups remarkably decreased, while the trans-gauche-trans (TGT) conformation increased by performing the reduction process with TG...
February 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
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