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International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Julien Pierre, Ghislain Francois, Amelie Marie Benize, Virginie Rubert, Julie Coutet, Frederic Flament
OBJECTIVE: To determine the homogeneity in the distribution of two cutaneous functions (hydration and elasticity) along the entire human face. MATERIAL AND METHODS: The half faces (right or left, randomly chosen) of two groups of Caucasian women were measured on 24 different small sites (elasticity) and 41 others (hydration), by instruments of small-sized probes (Cutometer® and Corneometer® , respectively). Hydration of the face was recorded at different times (up to 24 hours), post application of a highly hydrating product...
August 14, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
S New, G Daniels, C L Gummer
OBJECTIVES: It is commonly assumed that, due to the long growth cycle of hair, multi-cycle combing, and strength and fatigue testing using thousands of cycles is relevant for product evaluation and claim substantiation. The objective was to assess the frequency and magnitude of combing forces on individual hairs against a hypothesis that fibres on a consumer's head rarely experience significant loads during routine combing. METHODS: Single fibres were removed from a tress, attached to a load cell and replaced in the tress...
August 4, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Bruno C Sil, David J Moore
Pyridine-3-carboxamide, also known as niacinamide (NIA), is used in many pharmaceutical and personal care formulations for the improvement of skin barrier function, management of acne and amelioration of the symptoms of atopic dermatitis [1-3]. The widespread use of NIA (Table I) in skin care highlights the importance of understanding the percutaneous penetration and skin distribution of this molecule [4]. Previously, we have conducted several studies that have evaluated a wide variety of NIA formulations [4, 5]...
August 4, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Ana Tinoco, José Gonçalves, Carla Silva, Ana Loureiro, Andreia C Gomes, Artur Cavaco-Paulo, Artur Ribeiro
OBJECTIVE: Human hair is an element with unquestionable relevance in society both for women and men. Therefore, it is of great importance to develop new cosmetic products for hair care capable to restore and improve hair's characteristics. Here we explore the potential of keratin-based particles in the protection and recovery of hair mechanical properties and thermal stability. METHODS: Keratin-based particles were obtained by high pressure homogenization (HPH) using keratin and silk fibroin...
July 26, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Denise Wade Rafferty, Laure Dupin, Joseph Zellia, Ann Giovannitti-Jensen
OBJECTIVE: Sensory perceptions and performance are important to the success of a lipstick formulation, but in-vivo evaluation can be expensive and time-consuming. The goal of this work is to develop and use lab test methods to predict the sensory and performance properties of lipstick. METHODS: Twelve model lipstick formulations were prepared, in which only the emollient varied, resulting in a variety of sensory and performance properties. The lipsticks were tested for sensory perceptions of spreadability, stickiness, opacity and gloss with a 9-person panel...
July 26, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Stephan Bielfeldt, Gunja Springmann, Matthias Seise, Klaus-P Wilhelm, Theresa Callaghan
With the advancement of skin research today's consumer has increased access to an informed understanding of aging skin and its appendages, together with a plethora of targeted products to meet such needs. In recent years increased legislative demands for quality evidential claims support has led not only to the development and validation of clinical methods to measure and quantify aging skin, but also a clearer understanding of the skin aging process - especially the impact of both its internal and external environments - as well as a tougher stance on clearly unjustifiable claims...
July 26, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
B L Diffey, C O'Connor, I Marlow, M Bell, M M O'Mahony
OBJECTIVE: To investigate how the UV protection provided by a facial day cream reduces over the course of a day. METHODS: We developed a theoretical model using a Monte Carlo random sampling approach to estimate the variation in local thickness, and hence local effective SPF, at several different sites over the face. The input variables, which are labelled SPF, average application thickness, homogeneity of the product on the skin and the ability of the product to bind to the skin, allow examination of how these different factors affect the delivered photoprotection...
July 8, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
N Yoshioka, K Kurata, T Takahashi, M Ariizumi, T Mori, H Fujisawa, N Kameyama, Y Okuyama
Body odor is mainly caused by secreted sweat. Although sweat is almost odorless immediately after secretion, decomposition or denaturation of components contained in sweat by bacteria on the skin surface contributes to unpleasant body odor. Body odor is due to various substances and aldehydes are primarily detected in body odor [1-4]. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.
June 13, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
D Fagot, D M Pham, J Laboureau, E Planel, L Guerin, C Nègre, M Donovan, B A Bernard
OBJECTIVE: Oxidative stress and low grade chronic inflammation stand out as key features of physiological skin aging. The aim of this study was to examine in normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) and human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) grown in vitro, the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of crocin, a carotenoid glycoside responsible for the color of saffron. Moreover, considering the newly emerging field of skin glycobiology and the presence of two gentiobiosyl moieties in crocin, the effect of crocin on NHEK glycosylation pathways was for the first time investigated...
June 12, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
C Tacheau, F Weisgerber, D Fagot, P Bastien, M P Verdier, M Liboutet, G Sore, B A Bernard
OBJECTIVE: To study the effects of the very high minerality Vichy thermal spring water (VTSW) on human keratinocytes grown in vitro. METHODS: The effect of VTSW was monitored by full genome transcriptomic technology and immunofluorescence microscopy. RESULTS: In the presence of 50% VTSW, the expression of a number of skin homeostasis related genes is increased, specifically with respect to dermal-epidermal junction, epidermal cohesion and communication, keratinocyte proliferation-differentiation balance, antioxidant mechanisms and DNA repair...
June 7, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Rattikorn Intarakumhaeng, Zhanquan Shi, Apipa Wanasathop, Q Ching Stella, Karl S Wei, P B Styczynski, Chuiying Li, Edward D Smith, S Kevin Li
OBJECTIVES: Petrolatum and soybean oil are common ingredients incorporated in topical skin formulations for skin protection and moisturization. However, the stratum corneum (SC) penetration kinetics of these two cosmetic ingredients has not been systematically studied. Glyceryl monooleate (GlyMOle) has been shown to enhance skin penetration of various compounds. It was hypothesized that GlyMOle could enhance skin penetration of petrolatum and soybean oil. The present study aimed to examine the in vitro skin penetration of petrolatum and soybean oil in the presence or absence of GlyMOle...
June 6, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Agnieszka Gunia-Krzyżak, Karolina Słoczyńska, Justyna Popiół, Paulina Koczurkiewicz, Henryk Marona, Elżbieta Pękala
Cinnamic acid derivatives are widely used in cosmetics and possess various functions. This group of compounds includes both naturally occurring as well as synthetic substances. On the basis of the Cosmetic Ingredient Database (CosIng) and available literature, this review summarizes their functions in cosmetics, including their physicochemical and biological properties as well as reported adverse effects. A perfuming function is typical of many derivatives of cinnamaldehyde, cinnamyl alcohol, dihydrocinnamyl alcohol, and cinnamic acid itself; these substances are commonly used in cosmetics all over the world...
June 5, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
A C C Espósito, G Brianezi, N P de Souza, L D B Miot, M E A Marques, H A Miot
BACKGROUND: The physiopathology of epidermal hypermelanization in melasma is not completely understood. Several cytokines and growth factors are increased in skin with melasma, nevertheless, nor the pathways involved in the increased αMSH expression have been adequately evaluated, nor a model for sustained focal melanogenesis is available. OBJECTIVE: To explore stimulatory pathways for epidermal pigmentation in facial melasma related to αMSH: those linked to ultraviolet radiation, oxidative stress, inflammation, neural crest pigmentation cell differentiation and antagonism of αMSH...
May 30, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Bernhard Fink, Katharina Liebner, Ann-Kathrin Müller, Thomas Hirn, Graham McKelvey, John Lankhof
OBJECTIVE: Research documents that even subtle changes in visible skin condition affect perceptions of age, health, and attractiveness. There is evidence that hair quality also affects the assessment of physical appearance, as variations in hair diameter, hair density, and hair style have systematic effects on perception. Here, we consider combined effects of hair color and skin color on the perception of female physical appearance. METHODS: In two experiments, we digitally manipulated facial skin color of lightly-pigmented, young women, both between-subjects (Experiment 1) and within-subjects (Experiment 2), and investigated possible interactions with hair color in regard to age, health, and attractiveness perception...
May 17, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
C Serre, V Busuttil, J-M Botto
In human skin, melanogenesis is a tightly regulated process. Indeed, several extracellular signals are transduced via dedicated signalling pathways and mostly converge to MITF, a transcription factor integrating upstream signalling and regulating downstream genes involved in the various inherent mechanisms modulating melanogenesis. The synthesis of melanin pigments occurs in melanocytes inside melanosomes where melanogenic enzymes (tyrosinase and related proteins) are addressed with the help of specific protein complexes...
May 12, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Missael Antonio Arroyo Negrete, Kazimierz Wrobel, Francisco Javier Acevedo Aguilar, Eunice Yanez Barrientos, Alma Rosa Corrales Escobosa, Katarzyna Wrobel
OBJECTIVE: The goal of this work was to set up a high throughput procedure for the determination of fatty acid methyl esters (FAMEs) in cosmetic castor oils using flow injection - electrospray ionization - high resolution mass spectrometry, and to demonstrate the need of such analysis for the quality control purposes. METHODS: The sample aliquot was mixed with isooctane:chloroform (1:1) and submitted to transesterification; the obtained FAMEs were appropriately diluted using water:isopropanol:acetonitrile (20:50:30) with addition of sodium formate which served as an internal standard, lock mass calibrant and promoted the formation of sodium adducts during electrospray ionization (ESI)...
May 9, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Michał Abendrot, Urszula Kalinowska-Lis
It is well known that zinc ions are widely used in cosmetic products. Their popularity is associated with the multifunctional profile of Zn2+ , which is classified as an essential chemical element in the human body. This review examines numerous beneficial biological properties of zinc-containing compounds and classifies the compounds used in cosmetic products according to their functionality profile: antioxidant, sunscreen, anti-inflammatory, anti-pigmentation, anti-aging, anti-acne, antimicrobial, anti-odour, cleansing or stabilising activity...
May 7, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
C F Pollo, L D B Miot, S Meneguin, H A Miot
BACKGROUND: Melasma is a common chronic focal hypermelanosis that affects photexposed areas as face, mainly in women at fertile age. It inflicts a significant impact in quality of life; nevertheless, quality of life scores (e.g. MELASQoL) are not strongly correlated with clinical severity (e.g. MASI) in facial melasma, suggesting that different factors can influence the perception of disease beyond the clinical extension or the intensity of pigmentation. OBJECTIVES: To explore clinical and socio-demographic aspects that influences MELASQoL scores...
May 7, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Nina Kočevar Glavač, Mojca Lunder
OBJECTIVE: To investigate the efficacy of 13 antimicrobial substances (11 substances of natural origin and two conventional preservatives as controls) at two concentrations in an o/w cosmetic emulsion. METHODS: Cosmetic formulations were analysed for total aerobic bacterial count and total combined yeast count according to the European Pharmacopoeia 8.0. Challenge tests were performed according to the ISO 11930 standard. RESULTS: The total aerobic bacterial count, the total combined yeast count and the total aerobic mesophilic microorganisms were below the acceptable limit for all cosmetic formulations...
May 5, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Dragana Stojiljković, Vanja Tadić, Milica Stanković, Sonja Roganović, Ivana Arsić
OBJECTIVE: The aim of this study was in vitro and in vivo characterization of cosmetic cream with 6% of wild apple fruit water extract, containing 3.5% of alpha-hydroxyacids-AHAs and polyphenolic compounds, stabilized by biodegradable alkyl-polyglucoside emulsifiers. METHODS: In vitro characterization of cream included organoleptic and physico-chemical (pH values and electrical conductivity) analysis, antioxidant activity-AA estimation (using DPPH test) during 180 days of storage at 22±2°C and determination of cosmetic active substances content-AHAs (using HPLC analysis)...
May 3, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
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