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International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Remo Campiche, Petra Sandau, Elke Kurth, Marco Massironi, Dominik Imfeld, Rolf Schuetz
BACKGROUND: Skin aging results from intrinsic but also extrinsic factors of which UV-irradiation is a main cause. It is hence of interest to have means to protect skin from UV -irradiation induced damage. We selected an extract of the freshwater microalga Scenedesmus rubescens and assessed its potential to protect skin from photoaging caused by UV-irradiation. METHODS: Skin cells in-vitro and ex-vivo were analyzed for markers of UV-irradiation induced photodamage such as decreased viability, decreased collagen content, hyperpigmentation, and sunburn cells...
February 13, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Takeshi Tohgasaki, Naoko Ozawa, Takashi Yoshino, Shioji Ishiwatari, Shoko Matsukuma, Shigeru Yanagi, Hidetsugu Fukuda
OBJECTIVE: Previous studies have shown that enolase-1 (ENO1) in the stratum corneum (SC) is more highly expressed in patients with atopic dermatitis (AD) than in healthy individuals, suggesting that it is a novel biomarker for evaluating skin condition in patients with AD. However, the mechanism underlying high ENO1 expression in the SC and its pathological relevance in AD are unclear. In this study, the relationship between ENO1 expression and keratinization of epidermis was investigated and the role of high ENO1 expression in keratinocytes was characterized...
February 11, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Jacques L'Haridon, Patricia Martz, Jean-Charles Cheneble, Jean Florent Campion, Laurent Colombe
OBJECTIVE: This article describes an easy-to-use eco-design methodology developed and applied since 2014 by the L'Oréal Group to improve the sustainable performance of its new products without any compromise on their cosmetic efficacy. METHODS: Cosmetic products, after being used, are often discharged into the sewers and the aquatic compartment. This discharge is considered as dispersive and continuous. A consistent progress in reducing the environmental impact of cosmetic products can be achieved through focusing upon three strategic indicators: biodegradability, grey water footprint adapted for eco-design (GWFE) and a global indicator, complementary to these two endpoints...
February 6, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
I K Jung, S C Park, Y R Lee, S A Bin, Y D Hong, D Eun, J H Lee, Y S Roh, B M Kim
OBJECTIVE: This research examines the benefits of caffeine absorption on hair stiffness. In order to test hair stiffness, we have developed an evaluation method that is not only accurate, but also inexpensive. Our evaluation method for measuring hair stiffness culminated in a model, called the Stiffness-Angle Law, which describes the elastic properties of hair and can be widely applied to the development of hair care products. METHODS: Small molecules (≤ 500 g/mol) such as caffeine can be absorbed into hair...
January 25, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
E E L Lewis, M R T Barrett, L Freeman-Parry, R A Bojar, M R Clench
OBJECTIVE: Examination of the skin barrier repair/wound healing process using a living skin equivalent (LSE) model and matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionization-mass spectrometry imaging (MALDI-MSI) to identify lipids directly involved as potential biomarkers. These biomarkers may be used to determine whether an in vivo wound is going to heal for example if infected. METHODS: An in vitro LSE model was wounded with a scalpel blade and assessed at day 4 post wounding by histology and MALDI-MSI...
January 21, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Loïc Colomb, Frederic Flament, Anupama Wagle, Youssef Idelcaid, Divya Agrawal
BACKGROUND: A previously published work explored the diversity of some biophysical parameters (colour, elasticity, sebum production, skin micro relief….) of the skin of 1204 Indian women, differently aged, living in 4 Indian cities (Chennai, Delhi, Kolkata, Mumbai). The present work aimed at completing such research by focusing on possible gender-related differences in the same skin parameters, between Indian men and women living in the same Indian city (Mumbai). METHODS: 297 Indian men, differently aged (18-70y) were recruited in Mumbai, completing the panel of 303 women who were previously recruited in this same city...
January 17, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
T Virén, J T Iivarinen, J K Sarin, I Harvima, H N Mayrovitz
OBJECTIVE: The aim of this study was to evaluate the performance of a hand-held indentation device for fast and reliable determination of skin stiffness. METHODS: Device accuracy to indentation depths of 0.6 and 1.3 mm was first evaluated on plastic foam materials with mechanical properties verified by a laboratory material testing device. Subsequently, the device's sensitivity to detect age related changes in skin stiffness was evaluated among 46 healthy women (18-79 years)...
January 3, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
J M Crowther
OBJECTIVE: Objective methods for understanding sunscreen behaviour in vitro before they are applied to the skin have failed to keep pace with the ever-increasing demands for higher SPF scores where the products are absorbing more and more similar levels of UV. A novel method for visualizing the spreading and location of SPF ingredients based on cross polarized UVA reflectance photography is described here which gives new insights into the formation of final film morphology and how it correlates with in vivo SPF efficacy for a set of test products...
December 16, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Linna Fan, Yan Jia, Le Cui, Xinchao Li, Congfen He
Sensitive skin (SS) is a condition characterised by high reactivity, low tolerance, and susceptibility to allergies of the skin. Owing to changes in the environment and marketing strategies, as well as the increasing public awareness about skin care, attention to skin condition is gradually increasing. To explore the differences in the skin barrier of SS and normal skin (NS), a questionnaire survey was conducted and basic indicators of the skin barrier were analysed. It was found that sebum secretion in the SS group was lower than that in the NS group, suggesting that the development of SS might be associated with sebum secretion and its specific components...
December 7, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Marc Pissavini, Majella Lane
No abstract text is available yet for this article.
December 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
F Flament, B Gautier, A-M Benize, A Charbonneau, M Cassier
OBJECTIVES: These were two-fold: (i) to assess the possible changes in some facial signs induced in a 6-month period by the periodical shift from winter to summer in Caucasian women and (ii) to appraise the preventive effects of a strong photo-protective product. METHODS: The facial signs of two cohorts of French women (N= 40 and 42), of comparable ages were graded between winter to summer. One group was left unprotected whereas the other daily applied a strong photo-protective product for 6 months...
December 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Lingyi Li, Senpei Yang, Tao Chen, Lujia Han, Guoping Lian
OBJECTIVE: In the process of hair treatment, various cationic actives contained in hair care products can be absorbed into hair fiber to modulate the physicochemical properties of hair such as color, strength, style and volume. There have been very limited studies on the binding and partition properties of hair care actives to hair. This study aimed to investigate the pH effects on cationic solute absorption into hair and binding to keratin. METHODS: The keratin binding and hair partition properties of three cationic solutes (theophylline, nortriptyline and amitriptyline) have been measured at different pH using fluorescence spectroscopy and equilibrium absorption experiment...
November 6, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Hao Ou-Yang, Karen Meyer, Tim Houser, Gary Grove
OBJECTIVE: Sweating plays a critical role in maintaining thermal balance and keeping skin cool during exercise. People often wear sunscreens on hot summer days for sun protection. Most recreational sunscreens are designed to be water and sweat resistant, so that sweating will not remove or compromise the protection. The objective of this study was to determine whether wearing sweat-resistant sunscreen might impede natural sweating, potentially interfering with thermal regulation and resulting in the elevation of skin temperature...
November 3, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
P A Cornwell
Surfactants form the core of all shampoo formulations, and contribute to a wide range of different benefits including cleansing, foaming, rheology control, skin mildness and the deposition of benefit agents to the hair and scalp. The purpose of this review is to assist the design of effective, modern, shampoo surfactant technologies. The mechanisms through which surfactants help deliver their effects are presented, along with the appraisal techniques through which surfactant options can be tested and screened for product development...
November 2, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Stephan Bielfeldt, Jürgen Blaak, Rainer Wohlfart, Caroline Manger, Klaus-P Wilhelm
OBJECTIVE: The normal process of skin tissue repair following injury invariably results in visual scarring. It is known that topical treatment with hydrophobic cosmetics high in silicone and mineral oil content can improve the appearance of scars and striae. Given lifestyle preferences of many cosmetic consumers towards so-called natural treatments, the objective of this controlled randomized study was to investigate the efficacy of a plant body oil rich in oleic and linoleic acids (Bio Skin Oil(®) ) for improving the appearance of scars and striae...
November 2, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
C Monpeurt, E Cinotti, J Razafindrakoto, P Rubegni, M Fimiani, J L Perrot, M Hebert
OBJECTIVE: The colour of a nail polish varies according to the nail on which it is applied. The objective of this study was to predict the colour of the nail polish on a given nail and to study how the colour varies depending on the nail polish thickness. METHODS: Six nail polishes were applied in one, two and three layers on the nails of one subject, thus forming eighteen samples. The spectral reflectances of the eighteen nail polishes applied on the nails with different thicknesses were obtained by spectrophotometry...
October 23, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
E G Brunt, J G Burgess
The marine environment represents an underexploited resource for the discovery of novel products, despite its high level of biological and chemical diversity. With increasing awareness of the harmful effects of chronic ultraviolet exposure, and a universal desire to improve cosmetic appearance, the market for new cosmetic ingredients is growing, and current trends have generated a greater demand for products sourced from the environment. A growing number of novel molecules from marine flora and fauna exhibit potent and effective dermatological activities...
October 23, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Nadine Yossa, Gabriela Arce, James Smiley, Mei-Chiung Jo Huang, Lanlan Yin, Rebecca Bell, Sandra Tallent, Eric Brown, Thomas Hammack
OBJECTIVE: Pathogenic contamination of cosmetics intended to be applied on or around the eye area, including make-up removers, may lead to severe eye infections. To assess the efficacy of antimicrobial preservatives in these products we investigated the survival and detection of Bacillus cereus F 4227A spiked into make-up removers, alone and in the presence of other relevant microorganisms. METHODS: Four brands of make-up removers, A, B, C and D, were challenged three times (day 0, day 7, and day 14) using B...
October 14, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Guillaume Cassin, Stephane Diridollou, Frederic Flament, Anne-Sophie Adam, Patricia Pierre, Loic Colomb, Jean-Luc Morancais, Huixia Qiu
OBJECTIVE: To explore, in vitro and in vivo, the potential interest of an Aerogel-based formula, in concealing a naturally shiny facial skin. METHODS: In vitro, various formulae and ingredients were applied as a thin film onto contrast plates and studied through measuring the shine induced following pump spraying of a mixture of oleic acid and mineral water as a sebum/sweat mix model. In such a test, an Aerogel ingredient led to very positive results. In vivo, two different formulae with various concentrations of Aerogel were randomly tested on half side of the face vs...
October 10, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Philip W Wertz
ω-Hydroxyacids are fatty acids bearing a hydroxyl group on the terminal carbon. They are found in mammals and higher plants and are often involved in providing a permeability barrier, the primary purpose of which is to reduce water loss. Some ω-hydroxyacid derivatives may be involved in water proofing and signaling. The purpose of this review is to survey the known natural sources of ω-hydroxyacids. ω -Hydroxyacids are produced by two different P450-dependent mechanisms. The longer (30 - 34 carbons) ω-hydroxyacids are produced by chain extension from palmitic acid until the chain extends across the membrane in which the extension is taking place, and then the terminal carbon is hydroxylated...
October 10, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
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