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International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Linna Fan, Yan Jia, Le Cui, Xinchao Li, Congfen He
Sensitive skin (SS) is a condition characterised by high reactivity, low tolerance, and susceptibility to allergies of the skin. Owing to changes in the environment and marketing strategies, as well as the increasing public awareness about skin care, attention to skin condition is gradually increasing. To explore the differences in the skin barrier of SS and normal skin (NS), a questionnaire survey was conducted and basic indicators of the skin barrier were analysed. It was found that sebum secretion in the SS group was lower than that in the NS group, suggesting that the development of SS might be associated with sebum secretion and its specific components...
December 7, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Lingyi Li, Senpei Yang, Tao Chen, Lujia Han, Guoping Lian
OBJECTIVE: In the process of hair treatment, various cationic actives contained in hair care products can be absorbed into hair fiber to modulate the physicochemical properties of hair such as color, strength, style and volume. There have been very limited studies on the binding and partition properties of hair care actives to hair. This study aimed to investigate the pH effects on cationic solute absorption into hair and binding to keratin. METHODS: The keratin binding and hair partition properties of three cationic solutes (theophylline, nortriptyline and amitriptyline) have been measured at different pH using fluorescence spectroscopy and equilibrium absorption experiment...
November 6, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Hao Ou-Yang, Karen Meyer, Tim Houser, Gary Grove
OBJECTIVE: Sweating plays a critical role in maintaining thermal balance and keeping skin cool during exercise. People often wear sunscreens on hot summer days for sun protection. Most recreational sunscreens are designed to be water and sweat resistant, so that sweating will not remove or compromise the protection. The objective of this study was to determine whether wearing sweat-resistant sunscreen might impede natural sweating, potentially interfering with thermal regulation and resulting in the elevation of skin temperature...
November 3, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
P A Cornwell
Surfactants form the core of all shampoo formulations, and contribute to a wide range of different benefits including cleansing, foaming, rheology control, skin mildness and the deposition of benefit agents to the hair and scalp. The purpose of this review is to assist the design of effective, modern, shampoo surfactant technologies. The mechanisms through which surfactants help deliver their effects are presented, along with the appraisal techniques through which surfactant options can be tested and screened for product development...
November 2, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Stephan Bielfeldt, Jürgen Blaak, Rainer Wohlfart, Caroline Manger, Klaus-P Wilhelm
OBJECTIVE: The normal process of skin tissue repair following injury invariably results in visual scarring. It is known that topical treatment with hydrophobic cosmetics high in silicone and mineral oil content can improve the appearance of scars and striae. Given lifestyle preferences of many cosmetic consumers towards so-called natural treatments, the objective of this controlled randomized study was to investigate the efficacy of a plant body oil rich in oleic and linoleic acids (Bio Skin Oil(®) ) for improving the appearance of scars and striae...
November 2, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
C Monpeurt, E Cinotti, J Razafindrakoto, P Rubegni, M Fimiani, J L Perrot, M Hebert
OBJECTIVE: The colour of a nail polish varies according to the nail on which it is applied. The objective of this study was to predict the colour of the nail polish on a given nail and to study how the colour varies depending on the nail polish thickness. METHODS: Six nail polishes were applied in one, two and three layers on the nails of one subject, thus forming eighteen samples. The spectral reflectances of the eighteen nail polishes applied on the nails with different thicknesses were obtained by spectrophotometry...
October 23, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
E G Brunt, J G Burgess
The marine environment represents an underexploited resource for the discovery of novel products, despite its high level of biological and chemical diversity. With increasing awareness of the harmful effects of chronic ultraviolet exposure, and a universal desire to improve cosmetic appearance, the market for new cosmetic ingredients is growing, and current trends have generated a greater demand for products sourced from the environment. A growing number of novel molecules from marine flora and fauna exhibit potent and effective dermatological activities...
October 23, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Nadine Yossa, Gabriela Arce, James Smiley, Mei-Chiung Jo Huang, Lanlan Yin, Rebecca Bell, Sandra Tallent, Eric Brown, Thomas Hammack
OBJECTIVE: Pathogenic contamination of cosmetics intended to be applied on or around the eye area, including make-up removers, may lead to severe eye infections. To assess the efficacy of antimicrobial preservatives in these products we investigated the survival and detection of Bacillus cereus F 4227A spiked into make-up removers, alone and in the presence of other relevant microorganisms. METHODS: Four brands of make-up removers, A, B, C and D, were challenged three times (day 0, day 7, and day 14) using B...
October 14, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Guillaume Cassin, Stephane Diridollou, Frederic Flament, Anne-Sophie Adam, Patricia Pierre, Loic Colomb, Jean-Luc Morancais, Huixia Qiu
OBJECTIVE: To explore, in vitro and in vivo, the potential interest of an Aerogel-based formula, in concealing a naturally shiny facial skin. METHODS: In vitro, various formulae and ingredients were applied as a thin film onto contrast plates and studied through measuring the shine induced following pump spraying of a mixture of oleic acid and mineral water as a sebum/sweat mix model. In such a test, an Aerogel ingredient led to very positive results. In vivo, two different formulae with various concentrations of Aerogel were randomly tested on half side of the face vs...
October 10, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Philip W Wertz
ω-Hydroxyacids are fatty acids bearing a hydroxyl group on the terminal carbon. They are found in mammals and higher plants and are often involved in providing a permeability barrier, the primary purpose of which is to reduce water loss. Some ω-hydroxyacid derivatives may be involved in water proofing and signaling. The purpose of this review is to survey the known natural sources of ω-hydroxyacids. ω -Hydroxyacids are produced by two different P450-dependent mechanisms. The longer (30 - 34 carbons) ω-hydroxyacids are produced by chain extension from palmitic acid until the chain extends across the membrane in which the extension is taking place, and then the terminal carbon is hydroxylated...
October 10, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Loïc Colomb, Frederic Flament, Anupama Wagle, Divya Agrawal
BACKGROUND: India is a large country (a subcontinent) of about 3.3 million km(2) that covers large ranges in latitude and longitude. The last Indian census counted about 1.21 billion of inhabitants of many origins, creating a vast human diversity and skin types, the variability of which having been previously established. The present study aimed at deepening this knowledge through a set of biophysical measurements to describe, along the skin ageing process, the specificities of various Indian subjects living in different geographical locations...
September 30, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
A Kuzuhara
OBJECTIVE: The objective of our research was to investigate the reduction mechanism of thioglycerol (TG) on hair keratin fibres. METHODS: The structure of cross-sections at various depths of virgin white human hair resulting from the permanent waving process with TG was directly analyzed at the molecular level using Raman spectroscopy. Also, the penetration of TG for the cross-sectional samples dyed with methylene blue was observed by optical microscopy. RESULTS: The gauche-gauche-gauche (GGG) and gauche-gauche-trans (GGT) conformations of disulfide (-SS-) groups remarkably decreased, while the trans-gauche-trans (TGT) conformation increased by performing the reduction process with TG...
September 18, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
K Yanase, I Hatta
OBJECTIVE: Surfactants are major ingredients of body soaps and cleansers, and such harsh ones have been demonstrated to damage the skin. Stratum corneum (SC), the outermost barrier of the skin layer, is rich in intercellular lipids. This lipid structure can be disrupted by surfactants, impairing the barrier function of the skin. Thus, we investigated the surfactant-induced disruption of the intercellular lipid structure of human SC at the molecular level using synchrotron X-ray diffraction...
September 18, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
A Galliano, J Y Kempf, M Fougere, M Applebaum, L J Wolfram, H Maibach
OBJECTIVES: This study (i) compared the sense of touch between a naïve and expert panels, under visual or blind conditions, using differently treated hair swatches and (ii) explored possible common wordings used by both panels and their possible links with some physical properties of hairs. METHODS: Two sets of 15 hair swatches of Caucasian and Chinese origins were differently treated (bleached, permed, brushed, etc.) or organized (root-tip vs. tip-root). These were evaluated by tactile assessments by two panels (105 naïve consumers and 10 hair experts) under visual or blind conditions, in two geographical locations...
September 16, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Marc Pissavini, Majella Lane
No abstract text is available yet for this article.
December 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
F Flament, B Gautier, A-M Benize, A Charbonneau, M Cassier
OBJECTIVES: These were two-fold: (i) to assess the possible changes in some facial signs induced in a 6-month period by the periodical shift from winter to summer in Caucasian women and (ii) to appraise the preventive effects of a strong photo-protective product. METHODS: The facial signs of two cohorts of French women (N= 40 and 42), of comparable ages were graded between winter to summer. One group was left unprotected whereas the other daily applied a strong photo-protective product for 6 months...
December 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
J M Crowther
OBJECTIVE: Methods which assess skin moisturization based on changes in its electrical properties are widely used in both cosmetic and medical research industries. However, the devices themselves often give results which are significantly different to each other. Recently two-dimensional imaging moisturization systems have become commercially available, which have the capability to provide a more detailed assessment of what is contributing to measured skin moisturization. Presented here is a new in vitro method for preparing textured model test substrates for use with these devices, and results of their use to provide a clearer insight into the devices operation...
October 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
M Fujii, M Inoue, T Fukami
OBJECTIVE: Quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants (ACSs) and N-[3-alkyl(12,14)oxy-2-hydroxypropyl]-l-arginine hydrochloride (N-AOHPA) were used to emulsify silicone. The potential of the resulting emulsions in hair conditioning products was investigated. METHODS: The emulsions were prepared using a homogenizer and/or high-pressure homogenizer. ACSs and N-AOHPA were used as silicone emulsifiers. The stability of the emulsions was evaluated by measuring particle sizes, creaming fractions, polydispersity indexes and zeta potentials...
October 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Z Jovanovic, T Schornstein, A Sutor, G Neufang, R Hagens
OBJECTIVE: This study aimed to assess sunscreen application habits and relative body coverage after single whole body application. METHODS: Fifty-two healthy volunteers were asked to use the test product once, following their usual sunscreen application routine. Standardized UV photographs, which were evaluated by Image Analysis, were conducted before and immediately after product application to evaluate relative body coverage. In addition to these procedures, the volunteers completed an online self-assessment questionnaire to assess sunscreen usage habits...
October 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
J M Marsh, M A Brown, T J Felts, H D Hutton, M L Vatter, S Whitaker, F C Wireko, P B Styczynski, C Li, I D Henry
OBJECTIVE: The objective of this work was to create a shampoo formula that contains a stable ordered gel network structure that delivers fatty alcohols inside hair. METHODS: X-ray diffraction (SAXS and WAXS), SEM and DSC have been used to confirm formation of the ordered Lβ gel network with fatty alcohol (cetyl and stearyl alcohols) and an anionic surfactant (SLE1S). Micro-autoradiography and extraction methods using GC-MS were used to confirm penetration of fatty alcohols into hair, and cyclic fatigue testing was used to measure hair strength...
October 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
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