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International Journal of Cosmetic Science

P Capra, G Musitelli, P Perugini
OBJECTIVE: The aim of this work was to use the contact angle measurement in order to predict the behavior of ingredients and finished cosmetic products on skin to improve skin feel and product texture. METHOD: Different classes of cosmetic ingredients and formulations were evaluated. The contact angle measurements were carried out by the sessile drop methodusing an apparatus, designed and set up in laboratory. Glass, Teflon and human skin were the reference substrates...
January 9, 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Xianshuang Meng, Qiang Ma, Hua Bai, Ziming Wang, Chao Han, Chuanxian Wang
OBJECTIVE: A comprehensive methodology for the simultaneous determination of 15 multiclass organic UV filters in sunscreen cosmetics was developed using high performance liquid chromatography coupled with electrospray ionization tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-ESI-MS/MS). METHODS: Sunscreen cosmetics of various matrices, such as toning lotion, emulsion, cream, and lipstick, were analyzed. Ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) was utilized as the extraction technique for sample preparation...
December 31, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
P André, F Villain
Mannitol has both hydrating and anti-oxidant properties that make it an ideal excipient for use with hyaluronic acid (HA) fillers. This review examines the role of reactive oxygen species in the aging process and their effects on both endogenous HA and HA products developed for aesthetic use. Evidence is presented to show that the free-radical scavenging properties of mannitol provide it with a two-fold mechanism of action when combined with HA fillers: reducing the inflammation and swelling associated with the injection procedure itself, and preventing the degradation of the injected HA by free radicals...
December 27, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
V Mazzarello, G Solinas, P Bandiera, V Pomponi, G Piu, M Ferrari, A Montella
OBJECTIVE: Lip plumpers should enhance lip volume. It has been shown that no noticeable result was obtained after long term use of these products. The present study has been carried out to assess lip plumpers' short term effectiveness within 2 h from application. METHODS: Effectiveness was assessed using non-invasive techniques. The effect on vascularisation was analyzed with the Mexameter MX 16(®) , and the volume enhancing effect was assessed by anthropometric measures and profilometry analysis from 3D scanning electron microscope (SEM) images using Alicona's MEX software...
November 24, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Stefan Hettwer, Stefan Bänziger, Brigit Suter, Barbara Obermayer
OBJECTIVE: Blocking the TRPV1 receptor is an interesting approach for the treatment of sensitive skin. Here we investigated the potential of grifolin derivatives from Albatrellus ovinus to act as TRPV1 receptor blockers and their potential to serve as cosmetic active ingredients. METHODS: Binding characteristics of grifolin derivatives from Albatrellus ovinus were determined in competitive and functional in vitro assays to achieve IC50 values. The TRPV1 receptor was activated in vivo with capsaicin and noxious heat to investigate skin reddening, microcirculation, skin sensations and heat pain thresholds...
November 24, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Karl Lintner, Majella Eileen Lane
Four years and several months ago…, Tony Rawlings handed me over the IJCS which by that time had acquired the right of citation in Medline and was about to receive its first impact factor. With Majella Lane at my side, we strived to continue the dynamic of its development, the further building of a reputation of scientific integrity, of interesting content and attractiveness for authors, especially in keeping the turnaround times between submission and decision as short as possible. This became more and more difficult as the number of annual submissions went from ≈ 160 in 2013 to an estimated 370 in 2016, thus reflecting the increased awareness of our Journal in the international research community...
November 22, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
M Trautmann, V Wendel, D Prinz, B Primmel, G Willging, E Nagorsen, A Suckert, S Gehm, M Brandt, P Ballay, B Godde
OBJECTIVE: We aimed to examine whether and how age as well as tactile sensitivity and perception had an impact on how women liked richer and lighter creams. Furthermore, the question arose if age and tactile perception had an influence on the ability to distinguish between the creams and how the ability to distinguish between creams influenced the liking of these creams. METHODS: A total of 299 female participants were invited to rate how much they liked four different cosmetic creams applied to their forearms...
November 16, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Liang Hong, Dan Han, Ming-Xin Li, Pei Zhang, Chen-Guang Liu
OBJECTIVE: To develop a rapid, simple and efficient Ultraviolet-visible (UV-Vis) spectrophotometric method for the quantification of phenylethyl resorcinol (PR), a potent skin-lightening agent, incorporated into new topical nanoemulsions, and to validate this method according to International Commission for Harmonization (ICH) guidelines. METHODS: UV-Vis spectrophotometric method for quantification of PR in new topical nanoemulsions was developed and validated in terms of specificity, linearity, sensitivity, precision, and accuracy...
November 9, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
T Takahashi, S Yoshida
OBJECTIVE: To clarify the presence and properties of a unique structure which is located between the cuticle and cortex of human hair. METHODS: Whole hair fibre and longitudinally split hair were used. Treated with a mixture of urea, reductant and alkaline, hair was split at the interface between cuticle and cortex. The residues in the solution were observed by microscope, and the distribution of lipids and protein was determined. RESULTS: From the treated longitudinally split hair, a membrane-like structure which was located at the interface between cuticle and cortex was obtained...
November 7, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
A B Orun, H Seker, V Uslan, E Goodyer, G Smith
OBJECTIVE: The textural structure of "skin age" related sub-skin components enables us to identify and analyse their unique characteristics, thus making substantial progress towards establishing an accurate skin age model. METHODS: This is achieved by a two stage process. First by the application of textural analysis using laser speckle imaging, which is sensitive to textural effects within the λ=650 nm spectral band region. In the second stage a Bayesian inference method is used to select attributes from which a predictive model is built...
November 3, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
G Peterson, S Rapaka, N Koski, M Kearney, K Ortblad, L Tadlock
: With increasing concerns over the rise of atmospheric particulate pollution globally and its impact on systemic health and skin aging, we have developed a pollution model to mimic particulate matter trapped in sebum and oils creating a robust (difficult to remove) surrogate for dirty, polluted skin. OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the cleansing efficacy/protective effect of a sonic brush vs. manual cleansing against particulate pollution (trapped in grease/oil typical of human sebum)...
October 31, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
A Dimitrovska Cvetkovska, S Manfredini, P Ziosi, S Molesini, V Dissette, I Magri, C Scapoli, A Carrieri, E Durini, S Vertuani
OBJECTIVE: The in vitro evaluation of SPF is still a problem due to the lack of repeatability and correlation between the in vitro and in vivo data, and many authors are currently working to develop an internationally harmonized method. Very recently, the use of several "adjuvant" ingredients such as boosters, antioxidants, immunomodulators, solvents and film-forming ingredients have further complicated the pattern for product developers that should frequently run in vivo test. The aim of this study was to understand whether a simple and cheap in vitro method could be optimized in order to provide both statistically repeatable and predictive SPF measurement...
October 26, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
M Narayanan, P Sekar, M Pasupathi, T Mukhopadhyay
OBJECTIVE: As questions on the safety of some popular preservatives are on the rise, there is a growing interest in developing 'self-preserving' personal care products. Use of multifunctional ingredients/actives with antimicrobial properties has been explored as replacements for conventional preservatives. This study explores the use of combinations of multifunctional actives (MFA) and other cosmetic ingredients in various personal care formulations, to deliver microbiologically safe self-preserving products...
October 20, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Y Shao, T He, G J Fisher, J J Voorhees, T Quan
OBJECTIVE: Retinoic acid has been shown to improve the aged-appearing skin. However, less is known about the anti-ageing effects of retinol (ROL, vitamin A), a precursor of retinoic acid, in aged human skin in vivo. This study aimed to investigate the molecular basis of ROL anti-ageing properties in naturally aged human skin in vivo. METHODS: Sun-protected buttock skin (76 ± 6 years old, n = 12) was topically treated with 0.4% ROL and its vehicle for 7 days. The effects of topical ROL on skin epidermis and dermis were evaluated by immunohistochemistry, in situ hybridization, Northern analysis, real-time RT-PCR and Western analysis...
February 2017: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
E C Jung, H Zhu, Y Zou, A Elmahdy, Y Cao, X Hui, H I Maibach
OBJECTIVE: Percutaneous absorption of l-ascorbic acid (LAA) is limited due to its high hydrophilicity and low stability. Here, we investigated the effect of post-dosing sonophoresis (329 kHz, 20 mW cm(-2) ) and heat (36°C) on transdermal delivery of LAA. METHODS: Ultrasound/heat, heat and control treatments were applied on skin surface for 2 and 5 min after topical application of C14-labelled LAA aqueous solution. After 15 min post-exposure, radioactivity was measured in tape-striped stratum corneum (TS-SC), epidermis, dermis and receptor fluid...
December 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
B Y P Tay, S C Yung, T Y Teoh
OBJECTIVE: Isopropyl p-toluenesulfonate (IPTS) is a potentially genotoxic by-product formed during the esterification of palm oil-based palmitic and palm kernel oil-based myristic acid with isopropanol to produce isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate. There are no methods described for the analysis of IPTS in cosmetic products. In this work, we have established a simple, precise and accurate method to determine the presence and level of IPTS in various finished cosmetic products which contain palm-based esters in their formulations...
December 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
P M Ramos, G Brianezi, A C P Martins, M G da Silva, M E A Marques, H A Miot
OBJECTIVE: The objective of this study is to evaluate apoptosis in hair follicles of patients with female pattern hair loss (FPHL) and its association with follicular microinflammation. METHOD: Cross-sectional study involving 17 women with FPHL and five controls. Scalp skin samples were processed for HE and TUNEL assays. The variables were compared according to the categories of follicles (terminal versus miniaturized) and groups of patients (FPHL vs. controls)...
December 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
S E Stewart, M D Parker, A Amézquita, T L Pitt
Regulatory decisions regarding microbiological safety of cosmetics and personal care products are primarily hazard-based, where the presence of a potential pathogen determines decision-making. This contrasts with the Food industry where it is a commonplace to use a risk-based approach for ensuring microbiological safety. A risk-based approach allows consideration of the degree of exposure to assess unacceptable health risks. As there can be a number of advantages in using a risk-based approach to safety, this study explores the Codex Alimentarius (Codex) four-step Microbiological Risk Assessment (MRA) framework frequently used in the Food industry and examines how it can be applied to the safety assessment of personal care products...
December 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
B S Kim, M Blaghen, H-S Hong, K-M Lee
OBJECTIVE: Melanin is a black or brown phenolic polymer present mainly in skin and hair. Although melanin can be degraded by some microbial species, the melanin degradation capacity of Geotrichum sp. is unknown. The aim of this study was to characterize a melanin biodegradation enzyme from Geotrichum sp. METHODS: In this study, we assessed the melanin degradation activity of Geotrichum sp. in comparison with the major melanin-degrading enzymes, manganese-dependent peroxidase (MnP), manganese-independent peroxidase, lignin peroxidase and laccase...
December 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
E Tamura, J Ishikawa, A Naoe, T Yamamoto
OBJECTIVE: The structure of skin on the lips is different from skin at other areas of the body; the water content of the stratum corneum (SC) and the barrier function there is low. Therefore, the lips can easily become dry and rough. The SC plays an important role in the barrier and water-holding functions of the skin. Above all, ceramides (CERs) are important SC lipids which maintain SC functions. The purpose of this study was to clarify the relationship between the degree of lip roughness and the CER profile...
December 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
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