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International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Tomoko Nomura, Yasuko Yoshida-Amano, Kenichiro Yoshida, Akihiko Fujii, Masanori Tanahashi, Yoshinori Sugiyama, Kayoko Iwata, Takatoshi Murase
OBJECTIVE: Several studies have shown that a deterioration of skin properties, an impaired cutaneous microcirculation function and an imbalance of autonomic nervous activity are observed in smokers and in patients with diabetes mellitus or Raynaud's phenomenon. These observations suggest that skin properties are associated with cutaneous microcirculatory function and autonomic nervous activity in pathological conditions. However, there is no published evidence to support the concept that these two functions have any relationship with skin properties even in healthy subjects...
October 12, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
A C Weihermann, M Lorencini, C A Brohem, C M de Carvalho
Skin aging is a complex process that may be caused by factors that are intrinsic and extrinsic to the body. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation represents one of the main sources of skin damage over the years and characterizes a process known as photoaging. Among the changes that affect cutaneous tissue with age, the loss of elastic properties caused by changes in elastin production, increased degradation and/or processing produces a substantial impact on tissue esthetics and health. The occurrence of solar elastosis is one of the main markers of cutaneous photoaging and is characterized by disorganized and non-functional deposition of elastic fibers...
October 12, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
J Blaak, D Dähnhardt, S Dähnhardt-Pfeiffer, S Bielfeldt, K-P Wilhelm, R Wohlfart, P Staib
OBJECTIVE: Xerosis is a serious problem among the very old. It is a dermatological challenge caused by significant alterations in stratum corneum (SC) function and structure. Two negative changes in aged skin are: (i) the enhanced skin surface pH and (ii) the altered SC lipid content, composition and ordering. METHODS: Therefore, we investigated the way in which an acidic skin care product with different plant oils affects SC function, structure and lipid profile in older subjects with dry skin...
October 12, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Purva Thatai, Bharti Sapra
The human nail is one of the challenging membrane for the scientists to target and to improve the clinical efficacy of ungual formulations. The understanding of nail physiology, impact of hydration on its properties and presence of trace elements in nails as biomarkers has been explored by various researchers in clinical studies. Despite the importance of biophysical techniques for the assessment of structure and physiology of nail, minimum literature analyzes biophysical, biochemical and bioanalytical approaches...
October 6, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Christopher Berkey, Krysta Biniek, Reinhold H Dauskardt
OBJECTIVE: Solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation is ubiquitous in human life and well-known to cause skin damage that can lead to harmful conditions such as erythema. Although sunscreen is a popular form of protection for some of these conditions, it is unclear if sunscreen can maintain the mechanical barrier properties of skin. The objective of this study is to determine if in vitro thin film mechanics techniques adapted for biological tissue are able to characterize the efficacy of commonly used UV inhibitors and commercial sunscreens to protect the biomechanical barrier properties of stratum corneum (SC) from UV exposure...
September 29, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Frederic Flament, Huixia Qiu
OBJECTIVES: These were two-fold: i) to record through standardized pictures, the possible changes in 31 facial signs induced, in a 6-month period, by the periodical shift from winter to summer in a group of 43 Chinese women and ii) to appraise the preventive effects of a strong photo-protective product, daily applied to the faces of an additional group (N=40) of women of same age-range and presenting same severities of facial signs in winter. METHODS: Facial signs (structural and pigmentation-related) were scored in blind by a panel of 12 experts from photographs taken under standard conditions...
September 28, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Seok-Jin Lee, Young Hoon Son, Ki Back Lee, Jin-Haeng Lee, Hyo-Jun Kim, Eui Man Jeong, Sang Chul Park, In-Gyu Kim
OBJECTIVE: 4-n-butylresorcinol is a competitive inhibitor of tyrosinase and has been used as an anti-melanogenic agent. However, its inhibition mechanism in intact cells is not fully understood. To elucidate the cellular mechanism, we compared in vitro and in vivo inhibitory effects of 4-n-butylresorcinol on tyrosinase activity. METHODS: B16F10 melanoma cells were cultured in media containing αMSH in the presence or absence of 4-n-butylresorcinol. Tyrosinase mRNA levels, protein levels, and activity in B16F10 cells were compared by real-time PCR, immunostaining combined with western blot, and colorimetric analysis, respectively...
September 26, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
K Jung, R J C Everson, B Joshi, P A Bulsara, R Upasani, M J Clarke
OBJECTIVES: The present work analyzed the antioxidative activity of phenol-based antioxidants by using an Electron Spin Resonance method to predict the activity and stability of these antioxidants in cosmetic products. METHODS: The Antioxidative Power (AP) method was chosen to measure both the capacity and kinetics of an antioxidative reaction by detecting the DPPH (diphenylpicrylhydrazyl) radical. The antioxidative capacity (wc ) relates to the amount of free radicals that can be reduced, whereas the antioxidative reactivity (tr ) relates to the reaction speed and offers a fingerprinting of the redox state of the antioxidant molecules...
September 19, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Pallav A Bulsara, Peter Varlashkin, Jason Dickens, David J Moore, Anthony Vincent Rawlings, Martyn J Clarke
OBJECTIVE: The focus of this communication is the study of phospholipid structured-emulsions whose phase behavior is modified with monoalkyl fatty amphiphiles. Ideally these systems would mimic key physical and structural attributes observed in human stratum corneum (SC)(7) so that they better alleviate xerotic skin conditions. METHODS: Phosphatidylcholine structured emulsions were prepared and their phase behavior modified with monoalkyl fatty amphiphiles. The effect of molecular volume, acyl chain length and head-group interactions was studied using a combination of physical methods...
September 10, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
J M Dyer, S R Haines, A Thomas, W Wang, R J Walls, S Clerens, D P Harland
OBJECTIVE: Exposure to UV in humans resulting in sunburn triggers a complex series of events that are a mix of immediate and delayed damage mediation and healing. While studies on the effects of UV exposure on DNA damage and repair have been reported, changes in the oxidative modification of skin proteins are poorly understood at the molecular level, despite the important role played by structural proteins in skin tissue, and the effect of the integrity of these proteins on skin appearance and health...
September 10, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
T Cartner, N Brand, K Tian, A Saud, T Carr, P Stapelton, M E Lane, A V Rawlings
OBJECTIVES: The aim of this exploratory study was to investigate the effect of ethanol, isopropanol and n-propanol on stratum corneum (SC) enzymes and keratinocytes in vitro together with their effects on skin condition and function. METHODS: Activities of kallikrein 5 (KLK5) and phospholipase A2 (PLA2) as well as keratinocyte metabolic activity, interleukin-1α (IL-1α) and tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α) were measured in vitro in the presence and absence of the different alcohols...
August 31, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
N Yossa, G Arce, M-C J Huang, L Yin, E Brown, T Hammack
: Bacillus cereus has been associated with clinical infections and is also the cause of post-traumatic endophthalmitis as well as endogenous eye infections, which can result in blindness. Cosmetics, although preserved, can be contaminated during manufacture or use and thus cause serious health issues. OBJECTIVE: We investigated the detection factors of Bacillus in eye cream preserved with parabens, including the non-ionic surfactants used as neutralizers such as Tween 80, a blend of Tween 60 and Span 80, Tween 20 and selective media...
August 31, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Stephanie A Ventura, Gerald B Kasting
OBJECTIVE: Skin transport properties of glycerin and water from binary mixtures contacting human skin were determined in order to better understand the mechanism of skin moisturization by aqueous glycerin formulations. METHODS: Steady-state permeation for (3) H2 O and (14) C-glycerin across split-thickness human skin in vitro and desorption dynamics of the same permeants in isolated human stratum corneum (HSC) were experimentally determined under near equilibrium conditions...
August 26, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Germain Puccetti, William Thompson
OBJECTIVES: Hair sprays apply fixative ingredients to provide hold to a hair style as well as weather resistance and optical properties such as shine. Generally, sprays distribute fine particles containing polymeric ingredients to form a thin film on the surface of hair. Different hair types require different strengths of the formed deposit on the hair surface. The present study shows how sprays also alter the visibility of the hair color by altering the surface topology of the hair fibers...
August 17, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
I Lozano, J B Saunie, S Panhar, G Loussouarn
OBJECTIVE: To study: i) the diversity of the natural colour of the human hair through both visual assessment of Hair Tone levels and colorimetric measurements of hair strands collected from 2057 human male and female volunteers, from 23 regions of the world and ii) the correlation between visual assessments and colorimetric measurements. METHODS: Hair strands were analysed by a spectro-colorimeter under the L* a* b* referential system and scored in vivo by experts before sampling, through standardized visual reference scales based on a 1-10 range...
August 9, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Bernd Traupe, Heike Fölster, Heiner Max, Jens Schulz
OBJECTIVE: Worldwide, individuals apply deodorants to combat malodor formation originating from the axillary vault. Considering the globally increasing demand for efficacious, safe deodorants, we investigated the antimicrobial effectiveness of a polymeric quaternary ammonium (PQ-16) compound as a new active in a roll-on formulation against microbial growth and axillary malodor. METHODS: We utilized an in vivo microbiological assessment to determine antimicrobial effects of the PQ-16-containing deodorant formulation (DEO1) i) in comparison to a commercially available deodorant roll-on claiming a 24 h protection against body odor (DEO2) and ii) in comparison to a roll-on containing the same formulation as DEO1 but comprising aluminum chlorohydrate instead of PQ-16 (DEO3) 1, 4, 8, 24, and 48 h after treatment...
August 9, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
I K Jung, S C Park, S H Kim, J H Kim, N R Cha, W R Bae, H N Kim, S A Cho, J W Yoo, B M Kim, J H Lee
OBJECTIVE: Coacervates are inevitably formed on scalp on using hair washing products. Our goal was to analyze the coacervates in detail to identify the part responsible for scalp stimulation. METHODS: Shampoo that increases coacervate formation was applied to in-vitro skin and was washed. The residue was then analyzed using Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy-focal plane array (FTIR-FPA), and X-ray photoelectron microscopy (XPS). And HaCaT cells were used for irritant test of coacervate...
August 9, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Kyeong Jin Kim, Song Hua Xuan, Soo Nam Park
OBJECTIVE: Licoricidin is an isoflavonoid isolated from Glycyrrhiza uralensis Fisher. In this study, we investigated the effects of licoricidin on photoaging of UVA-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). METHODS: In vitro ROS scavenging activity, cellular protective effect and inhibition of elastase activity was determined by Fe(3+) -EDTA/H2 O2 systems, photohemolysis and elastase activity assay respectively. Anti-oxidative capacity of the compound was evaluated by fluorescent ELISA and 2', 7'-dichlorofluorescin-diacetate (DCF-DA) assay...
August 9, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Li Ma, Yimei Tan, Shuli Zheng, Jing Li, Changqing Jiang, Zhichen Chen, Xuemin Wang
OBJECTIVE: Mechanical properties are considered to be vital factors that influence skin physiology during aging. Wrinkles and skin roughness are the two main features in aged skin. The purpose of this study is to characterize the relationship between facial skin mechanical properties and image features using quantitative methods. METHODS: Two hundred and forty healthy male and female volunteers living in Shanghai, China (aged 20-70 years old) were examined in this study...
August 4, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Eric Andres, Mouctar Barry, Alexander Hundt, Christophe Dini, Emanuela Corsini, Sue Gibbs, Erwin L Roggen, Pierre-Jacques Ferret
OBJECTIVE: The purpose of this study was to evaluate the performances of the RHE/IL-18 assay using the SkinEthic(™) RHE model for the identification of contact sensitizers. METHODS: A set of 18 substances and mixtures was tested on this epidermal model, following the RHE/IL-18 protocol. The final results of the assay were obtained following 5 interpretation schemes, in order to determine the optimal prediction model for this assay with this specific test system...
July 25, 2016: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
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