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International Journal of Cosmetic Science

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https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/30549286/a-highly-resistant-structure-between-the-cuticle-and-the-cortex-of-human-hair-ii-carb-a-penetration-barrier
#1
Toshie Takahashi
OBJECTIVE: We previously reported that a chemically resistant structure is present at the interface between the cuticle and the cortex of human hair. The goal of this study was to identify the position of that structure and to clarify its barrier ability. METHODS: Untreated, partially and completely decuticled hair fibers were characterized. The correlation between the number of cuticle layers and the penetration depth of a dye into the cortex was microscopically investigated...
December 14, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/30488456/assessing-changes-in-some-facial-signs-of-fatigue-in-chinese-women-induced-by-a-single-working-day
#2
Frederic Flament, Catherine Qiu, Aurelie Abric, Aude Charbonneau
BACKGROUND: The impacts of physical fatigue upon some facial signs, induced by a whole day work, have been previously described on Caucasian women. The present study aimed at assessing those possibly experienced by Chinese working women under comparable conditions. MATERIAL AND METHODS: Standard photographs of 60 Chinese women working in the same company (aged 20-40 y) were taken at three occasions during their working day (just before, at 4 and 8 hours). Focusing on facial signs allowed a panel of experts to grade their respective severities, helped by a referential atlas dedicated to Asian skin...
November 29, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/30485450/inhibitory-effects-of-sanguisorba-officinalis-root-extract-on-hybid-kiaa1199-mediated-hyaluronan-degradation-and-skin-wrinkling
#3
Hiroyuki Yoshida, Kohei Yamazaki, Aya Komiya, Mika Aoki, Shinya Kasamatsu, Takeshi Murata, Tetsuya Sayo, Mehmet Zeynel Cilek, Yasunori Okada, Yoshito Takahashi
OBJECTIVES: Hyaluronan (HA), an important constituent of extracellular matrix in the skin, has many biological activities such as hydration that contributes to firmness and bounciness of the skin. We have reported that reduction of HA in the papillary dermis and overexpression of HYBID (HYaluronan Binding protein Involved in hyaluronan Depolymerization, alias KIAA1199 or CEMIP), a key molecule for HA degradation in skin fibroblasts, are implicated in facial skin wrinkling in Japanese and Caucasian women...
November 28, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/30468516/3d-printed-franz-type-diffusion-cells
#4
Bruno C Sil, Miguel P Alvarez, Yanling Zhang, Chin-Ping Kung, Monjur Hossain, Fotis Iliopoulos, Lin Luo, Jonathan M Crowther, David J Moore, Jonathan Hadgraft, Stephen T Hilton
OBJECTIVE: Franz cells are routinely used to measure in vitro skin permeation of actives and must be inert to the permeant under study. The aim of the present work was to develop and manufacture transparent Franz-type diffusion cells using 3D printing and test these using a range of model active compounds. The study also aims to identify the critical 3D printing parameters necessary for the process including object design, choice of printing resin, printout curing and post-curing settings and introduction of model coatings...
November 23, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/30447108/sex-related-differences-in-response-to-zinc-pyrithione-shampoo-versus-non-anti-dandruff-shampoo
#5
L Z Collins, F L Baines, J R Matheson, G A Turner, Y Diao, Y Li, Y Pi
OBJECTIVE: Sex-related differences in skin properties may be expected to impact on dandruff formation and treatment. A meta-analysis approach was undertaken to investigate potential differences between males and females in response to zinc pyrithione (ZnPT) treatment versus non-anti-dandruff (AD) shampoo. A separate pooled statistical analysis of ceramide and total protein loss endpoints was also undertaken to assess potential sex-related differences in stratum corneum properties that might influence response to ZnPT versus non-AD shampoo in subjects with dandruff...
November 17, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/30431651/spectroscopy-used-as-a-tool-to-evaluate-hair-damage-and-protection
#6
Christiane Pavani, Divinomar Severino, Nathália Villa Dos Santos, Orlando Chiarelli-Neto, Maurício S Baptista
OBJECTIVE: Methods that can be used to analyze hair damage and to support a claim of hair protection are important for the cosmetic industry. There are many approaches available, but they are usually laborious and expensive. The researchers propose a simple fluorescence method that is based upon the emissive properties of damaged hair. METHODS: Hair fluorescence was observed when using both fluorimetry and microscopic procedures. The method was developed by comparing native hair with hair that was damaged by UVA and visible light...
November 15, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/30428143/photo-protection-against-visible-light-induced-pigmentation
#7
Eduardo Ruvolo, Michael Fair, Ashley Hutson, Frank Liebel
OBJECTIVE: This paper presents in vivo an in vitro studies demonstrating the induction of pigmentation in human skin by visible light which can be blocked by using formulation containing the correct amount of yellow iron oxide (YIO). METHODS: An in vitro absorption method was developed to determine the protection provided by a test formulation containing 4.5% YIO using an IPD UVA-VIS action spectrum. Following the development of the in vitro method and in vivo study with 10 normal healthy volunteers with Fitzpatrick skin phototypes IV to VI was conducted to verify if the predictive model...
November 14, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/30414278/effect-of-zein-additive-on-perfume-evaporation
#8
A Cabin-Flaman, A Delaune, P Poutrain, Y G Gangwe Nana, B Jourdain, D Gibouin, J P Paris, S Trestour, J M Seigneuret, A Léopoldès de Vendômois, P Cosette, J J Etienne, C Ripoll
OBJECTIVE: Zein is known to have filmogen properties. We wanted to show if a zein film containing eugenol (eugenol as model) would retain the fragrances, slow their evaporation and therefore produce a long lasting perception of perfume. METHODS: We added corn zein to eugenol in a hydro-alcoholic solution to form a film in vitro and at the surface of the human skin. We have studied the trapping and release of eugenol from zein film by GC/MS. Also we labeled eugenol with deuterium to image specifically its distribution in the zein film using Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry technique (NanoSIMS 50)...
November 10, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/30414275/cosmetic-benefit-of-a-biomimetic-lamellar-cream-formulation-on-barrier-function-or-the-appearance-of-fine-lines-and-wrinkles-in-randomised-proof-of-concept-clinical-studies
#9
Stephanie Nisbet, Harish Mahalingam, Christoph F Gfeller, Emma Biggs, Siobhan Lucas, Michael Thompson, Matthew R Cargill, David Moore, Stephan Bielfeldt
OBJECTIVE: Two studies were designed to evaluate the potential cosmetic benefit of a biomimetic, niacinamide-containing moisturising cream for the first time in humans. METHODS: In both studies, healthy women were randomised to use two treatments, one for the left side of the body and one for the right, from three options: the test cream, a positive control or no treatment (use of standard cleanser only). Treatments were applied twice daily for 4 weeks to the face and forearms (Study 1) or the face only (Study 2)...
November 10, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/30303546/influence-of-the-emollient-on-emulsions-containing-lamellar-liquid-crystals-from-molecular-organization-towards-applicative-properties
#10
Daria Terescenco, Geraldine Savary, Celine Picard, Florence Clemenceau, Emmanuelle Merat, Michel Grisel
The sensory perception of cosmetic emulsions is complex as it is governed by an important number of parameters like the choice of raw materials, their interactions, the structural organisation of the system, etc. The aim of the present work was to go further in the interpretation of the emollient-surfactant interactions, towards the emulsions applicative properties. For this purpose, two systems containing liquid crystals of the lamellar type were formulated, differing only in the selected emollient METHODS: First, the liquid crystals types were checked using different tools like the optical microscopy under the bright and polarized light, the wide-angle X rays diffraction and, finally, thermogravimetric analysis...
October 10, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/30300456/-green-uv-led-gel-nail-polishes-from-bio-based-materials
#11
Forough Zareanshahraki, Vijay Mannari
OBJECTIVE: Gel nail polishes represent an advanced class of nail polishes, with the ability to cure under ultraviolet (UV) radiation, and consequently demonstrate improved properties and greater durability compared to conventional nail polishes. Most gel nail polishes available today are based on petrochemical resources, making them unsustainable. Bio-based materials are excellent renewable resources, with high potential for meeting final-product performance, cost, and environmental needs...
October 9, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/30286269/lipid-organization-in-xerosis-the-key-of-the-problem
#12
Raoul Vyumvuhore, Rime Michael-Jubeli, Laurie Verzeaux, David Boudier, Maud Le Guillou, Sylvie Bordes, Danielle Libong, Ali Tfayli, Michel Manfait, Brigitte Closs
OBJECTIVE: Although xerosis is a common skin disorder among the population, there is no in vivo global study focusing on xerotic skin. Hence, the objective of this study was to characterize xerotic skin from the surface to the molecular scale with in vivo and non-invasive approaches. METHODS: For this purpose, 15 healthy volunteers with normal skin and 19 healthy volunteers with xerotic skin were selected by a dermatologist thanks to a visual scorage. Firstly, the skin surface was characterized with biometric measurements...
October 4, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/30222197/efficacy-of-an-agonist-of-%C3%AE-msh-the-palmitoyl-tetrapeptide-20-in-hair-pigmentation
#13
S Almeida Scalvino, A Chapelle, N Hajem, E Lati, P Gasser, J-C Choulot, L Michel, M Hocquaux, E Loing, J Attia, J Wdzieczak-Bakala
OBJECTIVE: Hair greying (i.e., canities) is a component of chronological ageing and occurs regardless of gender or ethnicity. Canities is directly linked to the loss of melanin and increase in oxidative stress in the hair follicle and shaft. To promote hair pigmentation and reduce the hair greying process, an agonist of α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH), a biomimetic peptide (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-20; PTP20) was developed. The aim of this study was to describe the effects of the designed peptide on hair greying...
October 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/30193000/visualization-of-zinc-pyrithione-particles-deposited-on-the-scalp-from-a-shampoo-by-tape-strip-sampling-and-scanning-electron-microscopy-energy-dispersive-x-ray-spectroscopy-measurement
#14
G Chen, C Ji, L Z Collins, M Hoptroff, H-G Janssen
OBJECTIVE: Zinc pyrithione (ZnPT) is widely used as an anti-fungal active in commercial anti-dandruff (AD) shampoos. The AD efficacy of ZnPT is highly dependent on the deposition of ZnPT particles onto the scalp during the process of shampoo application and rinse-off. Since ZnPT materials with different particle sizes and morphologies have different deposition behaviours, the measurement of the actual ZnPT deposition is critical to understand the AD performance delivered by different ZnPT shampoos...
October 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/30192376/evaluating-age-related-changes-of-some-facial-signs-among-men-of-four-different-ethnic-groups
#15
F Flament, D Amar, C Feltin, R Bazin
BACKGROUND: The alterations of some facial characteristics, with age, in men of different ethnic groups are a scarcely studied topic. OBJECTIVE: To illustrate and grade, among men of four different ethnic descents (Asians, African-Americans, Caucasians, Indians), aged 18-80 year, the changes in the severity of some facial signs occurring with age. METHODS: Digital Photographs (full face, profile, 45°) of 1058 subjects were taken under standard conditions of lightning...
October 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/30171630/reinforcement-of-barrier-function-skin-repair-formulations-to-deliver-physiological-lipids-into-skin
#16
Z Zhang, M Lukic, S Savic, D J Lunter
OBJECTIVE: The aim of the study was to develop formulations to deliver physiological lipids into skin in an attempt to repair defective barrier function. METHODS: Physiological cholesterol and linoleic acid were incorporated into basic cream and non-ionic cream to prepare skin repair formulations. Homogeneity and storage stability of the developed creams were examined by polarized light microscopy. Ex vivo evaluation was conducted using lipid-deficient skin samples and confocal Raman microspectroscopy...
October 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/30229956/the-physical-and-chemical-disruption-of-human-hair-after-bleaching-studies-by-transmission-electron-microscopy-and-redox-proteomics
#17
Anita J Grosvenor, Santanu Deb-Choudhury, Paul G Middlewood, Ancy Thomas, Erin Lee, James A Vernon, Joy L Woods, Cheryl Taylor, Fraser I Bell, Stefan Clerens
OBJECTIVE: To understand the structural and chemical effects of cosmetic peroxide bleaching on human hair. Methods Human hair was progressively bleached using alkaline peroxide-persulfate treatment. Proteins lost through leaching were examined using amino acid analysis and mass spectrometric sequencing. Fibre damage was assessed using transmission electron microscopy, amino acid analysis, and redox proteomics. RESULTS: Protein loss through leaching increased with bleaching severity...
September 19, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/30155940/defining-and-validating-a-body-skin-discomfort-index-bsdi
#18
E Segot-Chicq, S Salah, M Jullien, N Portal, C Deschodt, D Gagnebien
OBJECTIVE: To understand the drivers of body skin discomfort and to validate a new index to assess its severity. This index should be sensitive enough to capture changes in response to treatment. METHODS: Previous consumer studies suggested seven potential main dimensions behind skin discomfort. Four of them refer to self-declarations (stinging, itching, warming and tightening), whereas three can be assessed by a dermatologist (skin dryness, redness and desquamation)...
August 29, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/30144361/review-of-hair-follicle-dermal-papilla-cells-as-in-vitro-screening-model-for-hair-growth
#19
REVIEW
Alka Madaan, Ritu Verma, Anu T Singh, Manu Jaggi
Hair disorders such as hair loss (alopecia) and androgen dependent, excessive hair growth (hirsutism, hypertrichosis) may impact the social and psychological well-being of an individual. Recent advances in understanding the biology of hair have accelerated the research and development of novel therapeutic and cosmetic hair growth agents. Preclinical models aid in dermocosmetic efficacy testing and claim substantiation of hair growth modulators. The in vitro models to investigate hair growth utilize the hair follicle Dermal Papilla cells (DPCs), specialized mesenchymal cells located at the base of hair follicle that play essential roles in hair follicular morphogenesis and postnatal hair growth cycles...
August 25, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/30112861/a-severe-chronic-outdoor-urban-pollution-alters-some-facial-aging-signs-in-chinese-women-a-tale-of-two-cities
#20
F Flament, N Bourokba, S Nouveau, J Li, A Charbonneau
BACKGROUND: The impact of a chronic outdoor urban pollution on skin aging-related facial signs is a poorly referenced topic. OBJECTIVE: To assess, through visual grading and referential photographic atlas, possible differences in some facial signs between Chinese women, of comparable ages, living in two close cities very differently exposed to urban pollution. METHODS: The faces of two cohorts of 204 Chinese women (2 × 102) of same age-groups (25-45 years), living in Baoding (a highly polluted city) and Dalian (a less polluted city), for at least 15 years, have been analyzed...
August 16, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
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