Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skin.

PURPOSE: To determine whether formulations containing ceramides (including a ceramide with a long hydroxyl acyl chain linked to a linoleate, CER EOS) and fatty acids are able to repair the skin barrier by normalizing the lipid organization in stratum corneum (SC).

METHODS: The formulations were applied on a skin barrier repair model consisting of ex vivo human skin from which SC was removed by stripping. The effect of formulations on the lipid organization and conformational ordering in the regenerated SC were analyzed using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and small angle X-ray diffraction.

RESULTS: Application of the formulation containing only one ceramide on regenerating SC resulted in a higher fraction of lipids adopting an orthorhombic organization. A similar fraction of lipids forming an orthorhombic organization was observed after application of a formulation containing two ceramides and a fatty acid on regenerating SC. No effects on the lamellar lipid organization were observed.

CONCLUSIONS: Application of a formulation containing either a single ceramide or two ceramides and a fatty acid on regenerating SC, resulted in a denser lateral lipid packing of the SC lipids in compromised skin. The strongest effect was observed after application of a formulation containing a single ceramide.