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https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/29578838/reliability-and-validity-of-finger-strength-and-endurance-measurements-in-rock-climbing
#1
Michail Lubomirov Michailov, Jiří Baláš, Stoyan Kolev Tanev, Hristo Stoyanov Andonov, Jan Kodejška, Lee Brown
PURPOSE: An advanced system for the assessment of climbing-specific performance was developed and used to: (a) investigate the effect of arm fixation (AF) on construct validity evidence and reliability of climbing-specific finger-strength measurement; (b) assess reliability of finger-strength and endurance measurements; and (c) evaluate the relationship between finger flexor all-out test scores and climbing ability. METHODS: To determine the effect of AF, 22 male climbers performed 2 maximal strength and all-out tests with AF (shoulder and elbow flexed at 90°) and without AF (shoulder flexed at 180° and elbow fully extended)...
March 26, 2018: Research Quarterly for Exercise and Sport
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/29520248/development-and-initial-validation-of-a-rock-climbing-craving-questionnaire-rccq
#2
Gareth Roderique-Davies, Robert M Heirene, Stephen Mellalieu, David A Shearer
Conceptual similarities have been identified between experiences of extreme sports athletes and those with drug and behavioral addictions. Evidence suggests rock climbers experience craving and other withdrawal-like states when abstinent from their sport. However, no studies have attempted to quantitatively measure the craving experienced by participants of any extreme sports. Such a measure could allow a greater understanding of the craving experienced by extreme sports athletes and a comparison of these across sports (e...
2018: Frontiers in Psychology
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/29466027/effect-of-cold-water-immersion-on-handgrip-performance-in-rock-climbers
#3
Jan Kodejška, Jiří Baláš, Nick Draper
PURPOSE: The aim of this study was to determine the effect of two cold water immersion (CWI) temperatures (15° C and 8° C) on repeat handgrip performance to failure. METHODS: Thirty-two participants completed three intermittent trials to failure on a climbing-specific handgrip dynamometer on three laboratory visits. For each visit a different recovery strategy was employed: passive recovery (PAS), cold water immersion at 8° C (CW8) or 15° C (CW15). The force time integral (FTI - time of contraction multiplied by the force of contraction) was determined to assess handgrip performance...
February 21, 2018: International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/29372650/dr-catherine-louisa-corbett-mb-chb-dph-1877-1960-diary-in-serbia-her-work-with-the-scottish-women-s-hospitals-in-serbia-and-russia-1915-1917
#4
Peter D Mohr
Catherine Corbett was the second woman to gain a medical degree from the University of Manchester Medical School in 1905; however, little was known about her life or work, apart from the fact that she was a School Medical Inspector (SMI) and never married. The rediscovery of her Diary in Serbia (1916) has revealed her work for the Scottish Women's Hospitals (SWH) during the First World War in Serbia (1915-1916). Her time alongside her female colleagues was a good experience, however the harsh conditions, especially those she experienced during a further period working in Russia (1916-1917), left her exhausted and psychologically stressed...
January 1, 2018: Journal of Medical Biography
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/29369955/reliability-of-near-infrared-spectroscopy-for-measuring-intermittent-handgrip-contractions-in-sport-climbers
#5
Jiří Baláš, Jan Kodejška, Dominika Krupková, Johan Hannsmann, Simon Fryer
Baláš, J, Kodejška, J, Krupková, D, Hannsmann, J, and Fryer, S. Reliability of near-infrared spectroscopy for measuring intermittent handgrip contractions in sport climbers. J Strength Cond Res 32(2): 494-501, 2018-The use of near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS) to investigate muscle oxygenation changes during physical tasks such as rock climbing has rapidly increased within recent years; yet, there is no known measure of reliability. The current study aimed to determine intersession reliability and minimal detectable change (MDC) of continuous wave NIRS parameters during intermittent handgrip contractions in rock climbers...
February 2018: Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/29305941/traumatic-urethraggia-in-adolescence-ushering-in-the-new-age-of-extreme-sports
#6
Isabelle Hodge, Ahmed Adam, Murthy Chennapragada, Albert Tiu, Aniruddh V Deshpande
Herein, we describe a case of a 14-year-old boy with straddle injury to the base of the penis, sustained during an indoor rock climbing accident, who presented with severe urethraggia. Urethral injury was confirmed with retrograde urethrography. The patient became hemodynamically unstable from persistent blood loss, and corporal arterial injury was diagnosed on computed tomography angiography. The urethraggia was successfully controlled with angioembolization. The unique aspects of this case were the challenges in establishing the diagnosis on the background of the abnormal presentation of vascular injury of blood loss as opposed to painless priapism...
January 3, 2018: Urology
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/29298072/new-insights-into-hydride-bonding-dynamics-and-migration-in-la-2-liho-3-oxyhydride
#7
Øystein S Fjellvåg, Jeff Armstrong, Ponniah Vajeeston, Anja O Sjåstad
Hydride anion-conducting oxyhydrides have recently emerged as a brand new class of ionic conductors. Here we shed a first light onto their local vibrations, bonding mechanisms, and anion migration properties using the powerful combination of high-resolution inelastic neutron scattering and a set of rigorously experimentally validated density functional theory calculations. By means of charge-density analysis we establish the bonding to be strongly anisotropic; ionic in the perovskite layer and covalent in the rock salt layer...
January 18, 2018: Journal of Physical Chemistry Letters
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/29250899/an-uncommon-localization-of-black-heels-in-a-free-climbing-instructor
#8
Antonella Tammaro, Francesca Magri, Elisa Moliterni, Francesca Romana Parisella, Matteo Mondello, Severino Persechino
Black heels, also known as talon noir or calcaneal petechiae, are asymptomatic superficial cutaneous haemorrhages of the feet, mostly seen as post-traumatic lesions in young athletic individuals who practice sports such as tennis, football, or gymnastics. Here, we present a case of black heels in a young male rock climber.
December 17, 2017: International Wound Journal
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/29218364/ultrasound-evaluation-of-stress-injuries-and-physiological-adaptations-in-the-fingers-of-adolescent-competitive-rock-climbers
#9
Kathryn Garcia, Diego Jaramillo, Erika Rubesova
BACKGROUND: The impact of high-intensity, repetitive training on the fingers of adolescent climbers is relatively unknown. OBJECTIVE: To evaluate this effect by ultrasound (US) and to confirm some findings by magnetic resonance imaging (MRI). MATERIALS AND METHODS: The US study was performed in 20 adolescent rock climbers (ages 10-17 years) and 6 non-climbing controls (ages 11-15 years). US was used to examine the third digit of the right hand for differences in thickness of soft tissue, flexor and extensor tendon, volar plate and bony and growth plate adaptations...
March 2018: Pediatric Radiology
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/29079241/ankle-fracture-associated-with-rupture-of-the-achilles-tendon-case-report-and-review-of-the-literature
#10
Mohammed Elmajee, Asan Rafee, Tolupe Williams
Solitary ankle fracture or Achilles Tendon (AT) rupture might not be an uncommon injury. However, concomitant ipsilateral ankle fracture with AT rupture is rare. The present report discusses this rare combination. A 30-year-old female had fallen while rock climbing and sustained a closed fracture of the medial malleolus with an ipsilateral complete AT rupture. Most of the reported cases had similar patterns, not only in terms of history, but also in terms of a similar fracture pattern. This rare combination of orthopedic injuries tends to occur when an abrupt excessive force is applied to the forefoot, with subsequent ankle hyperextension or hindfoot inversion...
November 2017: Journal of Foot and Ankle Surgery: Official Publication of the American College of Foot and Ankle Surgeons
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/29077294/-nontraumatic-medical-emergencies-in-mountain-rescues
#11
Eva Sierra Quintana, Carmen María Martínez Caballero, Sara Abigail Batista Pardo, Salas Abella Barraca, María de la Vieja Soriano
OBJECTIVES: To describe the clinical and epidemiologic characteristics of patients with nontraumatic medical problems rescued by a Spanish mountain emergency response service (061 Aragon). MATERIAL AND METHODS: Retrospective observational analysis of records of mountain rescues completed between July 2010 and December 2016. RESULTS: A total of 164 patients with nontraumatic medical emergencies were rescued; 82.3% were males. Most patients were between the ages of 50 and 59 years...
October 2017: Emergencias: revista de la Sociedad Española de Medicina de Emergencias
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/29055297/rock-climbing-a-local-global-algorithm-to-compute-minimum-energy-and-minimum-free-energy-pathways
#12
Clark Templeton, Szu-Hua Chen, Arman Fathizadeh, Ron Elber
The calculation of minimum energy or minimum free energy paths is an important step in the quantitative and qualitative studies of chemical and physical processes. The computations of these coordinates present a significant challenge and have attracted considerable theoretical and computational interest. Here we present a new local-global approach to study reaction coordinates, based on a gradual optimization of an action. Like other global algorithms, it provides a path between known reactants and products, but it uses a local algorithm to extend the current path in small steps...
October 21, 2017: Journal of Chemical Physics
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28953920/there-s-more-than-one-way-to-climb-a-tree-limb-length-and-microhabitat-use-in-lizards-with-toe-pads
#13
Travis J Hagey, Scott Harte, Mathew Vickers, Luke J Harmon, Lin Schwarzkopf
Ecomorphology links microhabitat and morphology. By comparing ecomorphological associations across clades, we can investigate the extent to which evolution can produce similar solutions in response to similar challenges. While Anolis lizards represent a well-studied example of repeated convergent evolution, very few studies have investigated the ecomorphology of geckos. Similar to anoles, gekkonid lizards have independently evolved adhesive toe pads and many species are scansorial. We quantified gecko and anole limb length and microhabitat use, finding that geckos tend to have shorter limbs than anoles...
2017: PloS One
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28945641/four-weeks-of-finger-grip-training-increases-the-rate-of-force-development-and-the-maximal-force-in-elite-and-world-top-ranking-climbers
#14
Guillaume Levernier, Guillaume Laffaye
The goal of this study was to assess the impact of a specific four-week training program on finger grip in climbers; specifically, on the maximal force and the rate of force development (RFD) of finger muscles in isometric contraction. The participants were 14 French male rock climbers who took part in national and international bouldering competitions (at world-ranking and elite levels). They were divided into two samples. The experimental group performed a specific four-week training program that included such exercises as suspensions on small holds at the rate of three times a week...
September 19, 2017: Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28939274/functional-and-sports-specific-outcome-after-surgical-repair-of-rotator-cuff-tears-in-rock-climbers
#15
Michael Simon, Dominik Popp, Christoph Lutter, Volker Schöffl
OBJECTIVE: The purpose of this study was to analyze the general (Constant Murley score) and sports-specific (change in International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation [UIAA] grade) outcome after surgical repair of rotator cuff injuries in rock climbers. METHODS: In a retrospective study, 12 rock climbers (10 men, 2 women; age 55 years; SD±9; range 28-66 years [mean±SD with range] with rotator cuff lesions were re-evaluated 27±16 (12-72) months after arthroscopic surgical repair of the rotator cuff of the shoulder...
December 2017: Wilderness & Environmental Medicine
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28860880/rock-climbing-and-acute-emotion-regulation-in-patients-with-major-depressive-disorder-in-the-context-of-a-psychological-inpatient-treatment-a-controlled-pilot-trial
#16
Maria Kleinstäuber, Merle Reuter, Norbert Doll, Andreas J Fallgatter
BACKGROUND: Major depressive disorder is characterized by deficits in emotion regulation. This study examined associations between rock climbing and acute emotion regulating effects in patients with major depression. PATIENTS AND METHODS: In a nonrandomized, controlled study, 40 major depressive disorder inpatients were assigned to either a climbing session (n=20) or a relaxation session (n=20). Positive and negative affect, depressiveness, and coping emotions were assessed immediately before and after the session...
2017: Psychology Research and Behavior Management
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28771525/the-role-of-physique-strength-and-endurance-in-the-achievements-of-elite-climbers
#17
Mariusz Ozimek, Robert Rokowski, Paweł Draga, Vladimir Ljakh, Tadeusz Ambroży, Marcin Krawczyk, Tomasz Ręgwelski, Arkadiusz Stanula, Karol Görner, Adam Jurczak, Dariusz Mucha
PURPOSE: The primary aim of this study is to determine the principal somatic and motor determinants for elite climbers. METHODS: Twenty climbers were examined [age: 28.5±6.1 years].The runners were divided into two groups based on their climbing level, according to the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA). Elite climbers represented a 8b-8c Rotpunkt (RP) climbing level (n = 6), and advanced climbers represented an 7c+-8a RP level (n = 14). The following measurements were assessed: height, weight, lean body mass, upper limb length, arm span, and forearm, arm, thigh and calf circumference...
2017: PloS One
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28767727/rock-climbing-alters-plant-species-composition-cover-and-richness-in-mediterranean-limestone-cliffs
#18
Juan Lorite, Fabio Serrano, Adrián Lorenzo, Eva M Cañadas, Miguel Ballesteros, Julio Peñas
Rock climbing is among the outdoor activities that have undergone the highest growth since the second half of the 20th century. As a result, cliff habitats, historically one of the least disturbed by human colonization worldwide, are facing more intense human pressure than ever before. However, there is little data on the impact of this activity in plant-communities, and such information is indispensable for adequate manager decision-making. The goal of this study was to determine the impact of rock climbing on plant communities in terms of cover, richness, and composition in relation to climbing intensity on typical Mediterranean limestone cliffs...
2017: PloS One
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28755819/descriptive-epidemiology-medical-evaluation-and-outcomes-of-rock-climbing-injuries
#19
James W McDonald, A Michael Henrie, Masaru Teramoto, Edward Medina, Stuart E Willick
OBJECTIVE: To gather epidemiologic data on injury type, treatment, and recovery from rock climbing injuries. METHODS: Design: retrospective cross-sectional study. SETTING: web-based survey. PARTICIPANTS: rock climbers who sustained a climbing-related injury during the prior 24 months. Criteria for inclusion: aged ≥18 years; participation in rock climbing at least 4 times per year in the United States. INTERVENTIONS: none...
September 2017: Wilderness & Environmental Medicine
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28753391/differences-in-forearm-strength-endurance-and-hemodynamic-kinetics-between-male-boulderers-and-lead-rock-climbers
#20
COMPARATIVE STUDY
S Fryer, K J Stone, J Sveen, T Dickson, V España-Romero, D Giles, J Baláš, L Stoner, N Draper
This study examined differences in the oxygenation kinetics and strength and endurance characteristics of boulderers and lead sport climbers. Using near infrared spectroscopy, 13-boulderers, 10-lead climbers, and 10-controls completed assessments of oxidative capacity index and muscle oxygen consumption (m⩒O2) in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP), and extensor digitorum communis (EDC). Additionally, forearm strength (maximal volitional contraction MVC), endurance (force-time integral FTI at 40% MVC), and forearm volume (FAV and ΔFAV) was assessed...
October 2017: European Journal of Sport Science
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