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https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28771525/the-role-of-physique-strength-and-endurance-in-the-achievements-of-elite-climbers
#1
Mariusz Ozimek, Robert Rokowski, Paweł Draga, Vladimir Ljakh, Tadeusz Ambroży, Marcin Krawczyk, Tomasz Ręgwelski, Arkadiusz Stanula, Karol Görner, Adam Jurczak, Dariusz Mucha
PURPOSE: The primary aim of this study is to determine the principal somatic and motor determinants for elite climbers. METHODS: Twenty climbers were examined [age: 28.5±6.1 years].The runners were divided into two groups based on their climbing level, according to the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA). Elite climbers represented a 8b-8c Rotpunkt (RP) climbing level (n = 6), and advanced climbers represented an 7c+-8a RP level (n = 14). The following measurements were assessed: height, weight, lean body mass, upper limb length, arm span, and forearm, arm, thigh and calf circumference...
2017: PloS One
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28767727/rock-climbing-alters-plant-species-composition-cover-and-richness-in-mediterranean-limestone-cliffs
#2
Juan Lorite, Fabio Serrano, Adrián Lorenzo, Eva M Cañadas, Miguel Ballesteros, Julio Peñas
Rock climbing is among the outdoor activities that have undergone the highest growth since the second half of the 20th century. As a result, cliff habitats, historically one of the least disturbed by human colonization worldwide, are facing more intense human pressure than ever before. However, there is little data on the impact of this activity in plant-communities, and such information is indispensable for adequate manager decision-making. The goal of this study was to determine the impact of rock climbing on plant communities in terms of cover, richness, and composition in relation to climbing intensity on typical Mediterranean limestone cliffs...
2017: PloS One
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28755819/descriptive-epidemiology-medical-evaluation-and-outcomes-of-rock-climbing-injuries
#3
James W McDonald, A Michael Henrie, Masaru Teramoto, Edward Medina, Stuart E Willick
OBJECTIVE: To gather epidemiologic data on injury type, treatment, and recovery from rock climbing injuries. METHODS: Design: retrospective cross-sectional study. SETTING: web-based survey. PARTICIPANTS: rock climbers who sustained a climbing-related injury during the prior 24 months. Criteria for inclusion: aged ≥18 years; participation in rock climbing at least 4 times per year in the United States. INTERVENTIONS: none...
July 26, 2017: Wilderness & Environmental Medicine
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28753391/differences-in-forearm-strength-endurance-and-hemodynamic-kinetics-between-male-boulderers-and-lead-rock-climbers
#4
S Fryer, K J Stone, J Sveen, T Dickson, V España-Romero, D Giles, J Baláš, L Stoner, N Draper
This study examined differences in the oxygenation kinetics and strength and endurance characteristics of boulderers and lead sport climbers. Using near infrared spectroscopy, 13-boulderers, 10-lead climbers, and 10-controls completed assessments of oxidative capacity index and muscle oxygen consumption (mV˙O2) in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP), and extensor digitorum communis (EDC). Additionally, forearm strength (maximal volitional contraction MVC), endurance (force-time integral FTI at 40% MVC), and forearm volume (FAV and ΔFAV) was assessed...
July 28, 2017: European Journal of Sport Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28696958/rock-climbing-related-bone-marrow-edema-of-the-hand-a-follow-up-study
#5
Christoph Lutter, Thomas Hochholzer, Thomas Bayer, Volker Schöffl
OBJECTIVE: Sport climbers strain passive and active anatomical structures of their hands and fingers to the maximum during training or competition. This study was designed to investigate bone marrow edema (BME) in rock climbing athletes. DESIGN: Systematic detection, treatment, and follow-up investigation of rock climbing athletes with BME of the hand. SETTING: Primary-level orthopedic surgery and sports medicine division of a large academic medical center...
July 6, 2017: Clinical Journal of Sport Medicine: Official Journal of the Canadian Academy of Sport Medicine
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28644933/survey-of-hand-and-upper-extremity-injuries-among-rock-climbers
#6
Clayton E Nelson, Ghazi M Rayan, Dustin I Judd, Kai Ding, Julie A Stoner
BACKGROUND: Rock climbing first evolved as a sport in the late 18th century. With its growing popularity, the number of rock climbing-related injuries has potential to increase, spurring a rise in the number of articles associated with it. Despite the available literature, there remains a paucity of information about upper extremity injuries sustained by rock climbers, and no studies to date have focused on gender-specific injuries. METHODS: A 24-question online survey was distributed to rock climbers about upper extremity injuries sustained during rock climbing...
July 2017: Hand: Official Journal of the American Association for Hand Surgery
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28532279/the-effect-of-cold-ambient-temperatures-on-climbing-specific-finger-flexor-performance
#7
Kevin Phillips, Byungjoo Noh, Matthew Gage, Tejin Yoon
Different ambient temperatures are known to affect muscular performance based on the type of contraction. The effect of cold (10°C) and thermoneutral (TN) (24°C) ambient temperatures on finger flexor performance was examined in 12 rock climbers. After 30 min of seated rest in the designated temperature condition, participants completed maximal voluntary contractions (MVC) on a climbing-specific finger flexor assessment device equipped with a crimp grip hold. Participants then completed an intermittent fatiguing task until failure...
August 2017: European Journal of Sport Science
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28514129/-hand-injuries-in-rock-climbers
#8
REVIEW
Hagay Orbach, Guy Rubin, Alejandro Wolovelsky, Micha Rinott, Uriel Giwnewer, Nimrod Rozen
Rock climbing, whether practiced in nature on cliffs and boulders or indoors on walls made of resin and wood, has gained tremendous popularity in recent decades. More people are exposed to injuries associated with the unique biomechanical forces of rock climbing. A series of repetitive high torque movements of the upper limbs are needed to ascend a wall or rockface. These movements subject the hand and wrist to large forces, potentially resulting in ligament and tendon sprains or rupture and even bone fracture...
July 2016: Harefuah
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28478863/experience-of-chronic-sorrow-in-mothers-of-children-with-cancer-a-phenomenological-study
#9
Lida Nikfarid, Maryam Rassouli, Leili Borimnejad, Hamid Alavimajd
PURPOSE: Chronic sorrow is a multidimensional concept experienced by mothers of children suffering with chronic conditions, e.g. cancer. Little is known about the concept of chronic sorrow and related issues/experiences among mothers of children with cancer living in Iran. This study aimed to explore the concept of chronic sorrow, based on the lived experiences of chronic sorrow experienced in a group of Iranian mothers of children with cancer. METHODS: In this hermeneutic phenomenological study, 8 mothers of children with cancer participated in semi structured, in-depth interviews about their experiences of chronic sorrow...
June 2017: European Journal of Oncology Nursing: the Official Journal of European Oncology Nursing Society
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28348942/biochemistry-in-endeavor-adventure-racers-study-bears
#10
Matthew Wetschler, David Radler, Mark Christensen, Grant Lipman
BACKGROUND:  Adventure sports events consist of a combination of two or more endurance disciplines, such as orienteering, running, and rock climbing, that range from a day's to a week's duration. No studies have examined acute kidney injury (AKI) in adventure sports athletes. OBJECTIVES: To describe the prevalence of AKI in participants in the Endeavor Team Challenge, a 30-hour, 40-mile adventure race. METHODS: In this prospective observational study, body weights were recorded at race registration...
February 11, 2017: Curēus
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28301444/hemodynamic-and-cardiorespiratory-predictors-of-sport-rock-climbing-performance
#11
Simon Fryer, David Giles, Inmaculada Garrido Palomino, Alejandro de la O Puerta, Vanesa España Romero
Rock climbing performance has been suggested to involve a notable contribution from the aerobic metabolism. Previously it has been shown that forearm oxygenation kinetics can be used to distinguish ability groups and predict red-point sport climbing performance. Currently it is not known if forearm oxygenation kinetics, or a sport specific assessment of cardiorespiratory fitness best predicts sport rock climbing performance. The aim of the study was to determine whether forearm oxidative capacity index, maximal de-oxygenation (Δ score) during a treadwall V[Combining Dot Above]O[SUBSCRIPT TWO]peak test, treadwall V[Combining Dot Above]O[SUBSCRIPT TWO]peak, or running V[Combining Dot Above]O[SUBSCRIPT TWO]max best predicts self-reported sport climbing performance...
March 13, 2017: Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28149428/analysis-of-tests-evaluating-sport-climbers-strength-and-isometric-endurance
#12
Mariusz Ozimek, Robert Staszkiewicz, Robert Rokowski, Arkadiusz Stanula
The present study was designed to determine which types of specific tests provide an effective evaluation of strength and endurance in highly trained competitive sport climbers. The research process consisted of three basic components: the measurement of selected somatic characteristics of the climbers, the assessment of their physical conditioning, and a search for correlations between the anthropometric and "conditioning" variables on the one hand, and climber's performance on the other. The sample of subjects consisted of 14 experienced volunteer climbers capable of handling 7a- 8a+/b on-sight rock climbing grades...
December 1, 2016: Journal of Human Kinetics
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/28121557/plans-on-a-roll-will-they-continue-to-rock
#13
Joseph Burns
Well, they've defied expectations so far. It was expected that MA enrollment would decline from 10.9 million enrollees (or 24% of all Medicare enrollment) to 8.2 million (15% of Medicare's total enrollment). Instead, enrollment has continued to climb. In 2016, 17.6 million Medicare beneficiaries-or 31% of all beneficiaries-were in MA plans.
December 2016: Managed Care
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/27793442/pulling-harder-than-the-hamate-tolerates-evaluation-of-hamate-injuries-in-rock-climbing-and-bouldering
#14
Christoph Lutter, Andreas Schweizer, Thomas Hochholzer, Thomas Bayer, Volker Schöffl
OBJECTIVE: Hamate hook fractures are rare injuries, comprising 2% to 4% of all carpal fractures. Climbing athletes seem to be affected more frequently than others, as they strain the passive and active anatomical structures of their hands and fingers to maximum capacity during training or competing. This stress is transmitted to the hook of the hamate by tightened flexor tendons, which creates high contact pressure to the ulnar margin of the carpal tunnel. Injuries of the hamate hook, caused by contact pressure of the anatomical structures, are rare and occur nearly exclusively during climbing...
December 2016: Wilderness & Environmental Medicine
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/27717977/ring-finger-lumbrical-origin-strain-a-case-series-with-imaging-findings
#15
Edward H Wang, William K Loftus, Stephen J Bird, Matthew J Sampson
Lumbrical strain is a relatively unknown hand injury. We report four cases of lumbrical origin strain involving the ring finger flexor tendons. Three patients sustained the injury during rock climbing and one while working with a jackhammer. In all cases, circumferential fluid around the flexor tendons of the ring finger was demonstrated on MRI and/or ultrasound at the distal palmar level at the "bare area," which is normally devoid of a synovial sheath. There is a paucity of information in the literature regarding this injury and its specific imaging features...
December 2016: Skeletal Radiology
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/27700230/rebuttal-near-infrared-spectroscopy-derived-forearm-oxygenation-does-predict-rock-climbing-performance
#16
Simon Fryer, Lee Stoner
No abstract text is available yet for this article.
November 2016: Journal of Sports Sciences
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/27635319/the-larvae-of-epigomphus-jannyae-belle-1993-and-e-tumefactus-calvert-1903-insecta-odonata-gomphidae
#17
Rodolfo Novelo-Gutiérrez, Alonso Ramírez, Débora Delgado
The taxonomic knowledge about immature stages of the insect order Odonata (dragonflies and damselflies) is rather limited in tropical America. Here, the larvae of Epigomphus jannyae Belle, 1993 and E. tumefactus Calvert, 1903 are described, figured, and compared with other described congeners. E. jannyae larva is characterized by 3rd antennomere 1.6 times longer than its widest part; ligula very poorly developed, with ten short, truncate teeth on middle; apical lobe of labial palp rounded and smooth. Lateral margins on abdominal segments (S5-9) serrated, lateral spines on S6-9 small and divergent; male epiproct with a pair of dorsal tubercles at basal 0...
2016: PeerJ
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/27619723/the-effect-of-magnesium-carbonate-chalk-on-geometric-entropy-force-and-electromyography-during-rock-climbing
#18
Matthew A Kilgas, Scott N Drum, Randall L Jensen, Kevin C Phillips, Phillip B Watts
Rock climbers believe chalk dries the hands of sweat and improves the static coefficient of friction between the hands and the surface of the rock. The purpose of this study was to assess whether chalk affects geometric entropy or muscular activity during rock climbing. Nineteen experienced recreational rock climbers (13 males, 6 females; 173.5 ± 7.0 cm; 67.5 ± 3.4 kg) completed 2 climbing trails with and without chalk. The body position of the climber and muscular activity of the finger flexors was recorded throughout the trial...
December 2016: Journal of Applied Biomechanics
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/27602305/microendemicity-in-the-northern-hajar-mountains-of-oman-and-the-united-arab-emirates-with-the-description-of-two-new-species-of-geckos-of-the-genus-asaccus-squamata-phyllodactylidae
#19
Salvador Carranza, Marc Simó-Riudalbas, Sithum Jayasinghe, Thomas Wilms, Johannes Els
BACKGROUND: The Hajar Mountains of Oman and the United Arab Emirates (UAE) is the highest mountain range in Eastern Arabia. As a result of their old geological origin, geographical isolation, complex topography and local climate, these mountains provide an important refuge for endemic and relict species of plants and animals with strong Indo-Iranian affinities. Among vertebrates, the rock climbing nocturnal geckos of the genus Asaccus represent the genus with the highest number of endemic species in the Hajar Mountains...
2016: PeerJ
https://www.readbyqxmd.com/read/27578538/comment-on-forearm-oxygenation-and-blood-flow-kinetics-during-a-sustained-contraction-in-multiple-ability-groups-of-rock-climbers
#20
Tim Halsey, Nigel Callender
We read with interest the authors' paper on this important area of climbing physiology. We however wish to highlight the incorrect identification of flexor carpi radialis (FCR) as a finger flexor and the implications it has for the conclusions described. FCR is a wrist flexor and has no direct bearing on flexion of the fingers during a climbing grip and thus could be expected to have a reduced oxygenation response compared to flexor digitorum profundus. We also would like to seek clarification from the authors regarding their confidence in their method for locating the two muscles under investigation as we feel this may not be accurately possible using the method described...
November 2016: Journal of Sports Sciences
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