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Rock climbing

Matthew Wetschler, David Radler, Mark Christensen, Grant Lipman
BACKGROUND:  Adventure sports events consist of a combination of two or more endurance disciplines, such as orienteering, running, and rock climbing, that range from a day's to a week's duration. No studies have examined acute kidney injury (AKI) in adventure sports athletes. OBJECTIVES: To describe the prevalence of AKI in participants in the Endeavor Team Challenge, a 30-hour, 40-mile adventure race. METHODS: In this prospective observational study, body weights were recorded at race registration...
February 11, 2017: Curēus
Simon Fryer, David Giles, Inmaculada Garrido Palomino, Alejandro de la O Puerta, Vanesa España Romero
Rock climbing performance has been suggested to involve a notable contribution from the aerobic metabolism. Previously it has been shown that forearm oxygenation kinetics can be used to distinguish ability groups and predict red-point sport climbing performance. Currently it is not known if forearm oxygenation kinetics, or a sport specific assessment of cardiorespiratory fitness best predicts sport rock climbing performance. The aim of the study was to determine whether forearm oxidative capacity index, maximal de-oxygenation (Δ score) during a treadwall V[Combining Dot Above]O[SUBSCRIPT TWO]peak test, treadwall V[Combining Dot Above]O[SUBSCRIPT TWO]peak, or running V[Combining Dot Above]O[SUBSCRIPT TWO]max best predicts self-reported sport climbing performance...
March 13, 2017: Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research
Mariusz Ozimek, Robert Staszkiewicz, Robert Rokowski, Arkadiusz Stanula
The present study was designed to determine which types of specific tests provide an effective evaluation of strength and endurance in highly trained competitive sport climbers. The research process consisted of three basic components: the measurement of selected somatic characteristics of the climbers, the assessment of their physical conditioning, and a search for correlations between the anthropometric and "conditioning" variables on the one hand, and climber's performance on the other. The sample of subjects consisted of 14 experienced volunteer climbers capable of handling 7a- 8a+/b on-sight rock climbing grades...
December 1, 2016: Journal of Human Kinetics
Joseph Burns
Well, they've defied expectations so far. It was expected that MA enrollment would decline from 10.9 million enrollees (or 24% of all Medicare enrollment) to 8.2 million (15% of Medicare's total enrollment). Instead, enrollment has continued to climb. In 2016, 17.6 million Medicare beneficiaries-or 31% of all beneficiaries-were in MA plans.
December 2016: Managed Care
Christoph Lutter, Andreas Schweizer, Thomas Hochholzer, Thomas Bayer, Volker Schöffl
OBJECTIVE: Hamate hook fractures are rare injuries, comprising 2% to 4% of all carpal fractures. Climbing athletes seem to be affected more frequently than others, as they strain the passive and active anatomical structures of their hands and fingers to maximum capacity during training or competing. This stress is transmitted to the hook of the hamate by tightened flexor tendons, which creates high contact pressure to the ulnar margin of the carpal tunnel. Injuries of the hamate hook, caused by contact pressure of the anatomical structures, are rare and occur nearly exclusively during climbing...
December 2016: Wilderness & Environmental Medicine
Edward H Wang, William K Loftus, Stephen J Bird, Matthew J Sampson
Lumbrical strain is a relatively unknown hand injury. We report four cases of lumbrical origin strain involving the ring finger flexor tendons. Three patients sustained the injury during rock climbing and one while working with a jackhammer. In all cases, circumferential fluid around the flexor tendons of the ring finger was demonstrated on MRI and/or ultrasound at the distal palmar level at the "bare area," which is normally devoid of a synovial sheath. There is a paucity of information in the literature regarding this injury and its specific imaging features...
December 2016: Skeletal Radiology
Simon Fryer, Lee Stoner
No abstract text is available yet for this article.
November 2016: Journal of Sports Sciences
Rodolfo Novelo-Gutiérrez, Alonso Ramírez, Débora Delgado
The taxonomic knowledge about immature stages of the insect order Odonata (dragonflies and damselflies) is rather limited in tropical America. Here, the larvae of Epigomphus jannyae Belle, 1993 and E. tumefactus Calvert, 1903 are described, figured, and compared with other described congeners. E. jannyae larva is characterized by 3rd antennomere 1.6 times longer than its widest part; ligula very poorly developed, with ten short, truncate teeth on middle; apical lobe of labial palp rounded and smooth. Lateral margins on abdominal segments (S5-9) serrated, lateral spines on S6-9 small and divergent; male epiproct with a pair of dorsal tubercles at basal 0...
2016: PeerJ
Matthew A Kilgas, Scott N Drum, Randall L Jensen, Kevin C Phillips, Phillip B Watts
Rock climbers believe chalk dries the hands of sweat and improves the static coefficient of friction between the hands and the surface of the rock. The purpose of this study was to assess whether chalk affects geometric entropy or muscular activity during rock climbing. Nineteen experienced recreational rock climbers (13 males, 6 females; 173.5 ± 7.0 cm; 67.5 ± 3.4 kg) completed 2 climbing trails with and without chalk. The body position of the climber and muscular activity of the finger flexors was recorded throughout the trial...
December 2016: Journal of Applied Biomechanics
Salvador Carranza, Marc Simó-Riudalbas, Sithum Jayasinghe, Thomas Wilms, Johannes Els
BACKGROUND: The Hajar Mountains of Oman and the United Arab Emirates (UAE) is the highest mountain range in Eastern Arabia. As a result of their old geological origin, geographical isolation, complex topography and local climate, these mountains provide an important refuge for endemic and relict species of plants and animals with strong Indo-Iranian affinities. Among vertebrates, the rock climbing nocturnal geckos of the genus Asaccus represent the genus with the highest number of endemic species in the Hajar Mountains...
2016: PeerJ
Tim Halsey, Nigel Callender
We read with interest the authors' paper on this important area of climbing physiology. We however wish to highlight the incorrect identification of flexor carpi radialis (FCR) as a finger flexor and the implications it has for the conclusions described. FCR is a wrist flexor and has no direct bearing on flexion of the fingers during a climbing grip and thus could be expected to have a reduced oxygenation response compared to flexor digitorum profundus. We also would like to seek clarification from the authors regarding their confidence in their method for locating the two muscles under investigation as we feel this may not be accurately possible using the method described...
November 2016: Journal of Sports Sciences
Dafna Sobel, Naama Constantin, Omer Or
Rock climbing is becoming an increasingly popular sport in Israel with more and more climbing walls being built in the cities and new routes being traced on cliffs around the country. Our account describes the case of a 15 years old climber with chronic pain (without trauma) in the 3rd finger of the right hand. A stress fracture, involving the proximal interphalangeal joint (SH3) of the middle phalanx, was diagnosed. The fracture healed following two months of rest with gradual return to activity. As this sport becomes more common, there is an increasing need for knowledge about the characteristic injuries, their diagnosis and treatment...
June 2016: Harefuah
Jiří Baláš, Michail Michailov, David Giles, Jan Kodejška, Michaela Panáčková, Simon Fryer
This study aimed to (1) evaluate the effect of hand shaking during recovery phases of intermittent testing on the time-force characteristics of performance and muscle oxygenation, and (2) assess inter-individual variability in the time to achieve the target force during intermittent testing in rock climbers. Twenty-two participants undertook three finger flexor endurance tests at 60% of their maximal voluntary contraction until failure. Performances of a sustained contraction and two intermittent contractions, each with different recovery strategies, were analysed by time-force parameters and near-infrared spectroscopy...
October 2016: European Journal of Sport Science
A Pozzi, G Pivato, L Pegoli
With the amazing increasing in number of participants, rock climbing has become a popular sport in the last decade. A growing number of participants, with different skill level, inevitably leads to an increased number of injuries related to this practice. The kind of lesions that can be observed in rock-climbers is very specific and often involves the hand. For this reason is very important for any hand surgeon that is exposed to sport injuries to know which and the most common injuries related to this sport and which are the basic principles for the treatment of those...
February 2016: Journal of Hand Surgery Asian-Pacific Volume
Adhityo Wicaksono, Saifullah Hidayat, Yudithia Damayanti, Desmond Soo Mun Jin, Erly Sintya, Bambang Retnoaji, Parvez Alam
In this article, we compare the characteristics of biomechanical attachment exhibited by two morphologically different mudskipper species, Boleophthalmus boddarti (with fused pelvic fins) and Periophthalmus variabilis (with unfused pelvic fins). P. variabilis is a tree and rock climber while B. boddarti dwells in the muddy shallows and is unable to climb. Our aim in this article is to determine whether it is predominantly chemical or morphological properties of the pelvic fins from each species that may allow P...
June 18, 2016: Zoology: Analysis of Complex Systems, ZACS
Jiří Baláš, David Giles, Leona Chrastinová, Kateřina Kárníková, Jan Kodejška, Alžběta Hlaváčková, Ladislav Vomáčko, Nick Draper
The aim of this study was to examine the effect of alterations in potential lead fall distance on the hormonal responses of rock climbers. Nine advanced female climbers completed two routes while clipping all (PRO-all) or half (PRO-½) of the fixed points of protection. Venous blood samples were analysed for total catecholamines, noradrenaline (norepinephrine), adrenaline (epinephrine), dopamine, lactate, cortisol and serotonin. Differences between the two conditions pre, immediately post and 15 min post climbing were assessed using a 2 × 3 repeated measures ANOVA...
July 11, 2016: Journal of Sports Sciences
Justin S Cargo, Timothy J Michael, Nicholas J Hanson, Carol A Weideman, Michael G Miller
No abstract text is available yet for this article.
May 2016: Medicine and Science in Sports and Exercise
Robert M Heirene, David Shearer, Gareth Roderique-Davies, Stephen D Mellalieu
Background and aims Extreme sports athletes are often labeled "adrenaline junkies" by the media, implying they are addicted to their sport. Research suggests during abstinence these athletes may experience withdrawal states characteristic of individuals with an addiction (Celsi, Rose, & Leigh, 1993; Franken, Zijlstra, & Muris, 2006; Willig, 2008). Despite this notion, no research has directly explored withdrawal experiences of extreme sports athletes. Methods Using semi-structured interviews, we explored withdrawal experiences of high (n = 4) and average-ability (n = 4) male rock climbers during periods of abstinence...
June 2016: Journal of Behavioral Addictions
Simon Fryer, Lee Stoner, K Stone, D Giles, Joakim Sveen, Inma Garrido, Vanesa España-Romero
UNLABELLED: Rock-climbing performance is largely dependent on the endurance of the forearm flexors. Recently, it was reported that forearm flexor endurance in elite climbers is independent of the ability to regulate conduit artery (brachial) blood flow, suggesting that endurance is not primarily dependent on the ability of the brachial artery to deliver oxygen, but rather the ability of the muscle to perfuse and use oxygen, i.e., skeletal muscle oxidative capacity. PURPOSE: The aim of the study was to determine whether an index of oxidative capacity in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) predicts the best sport climbing red-point grade within the last 6 months...
August 2016: European Journal of Applied Physiology
David Giles, Vanesa España Romero, Inmaculada Garrido, Alejandro de la O Puerta, Keeron Stone, Simon Fryer
PURPOSE: To examine differences in oxygenation kinetics in the nondominant and dominant flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) of rock climbers. METHODS: Participants were 28 sport climbers with a range of on-site abilities (6a+ to 8a French Sport). Using near-infrared spectroscopy, oxygenation kinetics of the FDP was assessed by calculating the time to half recovery (t1/2 recovery) of the tissue-saturation index (TSI) after 3-5 min of ischemia. RESULTS: A 2-way mixed-model ANOVA found a nonsignificant interaction (P = ...
January 2017: International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance
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