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Rock climbing

Edward H Wang, William K Loftus, Stephen J Bird, Matthew J Sampson
Lumbrical strain is a relatively unknown hand injury. We report four cases of lumbrical origin strain involving the ring finger flexor tendons. Three patients sustained the injury during rock climbing and one while working with a jackhammer. In all cases, circumferential fluid around the flexor tendons of the ring finger was demonstrated on MRI and/or ultrasound at the distal palmar level at the "bare area," which is normally devoid of a synovial sheath. There is a paucity of information in the literature regarding this injury and its specific imaging features...
October 7, 2016: Skeletal Radiology
Simon Fryer, Lee Stoner
No abstract text is available yet for this article.
October 4, 2016: Journal of Sports Sciences
Rodolfo Novelo-Gutiérrez, Alonso Ramírez, Débora Delgado
The taxonomic knowledge about immature stages of the insect order Odonata (dragonflies and damselflies) is rather limited in tropical America. Here, the larvae of Epigomphus jannyae Belle, 1993 and E. tumefactus Calvert, 1903 are described, figured, and compared with other described congeners. E. jannyae larva is characterized by 3rd antennomere 1.6 times longer than its widest part; ligula very poorly developed, with ten short, truncate teeth on middle; apical lobe of labial palp rounded and smooth. Lateral margins on abdominal segments (S5-9) serrated, lateral spines on S6-9 small and divergent; male epiproct with a pair of dorsal tubercles at basal 0...
2016: PeerJ
Matthew A Kilgas, Scott N Drum, Randall L Jensen, Kevin C Phillips, Phillip B Watts
Rock climbers believe chalk dries the hands of sweat and improves the static coefficient of friction between the hands and the surface of the rock. The purpose of this study was to assess whether or not chalk affects geometric entropy or muscular activity during rock climbing. Nineteen experienced recreational rock climbers (13 males, 6 females; 173.5 ± 7.0 cm; 67.5 ± 3.4 kg) completed two climbing trails with and without chalk. The body position of the climber, and muscular activity of the finger flexors was recorded throughout the trial...
September 6, 2016: Journal of Applied Biomechanics
Salvador Carranza, Marc Simó-Riudalbas, Sithum Jayasinghe, Thomas Wilms, Johannes Els
BACKGROUND: The Hajar Mountains of Oman and the United Arab Emirates (UAE) is the highest mountain range in Eastern Arabia. As a result of their old geological origin, geographical isolation, complex topography and local climate, these mountains provide an important refuge for endemic and relict species of plants and animals with strong Indo-Iranian affinities. Among vertebrates, the rock climbing nocturnal geckos of the genus Asaccus represent the genus with the highest number of endemic species in the Hajar Mountains...
2016: PeerJ
Tim Halsey, Nigel Callender
We read with interest the authors' paper on this important area of climbing physiology. We however wish to highlight the incorrect identification of flexor carpi radialis (FCR) as a finger flexor and the implications it has for the conclusions described. FCR is a wrist flexor and has no direct bearing on flexion of the fingers during a climbing grip and thus could be expected to have a reduced oxygenation response compared to flexor digitorum profundus. We also would like to seek clarification from the authors regarding their confidence in their method for locating the two muscles under investigation as we feel this may not be accurately possible using the method described...
August 31, 2016: Journal of Sports Sciences
Dafna Sobel, Naama Constantin, Omer Or
Rock climbing is becoming an increasingly popular sport in Israel with more and more climbing walls being built in the cities and new routes being traced on cliffs around the country. Our account describes the case of a 15 years old climber with chronic pain (without trauma) in the 3rd finger of the right hand. A stress fracture, involving the proximal interphalangeal joint (SH3) of the middle phalanx, was diagnosed. The fracture healed following two months of rest with gradual return to activity. As this sport becomes more common, there is an increasing need for knowledge about the characteristic injuries, their diagnosis and treatment...
June 2016: Harefuah
Jiří Baláš, Michail Michailov, David Giles, Jan Kodejška, Michaela Panáčková, Simon Fryer
This study aimed to (1) evaluate the effect of hand shaking during recovery phases of intermittent testing on the time-force characteristics of performance and muscle oxygenation, and (2) assess inter-individual variability in the time to achieve the target force during intermittent testing in rock climbers. Twenty-two participants undertook three finger flexor endurance tests at 60% of their maximal voluntary contraction until failure. Performances of a sustained contraction and two intermittent contractions, each with different recovery strategies, were analysed by time-force parameters and near-infrared spectroscopy...
October 2016: European Journal of Sport Science
A Pozzi, G Pivato, L Pegoli
With the amazing increasing in number of participants, rock climbing has become a popular sport in the last decade. A growing number of participants, with different skill level, inevitably leads to an increased number of injuries related to this practice. The kind of lesions that can be observed in rock-climbers is very specific and often involves the hand. For this reason is very important for any hand surgeon that is exposed to sport injuries to know which and the most common injuries related to this sport and which are the basic principles for the treatment of those...
February 2016: J Hand Surg Asian Pac Vol
Adhityo Wicaksono, Saifullah Hidayat, Yudithia Damayanti, Desmond Soo Mun Jin, Erly Sintya, Bambang Retnoaji, Parvez Alam
In this article, we compare the characteristics of biomechanical attachment exhibited by two morphologically different mudskipper species, Boleophthalmus boddarti (with fused pelvic fins) and Periophthalmus variabilis (with unfused pelvic fins). P. variabilis is a tree and rock climber while B. boddarti dwells in the muddy shallows and is unable to climb. Our aim in this article is to determine whether it is predominantly chemical or morphological properties of the pelvic fins from each species that may allow P...
June 18, 2016: Zoology: Analysis of Complex Systems, ZACS
Jiří Baláš, David Giles, Leona Chrastinová, Kateřina Kárníková, Jan Kodejška, Alžběta Hlaváčková, Ladislav Vomáčko, Nick Draper
The aim of this study was to examine the effect of alterations in potential lead fall distance on the hormonal responses of rock climbers. Nine advanced female climbers completed two routes while clipping all (PRO-all) or half (PRO-½) of the fixed points of protection. Venous blood samples were analysed for total catecholamines, noradrenaline (norepinephrine), adrenaline (epinephrine), dopamine, lactate, cortisol and serotonin. Differences between the two conditions pre, immediately post and 15 min post climbing were assessed using a 2 × 3 repeated measures ANOVA...
July 11, 2016: Journal of Sports Sciences
Justin S Cargo, Timothy J Michael, Nicholas J Hanson, Carol A Weideman, Michael G Miller
No abstract text is available yet for this article.
May 2016: Medicine and Science in Sports and Exercise
Robert M Heirene, David Shearer, Gareth Roderique-Davies, Stephen D Mellalieu
Background and aims Extreme sports athletes are often labeled "adrenaline junkies" by the media, implying they are addicted to their sport. Research suggests during abstinence these athletes may experience withdrawal states characteristic of individuals with an addiction (Celsi, Rose, & Leigh, 1993; Franken, Zijlstra, & Muris, 2006; Willig, 2008). Despite this notion, no research has directly explored withdrawal experiences of extreme sports athletes. Methods Using semi-structured interviews, we explored withdrawal experiences of high (n = 4) and average-ability (n = 4) male rock climbers during periods of abstinence...
June 2016: Journal of Behavioral Addictions
Simon Fryer, Lee Stoner, K Stone, D Giles, Joakim Sveen, Inma Garrido, Vanesa España-Romero
UNLABELLED: Rock-climbing performance is largely dependent on the endurance of the forearm flexors. Recently, it was reported that forearm flexor endurance in elite climbers is independent of the ability to regulate conduit artery (brachial) blood flow, suggesting that endurance is not primarily dependent on the ability of the brachial artery to deliver oxygen, but rather the ability of the muscle to perfuse and use oxygen, i.e., skeletal muscle oxidative capacity. PURPOSE: The aim of the study was to determine whether an index of oxidative capacity in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) predicts the best sport climbing red-point grade within the last 6 months...
August 2016: European Journal of Applied Physiology
David A Giles, Vanesa España-Romero, Inmaculada Garrido, Alex de la O Puerta, Keeron Stone, Simon Fryer
PURPOSE: This study examined differences in oxygenation kinetics in the non-dominant and dominant flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) of rock climbers. METHODS: Participants consisted of 28 sport climbers with a range of on-sight abilities (6a+ to 8a French Sport). Using near infrared spectroscopy, oxygenation kinetics of the FDP was assessed by calculating the time to half recovery (t½ recovery) of the tissue saturation index (TSI) following 3-5 min of ischemia. RESULTS: A 2-way mixed model ANOVA found a non-significant interaction (p =0...
May 3, 2016: International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance
Micha Schneeberger, Andreas Schweizer
OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the effectiveness of conservative treatment of finger flexor tendon pulley rupture with a pulley-protection splint (PPS) with regard to reduction in tendon-phalanx distance (TPD) and functional and sport-specific outcomes in a retrospective case series. METHODS: Tendon-phalanx distance in active forced flexion was measured before and after treatment in ultrasound records. Functional and sport-specific outcomes were evaluated by means of a questionnaire, which also contained instructions for self-measurement of finger range of motion and finger strength...
June 2016: Wilderness & Environmental Medicine
Volker Schöffl, Christoph Lutter, Dominik Popp
Acute injuries in rock climbing either come from a fall onto the lower leg or from performing a hard move and injuring the upper extremity. Further evaluations of lower leg injuries in rock climbing athletes have been performed recently finding sport characteristics such as peroneal tendon dislocations or chronic deformations of the feet. One injury mechanism described in case reports is the so-called heel hook position, which is used more frequently today compared with the beginngs of rock climbing. In addition, the number of these injuries is expected to rise with the increase in popularity of climbing and bouldering...
June 2016: Wilderness & Environmental Medicine
M Bouyer, A Forli, A Semere, B J Chedal Bornu, D Corcella, F Moutet
UNLABELLED: This study evaluated recovery of sport performance and correction of bowstringing after surgical reconstruction of closed finger pulley rupture in high-level rock climbers. A total of 38 patients treated with an extensor retinaculum graft were assessed. The mean follow-up time was 85 months, and 30 patients returned to their previous climbing level. The mean total active motion score was 96% of the opposite side. All patients had an excellent Buck-Gramcko score. There was no significant difference in grip strength and tip pinch strength in the crimp position between the injured side and the opposite side...
May 2016: Journal of Hand Surgery, European Volume
Pedro L Valenzuela, Pedro de la Villa, Carmen Ferragut
Performing intra-session recovery is important in rock climbing due to the multiple efforts that climbers are required to make in competitions, as well as repeated climbing trials that they carry out during training sessions. Active recovery has been shown to be a better option than passive recovery. However, the type of active recovery that should be done and the influence of the type and quantity of muscle mass activated are not clear. The aim of this study was to compare the effects of recovering with easy climbing (CR) or walking (WR) on markers of fatigue and climbing performance...
December 2015: Journal of Sports Science & Medicine
Maria Chiara Gallotta, Gian Pietro Emerenziani, Maria Dolores Monteiro, Luigi Iasevoli, Sara Iazzoni, Carlo Baldari, Laura Guidetti
The aim of the study was to compare the psychophysical effects of rock climbing with a supervised fitness training in adults. Thirty-three healthy participants (M age=32 yr., SD=7) participated in rock climbing or in fitness training. The participants' functional fitness, anxiety, and mood states were tested before and after 3 mo. of training. There was significant improvement of physical fitness in both groups after the intervention period. Anxiety significantly decreased after each single training session at the end of both courses...
December 2015: Perceptual and Motor Skills
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