Journal of Cosmetic Science

Cationic conditioning polymers have a role as deposition aids for depositing benefit agents such as silicone polymers and are used in shampoo formulations to provide improved combing properties, feel, and look. The objective of this work was to develop synthetic high-performance polymeric conditioning agents that exhibit conditioning performance as good as, or better than, the current commercially available polymers. We describe the application of high throughput methods to identify high-performance synthetic hair-conditioning polymers through using high throughput combinatorial methods for polymer synthesis and screening to prepare several hundred cationic polymer candidates...

This study aimed to develop a topical emulgel formulation from olive oil and lemongrass (LG) extracts and to evaluate its in vitro and in vivo (sensorial) properties in addition to its sun protection factor (SPF) value. The primary emulsion and the gel were prepared separately, and then they were levigated together to formulate the emulgel. The produced emulgel was evaluated for its physical appearance, pH, spreadability, and stability. The SPF value of emulgel was evaluated by applying the Mansur equation...

Colorants for cosmetics appear to be more strictly regulated than any other cosmetic ingredients. Most countries have adopted a positive regulatory system for colorants used in cosmetics. Although there have been many reports on colorants that are used in food products from regulatory perspectives, reports on colorants used in cosmetic products have been limited. The objective of this report is to provide different countries' regulatory requirements and to encourage the cosmetic industry to export products in compliance with global regulations through a comparative analysis of cosmetic colorant regulatory systems in major countries...

Cosmetics are preparations used to improve and enhance human appearance. The concept of beauty and cosmetics is as ancient as mankind and civilization. The use of plants and herbs for cosmetics was started in ancient times. Egyptians believed that healing plants possess supernatural power. Herbs used for cosmetics in China are popular and are biologically active in today's cosmetics. The most commonly used herb, as a cosmetic in India, is turmeric, which is still in use as the beauty routine before the wedding...

Melasma is a common, acquired, circumscribed hypermelanosis of sun-exposed skin. It presents as symmetric, hyperpigmented macules having irregular, serrated, and geographic borders. Compare the efficacy of 35% gycolic acid (GA) peel vs. Jessner peel (JP) as an adjuvant to topical triple combination (2% Hydroquinone, 0.025% tretinoin, 0.01% Fluocinolone acetonide) therapy in Melasma in females. Sixty cases of Melasma attending Skin-VD OPD, Baroda Medical College from September 1, 2016 to July 30,/2017 were enrolled...

Recently, we described that the weight ratio ( R ) between behenyl alcohol (BO) and behenic acid (BA) in sunflower oil effects the textural and structural properties of the oleogel system. One R (7:3) was found as optimal since it led to an enhancement of the oleogel properties for both the hardness and the stability in terms of oil-binding capacity. However, what remains unknown is the effect of other vegetable oils. Therefore, in this study, we aim to test a range of different vegetable oils that are widely used in the cosmetic industry...

Negative health effects of active and passive smokers have been widely described, but the effect of tobacco smoke on the skin has been less explored. In this study, an analytical methodology has been developed to evaluate the dermal permeation of hazardous compounds present in tobacco smoke, using an exposition chamber to simulate finite and infinite smoking conditions, in vitro vertical Franz diffusion cells, and Strat-M® membranes as human skin simulants. Moreover, the antipollution effect of three cosmetics has been evaluated, showing a significant efficacy to reduce dermal permeation of hazardous tobacco-smoke compounds such as of nicotine and aromatic hydrocarbons...

Benzyl acetate, which has a crucial role in the industry as a flavor and fragrance component, is important for human health to be obtained with a green and clean process. For this purpose, the esterification reaction of acetic acid (AA) and benzyl alcohol (BA) was investigated using five different ionic liquids (ILs) as catalysts. 1-Ethyl-3-methylimidazolium hydrogen sulfate, [EMIM] [HSO4 ], 1-Ethyl-3-methylimidazolium tetrafluoroborate [EMIM] [BF4 ], 1-methyl-3-octylimidazolium tetrafluoroborate [OMIM] [BF4 ], 1-ethyl-3-methylimidazolium bis [(trifluoromethyl)sulfonyl] imide [EMIM] [NTf2 ], and 1,3-diethylimidazolium bis [(trifluoromethyl)sulfonyl] imide [DEIM] [NTf2 ] were used as catalysts...

A separation/analysis of allura red based on magnetic solid-phase extraction-high-performance liquid chromatography was developed. The extractant was prepared by functionalizing choline proline ionic liquid on Fe3 O4 @SiO2 (Fe3 O4 @SiO2 @[Ch][Pro]). Infl uences of experimental variables including extraction condition (material amount, pH, time, temperature, ionic strength, and sample volume) and elution conditions (eluent selection, amount, time) were evaluated. Under the optimal conditions, good linear calibration curves were obtained in the range of 0...

Increased public awareness regarding the ingredients that make up cosmetic and personal care formulations coupled with the growing concern about the dwindling nonrenewable sources from which most cosmetic ingredients like surfactants and polymers are obtained from has led to a strong need to achieve sustainability within the cosmetic industry. It has become the need of the hour to incorporate sustainability at each and every point of the product life cycle. This review focuses on the sustainable sourcing and formulation design of two key cosmetic ingredients-polymers and surfactants...

In the present study, the required hydrophilic lipophilic balance (HLB) values of Citrus unshiu fruit oil (CUFO), Citrus unshiu peel oil (CUPO), horse fat (HF), and Camellia japonica seed oil were determined empirically by preparing oil-in-water (o/w) emulsions. Lipophilic and hydrophilic surfactants were prepared in various ratios in o/w emulsion. The droplet size of the emulsion was measured using a particle size analyzer, and the turbidity was measured using a turbidity meter and a ultraviolet (UV)-vis spectrophotometer...

Chemical peeling can reduce skin hyperpigmentation; however, once exhausted its thinning action, the depigmentation process does not continue further. We carried out a monocentric, prospective, noncontrolled study aimed at the evaluation of the efficacy, safety, ease of use, pleasantness, and tolerability of a depigmentation topical treatment program in women submitted to a previous chemical peeling. The topical treatment has been administered daily for 30 days to 16 women submitted to a chemical peeling containing a fixed-dose combination of salicylic acid, pyruvic acid, and retinoic acid within 7 days before study inclusion...

In this study, we investigated the antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties of Cnidium officinale hexane (COH) extract and senkyunolide A (SA). The antibacterial activities were measured using the paper disk diffusion method and minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) against Propionibacterium acnes and Malassezia furfur . COH extract showed antibacterial activity at a concentration of 50 mg ml-1 . The MICs of COH and SA were determined using the broth microdilution method. COH was found to be active on all the bacteria tested (10 ≤ MIC ≤ 20 mg ml-1 )...

Subversion bias, a type of selection bias, through manipulation of subject recruitment compromises data validity. This study explores the possibility of subversion bias in sunscreen sun protection factor (SPF) testing. It has been established that subjects with lower minimal erythemal dose (MED) values exhibit higher sunscreen SPF values. Consistency of this response is determined in subjects who participated in multiple sunscreen efficacy clinical trials. All trials determined the SPF of the sunscreen standard P2...

Excessive and daily inhalation of talcum, a main ingredient of face powders, causes pulmonary talcosis, which has led to the replacement of talcum with safer natural ingredients. RiceSorb® , or Oryza sativa starch from Japanese rice, was used as an alternative owing to its nontoxic and excellent oil absorption capacity. The objectives of the present work were to formulate loose face powders from RiceSorb® and to investigate the physicochemical properties of the prepared formulations. Five formulations of loose face powders were prepared by varying the ratios between talcum and RiceSorb® : 4:0 (FT0), 3:1 (FT1), 1:1 (FT2), 1:3 (FT3), and 0:4 (FT4)...

Lecythis pisonis nuts are rich in tocopherols, polyphenols, and fatty acids, and hence, the quality of oil was analyzed for use in the elaboration of skin cream. Nut oil was extracted with hexane in a Soxhlet apparatus. The quality and safety of the oil were tested by using established protocols from Adolf Lutz Institute. Three concentrations, 1%, 5%, and 10%, of oil were incorporated into a formulated cream. The oil formulations were evaluated for their stability, organoleptic characteristics, pH, viscosity, spreadability, challenge test, cellular viability, and their response to microbial contamination, as recommended by the National Health Surveillance Agency (ANVISA)...

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Melanin, in people with naturally pigmented skins, offers a high level of photoprotection against the adverse molecular and clinical effects of solar ultraviolet radiation but, in contrast, has a modest inhibitory effect on vitamin D synthesis. Tanning in those with light skin offers relatively modest photoprotection. Sunscreens have the potential to offer high levels of protection in people who lack melanin. In theory, sunscreens can give protection comparable with that of deeply pigmented skin. This depends on the labeled sun protection factor (SPF) which in turn depends on how well the sunscreen is applied...

Our defense against solar ultraviolet (UV) damage to skin comprises endogenous mechanisms of DNA repair and pigmentation, and exogenous application of light-absorbing and reflecting sunscreens. Our most important endogenous defense, DNA repair, has been the focus of molecular and clinical research, and recent advances are summarized here. The approach of using microbial DNA repair enzymes to augment the natural DNA repair capacity of skin has gained acceptance in many commercial products, and clinical studies have supported their benefits...

Skin exposure to solar radiation can cause many adverse effects. In addition to the sun protection factor (SPF), a parameter associated with Ultraviolet B (UVB) protection, significant evidence emphasized the crucial importance of a well-balanced protection against ultraviolet A (UVA) and for some indications, against high-energy visible light. Synergy between UV filters and filter photostability together with film-forming ingredients such as polymers that ensure the homogeneous distribution of UV filters on the skin are key factors to avoid UVA- and UVB-provoked detrimental effects of solar radiation...