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Journal of Cosmetic Science

Karl Shiqing Wei, Ching Stella, Kenneth R Wehmeyer, Jeremy Christman, Amy Altemeier, Russell Spruell, Rohan L Wimalasena, Gina M Fadayel, Raymond A Reilman, Safa Motlagh, Peter J Stoffolano, Kathleen Benzing, R Randall Wickett
The skin on the lower legs of 25 female subjects was evaluated first in the winter, and then again in the summer of the same subjects. Barrier function was determined by measuring transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin hydration and dryness were evaluated by electrical measurements (Corneometer ® CM825) and visual grading. Stratum corneum (SC) was sampled using 10 sequential D-Squame sampling discs and analyzed for 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid (PCA), keratin-1,10,11, interleukin 1α (IL-1α), interleukin 1 receptor antagonist (IL-1ra), selected ceramides, cholesterol, cholesterol sulfate, and selected free fatty acids...
May 2016: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Li Yuanxi, Hua Wei, Xiiong Lidan, Li Li
This study aims to assess the moisturization in combination or single use (including seven general applications) of three common moisturizers: cream, toner, and spray water. Groups were set as C: cream only; T: toner only; C+T, T+C: cream or toner applied successively within a few minutes; C-T, C-S: cream applied with repeated toner or spray water every 2 h; T-T: toner applied with repeated toner every 2 h; and N: untreated group. Outcomes were the change in skin hydration from baseline at 2, 4, 6, and 8 h after applications...
May 2016: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Mayuree Kanlayavattanakul, Natamon Kasikawatana, Nattaya Lourith
An inexpensive, rapid method for the determination of octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) in sunscreen products using ultraviolet-spectrophotometry has been developed and validated according to International Council for Harmonisation and Association of Official Analytical Chemists guidelines. Methanol was the optimal solvent used with a linearity range of 4–12 µg\/ml (r = 0.999) being obtainable. The accuracy of the method is highlighted by the % recovery (98.23–98.50) and relative standard deviation (%RSD, 0...
May 2016: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Chanchanok Nualsri, Nattaya Lourith, Mayuree Kanlayavattanakul
Green tea has cosmetic benefits that include activities against androgen disorders. A hair tonic containing green tea for reduction of scalp sebum was developed and clinically evaluated. Stable green tea hair tonics were closed-patch tested and clinically evaluated in 20 volunteers for 28 days by using a Sebumeter ® . Hair tonic base with glycerin and butylene glycol (total 4%) gained the highest consumers’ preference was incorporated with green tea extract. All of the products were stable and none caused skin irritation...
May 2016: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Timothy Gillece, Roger L McMullen, Hani Fares, Larry Senak, Seher Ozkan, Linda Foltis
Identifying meaningful and measurable rheological parameters that shadow the dynamic shear stresses sustained in the initial application and subsequent spreading of structured cosmetic formulations onto the skin is quite challenging. When applied to non-Newtonian soft solids, traditional oscillatory rheological testing tends to best correlate with the “at-rest” state, or, more fundamentally, with the initial and thermodynamically reversible perturbations in the physiochemical networking that binds components of the amalgamated microstructure...
May 2016: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Ximena Wortsman
No abstract text is available yet for this article.
March 2016: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Xin Qu, Xiaomin Zhao, Zhihua Chen
A new in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) test method to determine the efficacy of sun care products is proposed and evaluated. Based on ultraviolet (UV) dose cumulate response protocols, the new method employs Gafchromic EBT3 film, a self-developing dosimetry film originally created for applications in radiotherapy. Unlike the current standardized method, a UV spectrophotometer is not required. In vitro SPF values of 15 commercial products were measured with EBT3 film and compared with labeled in vivo SPF values...
March 2016: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Celia Ludwinski, Axelle Clochard-Bossuet, Theresa Chen, Kelsey Norwood, Christian Oresajo
Consumer perception of longitudinal striations of the nail is one of the drivers of nail cosmetic purchase and use. The following work investigates the use of objective instrumental methods for the characterization of longitudinal striations. Striations are quantified by Ra (the average maximum height of the profile), Rq (the root mean square average of the roughness profile), and Rz (the mean roughness depth), industrial roughness parameters, which are calculated using optical profilometry of the three-dimensional surface structure of the nail...
March 2016: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Raffaele Saladino, Ugo Chiocchini, Giorgia Botta, Michela Delfino, Roberto Conigliaro, Pasquale Mosesso
Natural peloids from sulfurous thermal springs are largely used in cosmetic and pelotherapy for the treatment of different dermatological conditions, including skin aging, dermatitis, and other eczemas. The beneficial effects are correlated to mineralogical and other thermal properties, as well as to the presence of natural substances with specific antioxidant activity. Few data are available for the comparison between natural peloids and synthetic (i.e., artificially maturated) muds. In this context, the natural substances and antioxidant activity of natural white mud (WM) and dark mud (DM) peloids from the sulfurous thermal spring pool Bagnaccio (Viterbo, Italy) have been studied in detail to evaluate possible relationships between physicochemical properties and therapeutic effect...
March 2016: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Jochen Kleinen, Joachim Venzmer
Surfactant formulations are often based on an anionic primary surfactant combined with an amphoteric secondary surfactant. One popular option is the combination of lauryl ether sulfate and cocamidopropyl betaine, because such formulations are not only mild but also easy to thicken. Changes in the molecular structure of the betaine in terms of alkyl chain length distribution and headgroup structure do have dramatic effects on the viscosity of these formulations, as can be explained in terms of properties of rod-like micelles and exchange kinetics by oscillatory rheological measurements...
March 2016: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Di Qu, G Paul Seehra
The skin elasticity parameters (Ue, Uv, Uf, Ur, Ua, and R0 through R9) in the Cutometer are widely used for in vivo measurement of skin elasticity. Their accuracy, however, is impaired by the inadequacy of the definition of a key parameter, the time point of 0.1 s, which separates the elastic and viscoelastic responses of human skin. This study shows why an inflection point (t(IP)) should be calculated from each individual response curve to define skin elasticity, and how the Q-parameters are defined in the Cutometer...
January 2016: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Brindan Tulachan, Sushil K Singh, Deepu Philip, Mainak Das
Electrical conductivity of human hair is a debatable issue among hair experts and scientists. There are unsubstantiated claims that hair conducts electricity. However, hair experts provided ample evidence that hair is an insulator. Although wet hair exhibited drastic reduction in resistivity; scientists regarded hair as a proton semiconductor at the best. Here, we demonstrate that hair filaments generate electricity on absorbing water vapor between 50 degrees and 80 degrees C. This electricity can operate low power electronic systems...
January 2016: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Nadine Pernodet, Kelly Dong, Edward Pelle
Autophagic mechanisms play critical roles in cell maintenance. Damaged organelles that are not removed by autophagosomes, which act by engulfing and degrading these cellular components, have been linked to various pathologies. Recently, the progression of aging has also been correlated to a compromised autophagic response. Here, we report for the first time a significant reduction in autophagic levels in synchronized aged normal human skin fibroblasts as compared to young fibroblasts. We measured a 77.9% reduction in autophagy as determined by reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction for LC3B expression, a microtubule-associated protein correlated to late stage autophagosome formation...
January 2016: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Guojin Zhang, Roger L McMullen, Lidia Kulcsar
Color fastness is a major concern for consumers and manufacturers of oxidative hair dye products. Hair dye loss results from multiple wash cycles in which the hair dye is dissolved by water and leaches from the hair shaft. In this study, we carried out a series of measurements to help us better understand the kinetics of the leaching process and pathways associated with its escape from the fiber. Hair dye leaching kinetics was measured by suspending hair in a dissolution apparatus and monitoring the dye concentration in solution (leached dye) with an ultraviolet-visible spectrophotometer...
January 2016: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Gerald M Levine, Levine Samuel
No abstract text is available yet for this article.
November 2015: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Roger L McMullen, Guojin Zhang, Timothy Gillece
The manipulation of hair shape, either to straighten or curl hair, is carried out on a grand scale in the hair care consumer market. Often, such changes are brought about through chemical or physical treatment, resulting in changes to hair chemistry. In this article, we review existing and present new data on methods to assess the efficacy of such treatments, mostly concentrating on imaging technologies used in conjunction with image analysis. In addition, we introduce spectroscopic imaging techniques and fluorescence spectrophotometry as tools to assess the biochemical state of the hair fiber as a result of hair shape modification regimens...
November 2015: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Mayuree Kanlayavattanakul, Nattaya Lourith
The volatile profiles of aroma extracts prepared from the flower of Gardenia jasminoides by different methods were investigated using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. The enfleurage extraction using spermaceti wax and palm oil afforded the best aroma extract with a preference that was significantly (p < 0.05) better than those from solvent extractions, as sensorially evaluated in 43 volunteers. The odor quality of the absolute de enfleurage was similar to the floral scent of fresh gardenia, as confirmed in 152 volunteers...
November 2015: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Fatma Lecheb, Salem Benamara
This article reports on the feasibility study of a cosmetic cream added with aqueous extract and oil from date (Phoenix dactylifera L.) fruit seed using experimental design. First, the mixture design was applied to optimize the cosmetic formula. The responses (dependent variables) were the spreadability (YSp) and viscosity (YVis), the factors (independent variables) being the weight proportions of the fatty phase (X1), the aqueous date seed extract (X2), and the beeswax (X3). Second, the cosmetic stability study was conducted by applying a full factorial design...
November 2015: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Sawsan Shahin, Saja Hamed, Hatim S Alkhatib
The physical stability of Dead Sea mud mask formulations under different conditions and their rheological properties were evaluated as a function of the type and level of thickeners, level of the humectant, incorporation of ethanol, and mode of mud treatment. Formulations were evaluated in terms of visual appearance, pH, moisture content, spreadability, extrudability, separation, rate of drying at 32 degrees C, and rheological properties. Prepared mud formulations and over-the-shelf products showed viscoplastic shear thinning behavior; satisfactory rheological behavior was observed with formulations containing a total concentration of thickeners less than 10% (w/w)...
November 2015: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Hande Sipahi, Mohammad Charehsaz, Zerrin Güngör, Onur Erdem, Buğra Soykut, Cemal Akay, Ahmet Aydin
Cosmetics are one of the most common reasons for hospital referrals with allergic contact dermatitis. Because of the increased use of cosmetics within the population and an increase in allergy cases, monitoring of heavy metals, especially allergen metals, is crucial. The aim of this study was to investigate the concentration of allergen metals, nickel (Ni), cobalt (Co), and chromium (Cr), in the most commonly used cosmetic products including mascara, eyeliner, eye shadow, lipstick, and nail polish. In addition, for safety assessment of cosmetic products, margin of safety of the metals was evaluated...
September 2015: Journal of Cosmetic Science
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