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Journal of Cosmetic Science

Yu-Xiang Gu, Jin-Qin Yang, Si-Yi Pan, Lei Wang, Ze-Lin Zhou
Five distyryl-type fluorescent whitening agents (FWA85, 210, 220, 351, and 353) were determined in cosmetics and liquid detergent by high-performance liquid chromatography with diode array detector in tandem with fluorescence detector. The samples were extracted with ultrasound in 33% acetonitrile for 10 minutes and the components were determined by ion-pair chromatography on an MG C18 column. The limits of detection were from 0.01 to 0.1 mg·kg-1 and the limits of quantification were from 0.04 to 0.4 mg·kg-1 ...
July 2018: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Saja Hamed, Abdel-Majeed Almalty
Dead Sea mud (DSM) is commonly used by patients with various skin conditions because of its contents of healing elements. No study was published to show whether DSM application weakens or strengthens skin barrier function. In this study, we investigated the impact of 30-minute single application of various types of DSM ("As Is" mud, mud with extra Dead Sea salt, and over-the-shelf mud) on the barrier function of normal skin. The influence of 30-minute application of various types of DSM was investigated noninvasively on skin barrier properties of healthy female adult volunteers ( n = 75) on predetermined circular areas...
July 2018: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Naveed Ullah Khan, Atif Ali, Hira Khan, Zaheer Ullah Khan, Zia Ahmed
Glutathione reduced (GSH) is the mother of all the antioxidants and has an antimelanogenic effect. It is extremely vulnerable to oxidation in the solution form which limits its use. The GSH in nano-oil droplets present a potential solution to this problem. The aim of this study was to formulate glutathione-loaded nanoemulsion and assess its stability studies over a 90-day testing period. To formulate GSH-loaded nanoemulsion pseudo-ternary phase diagram, it was built with various concentrations of water, liquid paraffin oil, and surfactant mixture (Tween 80 and Span 80)...
July 2018: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Anna Gliszczyńska-Świgło, Patrycja Nowak, Renata Dobrucka, Katarzyna Pawlak-Lemańska
FT-NIR spectroscopy and color measurements were applied to evaluate the influence of packaging on cosmetic cream stored at room and refrigerated conditions. Commercial cosmetic cream was stored for 2 and 4 mo in five containers intended for cosmetics: aluminum jar with polypropylene thermos (Al/PP), acrylic jar with polypropylene thermos (Ac/PP), glass (G) jar, polypropylene (PP) jar, and styrene acrylonitrile (SAN) jars. Principal component analysis (PCA) of the FT-NIR spectra showed the effect of time on tested samples stored in all applied packagings; separate groups were formed by fresh samples and samples stored for 2 and 4 mo...
July 2018: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Wayne C Liao, Yu-Ting Huang, Li-Ping Lu, Wen-Ying Huang
3- O -ethyl ascorbic acid may be a good whitening ingredient in cosmetics. However, before it can be successfully used in cosmetics, its biofunctionality and stability need to be comprehensively investigated. The reduction and 2,2-Diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) free radical scavenging ability of this compound were analyzed to assess its antioxidant potential. In addition, the tyrosinase inhibitory ability was analyzed to show the whitening capacity of 3- O -ethyl ascorbic acid. Response surface methodology (RSM) was used to determine the optimal conditions for the ascorbic acid derivative in cosmetics...
July 2018: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Jung M Seo, Suzie Cheng, Nadia Soliman, Zeenat Nabi, Long Pan
Regular usage of cosmetic products and drugs in dermatological vehicles may cause irritant contact dermatitis. For example, aluminum chloride (AlCl3 ), the most efficacious antiperspirant salt to treat hyperhidrosis, shows high irritancy potential. To mitigate the irritant contact dermatitis caused by topical application of products containing AlCl3 , we investigated the anti-irritating effects of aloe extract and taurine in vitro and in vivo . In an in vitro experiment, reconstructed human epidermis model, EpiDerm, was tested with AlCl3 in the presence or absence of taurine and aloe extract...
May 2018: Journal of Cosmetic Science
William Thompson, Diane Kennedy, Timothy Gillece, Roger L McMullen, Larry Senak, Hani Fares
A mechanistic understanding of the role of polymers in waterproofing anhydrous sunscreen formulations has been hypothesized in the past, but has never been clearly established. In this article, we demonstrate the utility of field emission scanning electron microscopy (SEM) to generate images of sunscreen films in the presence and absence of several polymers. VA/butyl maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymer was studied alone and in combination with hydroxypropyl cellulose and acrylates/dimethicone copolymer. Anhydrous sunscreen formulations were sprayed onto stratum corneum substrates and left to dry...
May 2018: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Geert R Verheyen, Tom Ooms, Liesbeth Vogels, Steven Vreysen, Ann Bovy, Sabine Van Miert, Filip Meersman
Insects may provide an environmentally friendly way of producing high-quality bio-based materials that can be implemented for cosmetic applications. Insects can be bred on organic waste, in high numbers, and on small surfaces, therefore, making large scale industrial breeding possible. Fats from three insect species: the black soldier fly (BSF) ( Hermetia illucens ), the locust ( Locusta migratoria ), and the house cricket ( Acheta domesticus ) were evaluated for potential use in skin care. Insects were dried and fats were extracted using petroleum ether...
May 2018: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Sabine Pain, Nicolas Berthélémy, Corinne Naudin, Véronique Degrave, Valérie André-Frei
Photoageing, also called actinic ageing, is the main cause of prematurely aged skin. Our expertise in elastic fibers has led us to discover a process triggered in response to ultraviolet (UV) light and which upsets the balance of elastin fibers: there is too much elastin and insufficient lysyl oxidase (LOXL1) enzyme to form functional elastic fibers. This imbalance then leads to an accumulation of nonfunctional elastin, which forms aggregates. In addition to this imbalance, UV rays also induce elafin synthesis by fibroblasts...
May 2018: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Derya Algul, Gulengul Duman, Samet Ozdemir, Ebru Turkoz Acar, Gulgun Yener
Encapsulation of active agents in solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) is an alternative to other controlled release systems for topical delivery. In this study, caffeine was encapsulated in SLNs to produce a delivery system with controlled release. Caffeine-loaded SLNs (Caf-SLNs) were prepared using the double emulsion method with homogenization and ultrasonication. The characterization studies were performed using dynamic light scattering (DLS), zeta potential, scanning electron microscopy (SEM), and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) analyses...
May 2018: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Sheng-Ching Chan, Youk-Meng Choong, Shun-Hsiang Weng
Safrole is a well-known carcinogenic agent that is present in camphor trees. In this study, a gas chromatographic method was established to quantitate the levels of safrole in essential oils using n-decyl alcohol as an internal standard. The method used a nonpolar column and was able to detect concentrations of safrole as low as 5 µg/ml in the samples. Following addition of 2-10 mg of safrole into 1 g of essential oil extracted from Stout Camphor wood ( Cinnamomum kanehirai Hayata) or 1-10 mg of safrole into 1 g of essential oil extracted from Small-flower Camphor wood ( Cinnamomum micranthum Hayat), the recovery rates of safrole were determined...
March 2018: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Marc N G de Mul, Tanya Uddin, Xi Yan, Amber Hubschmitt, Björn Klotz, Wendy Kin Man Chan
Many cosmetic polymers shrink on drying, producing a tensile force if coated on a substrate. This tensile force can be used to smoothen wrinkles and pores in facial skin. In this study, we evaluated two polymers, a polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and a polyacrylate, for skin tightening properties. We conducted a double-blinded, placebo-controlled and randomized clinical study with 32 female volunteers aged 35-65 years who perceived themselves to have a loss of skin elasticity. Both polymers were formulated in a model cosmetic emulsion with hydrogenated polyisobutene as the oil phase...
March 2018: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Maki Fukuda, Yuki Marubashi, Teppei Nawa, Reina Ikuyama
It has been experimentally shown that hair subjected to permanent wave treatment quickly changes into uncurled hair during daily hair-care activities. However, the mechanism of curl fallout has not been clarified. In previous studies, the relationship between permanent wave treatment and disulfide bonds in hair has been studied. Because permed hair falls out its waves without any chemical treatment, we focused on the hair microstructure rather than the disulfide bonds. To examine the relationship between the hair curl shape and the intermediate filament (IF) organization in hairs, scanning microbeam small-angle X-ray scattering measurements were performed...
March 2018: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Mariam Eid Alanzi, Riyadh A Alghamdi, Osama Mohammed Alsharif, Khaled S Alghamdi, Salah Mohammed El Sayed
We aimed at investigating the cosmetic interests, public confidence in cosmetic industry, health knowledge, practice, and need for health education regarding using topical bleaching agents (TPAs) among a relatively big sample size in Al-Madinah (west Saudi Arabia, a conservative eastern society that acquires its social customs from Islam). Islamic values increased women respect and esteem in this society. This is reflected on cosmetic practices and attitude, e.g. women use face cover outdoors. This issue is vital for both women health and beauty, and is rarely discussed...
March 2018: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Gabriella Baki, Mihaly Szoboszlai, Matthew W Liberatore, Mark Chandler
The sales potential of cosmetic products is greatly determined by skin feel and skin sensory performance. To please the target audience, it is important to gather information about consumers' perception of products' sensory characteristics. In this study, six different emulsions were formulated. Samples represented three different types of emulsions, including steric-stabilized oil-in-water (O/W), liquid crystal-stabilized O/W, and water-in-oil emulsions, providing different skin feel and aesthetics. Emulsions within the same group differed in the emollients, providing similar sensory attributes...
March 2018: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Yanan Li, Zhaoqing Zhou, Xiaomin Zhao, Hua Zhao, Xin Qu
Hydrophilic polymers are widely used in the cosmetics industry as thickening agents/rheology modifiers. These thickening agents have different chemical structures which affect the rheological properties, as well as the sensory attributes of the formula. Systematic study is important to determine the relationship among them. Six commonly used hydrophilic polymers, including cellulose derivatives and synthetic polymers, were used as thickening agents in a series of oil-in-water emulsions. The rheological properties were evaluated in relation to the thickening mechanism and polymer structures...
January 2018: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Xi Wang, Xiaohong Shu, Lin Zou, Zhaoxia Li, Li Li
A 12-day cumulative irritancy patch test is available for predicting skin irritation potential. This study is important to determine the ideal patch type to be used in the irritancy patch test. This study was conducted to determine the cumulative skin irritation potential of five different patch types using predictive patch test techniques. Five types of patches were tested in a 12 day repeated insult test. The patch types were Hill Top Chamber occlusive, Finn Chamber occlusive, Band-Aid semiocclusive, Webril® semiocclusive, and Webril® occlusive...
January 2018: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Neena Philips, Jovinna Chalensouk-Khaosaat, Salvador Gonzalez
Skin aging/photoaging is associated with altered the structure of collagen and elastin fibers, and increased activity of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP) and elastase. Nicotinamide and its derivatives, 2,6-dihydroxynicotinamide, 2,4,5,6-tetrahydroxynicotinamide, and 3-hydroxypicolinamide (collectively niacin derivatives) stimulate fibrillar collagen and heat shock proteins in dermal fibroblasts. The goal of this research was to extend the understanding of the anti-skin aging mechanism of these niacin derivatives through the stimulation of elastin (at the protein and promoter levels), fibrillin (1 and 2) in nonirradiated or ultraviolet (UVA) radiated dermal fibroblasts, and through the direct inhibition of MMP (1, 3, and 9) and elastase activities...
January 2018: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Youjun Yang, Donald J English
The present study reports the effects of adding L-glutamic acid to a new enrichment broth designated as R-TATP broth, to promote the growth of slow-growing mold microorganisms such as Aspergillus brasiliensis and Aspergillus oryzae , without interfering in the growth of other types of microorganisms. This L-glutamic acid containing enrichment broth would be particularly valuable in a rapid microbial detection assay such as an adenosine triphosphate (ATP) bioluminescence assay. By using this new enrichment broth, the amount of ATP (represented as relative light unit ratio after normalized with the negative test control) from mold growth was significantly increased by reducing the time of detection of microbial contamination in a raw ingredient or personal care product formulation from an incubation period of 48-18 h...
January 2018: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Asao Yamauchi, Kiyoshi Yamauchi
Asian scalp hair fibers were made thin by treatment with papain or sliced along the longitudinal axis or randomly cut by mechanical means. Optical microscopic observations of the resulting specimens indicated that (i) the medulla (M) consisted of two types of the M-surrounding cells which were linearly linked one another to form a tubular structure running through the fiber and (ii) the drum-shaped vesicles containing small proteinous granules were neatly or sparsely stored within the tube. On the other hand, H+ and OH- ions were able to move spontaneously from one end to another through the M tube...
January 2018: Journal of Cosmetic Science
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