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Journal of Cosmetic Science

Yanan Li, Zhaoqing Zhou, Xiaomin Zhao, Hua Zhao, Xin Qu
Hydrophilic polymers are widely used in the cosmetics industry as thickening agents/rheology modifiers. These thickening agents have different chemical structures which affect the rheological properties, as well as the sensory attributes of the formula. Systematic study is important to determine the relationship among them. Six commonly used hydrophilic polymers, including cellulose derivatives and synthetic polymers, were used as thickening agents in a series of oil-in-water emulsions. The rheological properties were evaluated in relation to the thickening mechanism and polymer structures...
January 2018: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Xi Wang, Xiaohong Shu, Lin Zou, Zhaoxia Li, Li Li
A 12-day cumulative irritancy patch test is available for predicting skin irritation potential. This study is important to determine the ideal patch type to be used in the irritancy patch test. This study was conducted to determine the cumulative skin irritation potential of five different patch types using predictive patch test techniques. Five types of patches were tested in a 12 day repeated insult test. The patch types were Hill Top Chamber occlusive, Finn Chamber occlusive, Band-Aid semiocclusive, Webril® semiocclusive, and Webril® occlusive...
January 2018: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Neena Philips, Jovinna Chalensouk-Khaosaat, Salvador Gonzalez
Skin aging/photoaging is associated with altered the structure of collagen and elastin fibers, and increased activity of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP) and elastase. Nicotinamide and its derivatives, 2,6-dihydroxynicotinamide, 2,4,5,6-tetrahydroxynicotinamide, and 3-hydroxypicolinamide (collectively niacin derivatives) stimulate fibrillar collagen and heat shock proteins in dermal fibroblasts. The goal of this research was to extend the understanding of the anti-skin aging mechanism of these niacin derivatives through the stimulation of elastin (at the protein and promoter levels), fibrillin (1 and 2) in nonirradiated or ultraviolet (UVA) radiated dermal fibroblasts, and through the direct inhibition of MMP (1, 3, and 9) and elastase activities...
January 2018: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Youjun Yang, Donald J English
The present study reports the effects of adding L-glutamic acid to a new enrichment broth designated as R-TATP broth, to promote the growth of slow-growing mold microorganisms such as Aspergillus brasiliensis and Aspergillus oryzae , without interfering in the growth of other types of microorganisms. This L-glutamic acid containing enrichment broth would be particularly valuable in a rapid microbial detection assay such as an adenosine triphosphate (ATP) bioluminescence assay. By using this new enrichment broth, the amount of ATP (represented as relative light unit ratio after normalized with the negative test control) from mold growth was significantly increased by reducing the time of detection of microbial contamination in a raw ingredient or personal care product formulation from an incubation period of 48-18 h...
January 2018: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Asao Yamauchi, Kiyoshi Yamauchi
Asian scalp hair fibers were made thin by treatment with papain or sliced along the longitudinal axis or randomly cut by mechanical means. Optical microscopic observations of the resulting specimens indicated that (i) the medulla (M) consisted of two types of the M-surrounding cells which were linearly linked one another to form a tubular structure running through the fiber and (ii) the drum-shaped vesicles containing small proteinous granules were neatly or sparsely stored within the tube. On the other hand, H+ and OH- ions were able to move spontaneously from one end to another through the M tube...
January 2018: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Jiuai Sun
This paper describes experimental evaluations of an optical scanning device for skin surface recovery using multiple light source photometric stereo method. The portable optical device based on the principle of six-light photometric stereo was developed and subjected to evaluation and advancement through clinical trials for the purpose of monitoring skin conditions. As the device can provide objective topographic data for the description of the skin surface condition, the evaluation processes are mainly applied on skin in vitro and in vivo and compared with a commercial product, PRIMOS, which has been so far considered as a standard device used for skin surface measurement...
January 2018: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Stephanie Nisbet
Data were generated from three studies to assess the tolerability and acceptability of a prototype cosmetic lip balm. Dermatological assessments of topical compatibility (primary and cumulative irritability and sensitization), photoirritant and topical photosensitizer potential, and acceptability for safe use of a prototype cosmetic lip balm on sensitive skin are summarized. In Study 1, the product was applied to the volunteers' backs under a semiocclusive patch followed by patch removal/reapplication over 6 weeks to assess the irritant and allergic potential of the product...
January 2018: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Paolo Giacomoni
No abstract text is available yet for this article.
July 2017: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Da Eun Lee, Jeong Eun Kwon, Eui Su Choung, Sung Ryul Lee, Se Chan Kang
Sorghum [ Sorghum bicolor (L.) Moench] is a major cereal crop. Despite the wide cultivation of sorghum, its stalks are used as hay and silage. The plant has numerous bioactive compounds including cosmeceutical ingredients. Thus, we investigated the antimelanogenic and SSE that is prepared from the stalk of Sorghum bicolor L. (SSE) after ethanol (EtOH) extraction. Based on the antioxidant capacity, antityrosinase activity, and suppression of the protein expression levels of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1, -2, and -3 in human neonatal foreskin HDF-N cells, a 50% EtOH extraction of SSEs showed antimelanogenic and antiwrinkle potential...
July 2017: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Jutatip Kwankaew, Preeyawass Phimnuan, Sombat Wanauppathamkul, Jarupa Viyoch
Artocarpus altilis heartwood extract contains the bioactive compound artocarpin which exhibits melanogenesis inhibitory activity. However, the extract has poor solubility which affects the skin permeability of the compound. A chitosan hydrogel patch incorporating A. altilis heartwood extract was formulated to enhance the delivery of an amount of artocarpin sufficient for depigmenting the skin. The extract was prepared as an o/w microemulsion before blending with an aqueous solution of chitosan. The hydrogel patch was formulated by blending in a 1:1 ratio by weight of 4% w/w chitosan solution and 0...
July 2017: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Craig Weiss, Michael Caswell
There are currently two methods to evaluate comedogenecity. One is the inexpensive human model developed by Mills and Kligman and modified by others. The second is the more costly human clinical trial, which is the gold standard for comedogenesis and to which the human model is compared. The qualification of each method to support the comedogenecity claim is evaluated and contrasted.
July 2017: Journal of Cosmetic Science
So Y Lee, Si Y Lee
As soon as they are exposed to the environment, cosmetics become contaminated with microorganisms, and this contamination accumulates with increased use. In this study, we employed pyrosequencing to investigate the diversity of bacteria found on lipstick. Bacterial DNA was extracted from 20 lipstick samples and mixed in equal ratios for pyrosequencing analysis. As a result, 105 bacterial genera were detected, four of which ( Leifsonia , Methylobacterium , Streptococcus , and Haemophilus ) were predominant in 92% of the 19,863 total sequence reads...
July 2017: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Alexandra Westfall, Mónica Giusti
Cosmetics, such as lipstick, can affect an individual's perception of attractiveness and morale. Consumer concern with the safety of synthetic colorants has made the need for alternative natural color sources increasingly urgent. Our goal was to evaluate the feasibility of anthocyanin (ACN) extracts as colorants in lipstick formulations. Lipstick formulations were colored with ACN-rich materials. Accelerated environmental testing typical of the cosmetic industry were used: incubation at 20°, 37°, and 45°C for 12 weeks and temperature abuse cycles between 20°/37°C or -20°/20°C...
May 2017: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Nicole Mccardy, Ryan Thompson, Matthew Miller, Peter Styczynski, Stephanie Ventura, Robert Glenn, Gerald B Kasting
Mixed surfactant and surfactant-polymer compositions have been reported to decrease surfactant deposition onto and penetration into the skin relative to single surfactant compositions, potentially improving the mildness of the product. Previous workers in this area [see Moore et al., J. Cosmet. Sci. 54 :29-46 (2003), and subsequent publications] employed a procedure in which excised porcine skin was exposed to a surfactant solution containing radiolabeled sodium dodecyl sulfate (14 C-SDS) for 5 h. We have developed an improved SDS penetration assay using excised human skin that reflects typical consumer exposure times for rinse-off products...
May 2017: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Peili Gong, Nan Wang, Lei Guan, Wei Lai
The aim of these two clinical studies was to evaluate the sensory characteristics and irritation potential of a prototype disinfectant spray (containing 0.13% w/v benzalkonium chloride and a cooling agent) in subjects with experimental wounds. The pilot study was a single center, "replicated latinClinicalTrials.ClinicalTrials. square design," randomized and double-blinded study. The pivotal study was a single center, randomized, controlled, crossover, double-blinded study, following a direct comparison test design of the study products...
May 2017: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Di Qu, Dawna Venzon, Mary Murray, Mathew Depauw
Using skin autofluorescence (SAF) as a marker of advanced glycation end-products (AGEs) has been extensively studied in the last decade since the introduction of the noninvasive in vivo measurement technique. Data have shown the level of skin AGEs increases with chronological age in healthy human beings, and this increase is substantially higher in age-matched diabetic patients. In skin research, glycation with the accompanying accumulation of skin AGEs has been regarded as one of the primary skin aging mechanisms that contribute to skin wrinkling and the loss of skin elasticity...
May 2017: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Philippe Mondon, Roberto Dal Toso, Caroline Ringenbach, Laurent LavaissiÈre, Emmanuel Doridot, Émilie Ouvrat, Sandra Brahimi
Skin produces sebum through sebocytes. Hyper-seborrhea creates conditions for the development of inflamed cutaneous alterations through bacteria colonization triggering dead cell accumulation and pro-inflammatory mediator release. Study of sebum production, its modulation, and its consequences requires complementary in vitro models in order to evaluate the effect of molecules on cell metabolisms. Clinical studies need to be performed to confirm in vitro results. Effects of phenylpropanoids, obtained by elicitation and purification from plant cell culture of Syringa vulgaris (CCSV), were studied on sebocytes, keratinocytes, and explants, all derived from normal human skins...
March 2017: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Franz J Wortmann, Gabriele Wortmann, Hans-Martin Haake, Wolf Eisfeld
Torsional analysis of single human hairs is especially suited to determine the properties of the cuticle and its changes through cosmetic processing. The two primary parameters, which are obtained by free torsional oscillation using the torsional pendulum method, are storage ( G ') and loss modulus ( G ″). Based on previous work on G ', the current investigation focuses on G ″. The results show an increase of G ″ with a drop of G ' and vice versa , as is expected for a viscoelastic material well below its glass transition...
March 2017: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Fan C Wang, Alejandro G Marangoni
A petroleum-free skin cream was developed using food-grade ingredients. The rheological and sensorial properties of this petroleum-free skin cream were compared to a commercially available petroleum-based skin cream. Specifically, large-amplitude oscillatory shear (LAOS) characterization of the two skin creams was performed. The petroleum-free skin cream showed similar linear and nonlinear viscoelastic rheological properties, comparable skin hydration functions, and consumer acceptance as the commercially available skin cream...
March 2017: Journal of Cosmetic Science
Paulina Malinowska, Anna Gliszczyńska-Świgło, Henryk Szymusiak
Cosmetic emulsions containing plant extracts should be tested in a range of temperatures from 5°C to 40°C to be sure that they will be stable during general use by consumers and that plant extracts used as antioxidants do not accelerate oxidative degradation of their oil base. The oxidative stability of argan oil-in-water emulsions containing 1% and 5% commercial acerola, willow, and rose extracts [or 0.01% butylhydroxytoluene (BHT)], stored at 5°C and 20°C for 6 months and at 40°C for 4 weeks, was monitored by the determination of peroxide content...
March 2017: Journal of Cosmetic Science
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